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Need point gaping help!
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My question is after loosening screw that arrow is pointing to, do I shove points back against the little rod coming from engine and then gap the points or pull points forward away from the rod and then set the gap? Actually according to the manual, after I figure this question out, I then rotate engine by hand until points open up to their max and then set the gap at .020. I do not have a timing gun by the way, and they call this static timing. Is there a good video on this procedure?
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Not a video, but this should help.
http://www.mgonitzke.net/cubcadet/to...tic_timing.pdf |
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On my K301, on the opposite side of the engine , in the tin, is a "window" about the size of a nickel. Looking thru there you should see a letter ( I think it's "S" ). As it comes into view, the points should open fully. That is where you set the gap.
I added a couple arrows to your picture. Slightly loosen the screw ( just so it's still against the plate ) and stick a screw driver into where the red arrow is. Pivot the breaker plate ( green arrow ) to get the correct gap. Then tighten the screw and double check the gap. |
So step by step it should go. And this is with the screw tight at start?
Put the S in the window. Then slightly loosen screw. Put screwdriver in slot to open gap. Set gap at .020 for starters? So it doesn't matter if points are shoved back against that rod at start or pulled forward from rod? |
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Loosen the screw just enough to get the plate to move with the screwdriver. Set and retighten. |
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Look in the tech section under "tech tips". There'd a write up in there. Easier than Matt Gs explanation.
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Ok. I still need to know when starting procedure does the points need to be shoved back touching the rod coming from engine or pulled back not touching it? I would think it makes a difference?
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Got a weak yellow spark at the points? Won't start? |
Start with this. Point gap will vary. This is how I set mine.
http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ghlight=Static |
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Heck with points. Heres whatchya do...
You will need 480 3phase for this 1. Hook line 1 to the block. Hook line 2 to the spark plug Hook the wild leg to the negative side of your coil. Turn the key to "On" Throw the disconnect and it will run like a streak of lighting. If that doesn't work i have no idea what will:bigthink: |
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Points
COINMAN66 I am not the expert here but yes you will have spark as points open and close with key on and no you do not have to push or pull any thing just rotate engine [with key off ] till points gap is greatest adjust to 0.20 this is close enough that engine will run unless you have other problems. GOOD LUCK!!! CURT
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Thanks all. I got her running again! Appreciate all the help! Except, seems like it gets hot and when I shut it off it backfired a little. During restoration maybe I shouldn't have painted cooling fins on top of engine head?
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Thanks |
You don't need a timing light. Just a test light. You can get them at Wal-Mart for a couple bucks. Part stores have them too.
You aren't far. Let me know if you ever want to come down. I'll fix you right up! :beerchug: |
Having spark at the points is not a "wrong thing" there is spark at the points, granted it isn't the spark that you are looking for, but never-the-less it is there.
I'm not sure why anyone would ever tell anyone else that there is no spark at the points. Pull the cover off of the points, turn the key on, push the points open and the points WILL spark, start the engine in the dark, there will be a steady flow of spark until you shut it off. I can not emphasize enough that you are setting the timing, not gaping the points! It doesn't matter if the points open .20" or a foot and a half, it is all about WHEN the spark happens. At the exact instant that the two little disks on the point-set lose contact is when the spark occurs. Ultimately, what you want is for the points to just break contact (and cause spark) when the "S" is in the middle of the afore mentioned hole in the fan shroud. Now, go get a 12 volt test light, hook the clip to the negative side of the coil and position the pointed end (with the light in it) so that the light will shine in the hole when it comes on (I put some tape on one side of the light so that the light doesn't shine in my eyes and into the hole at the same time). Turn the key on, touch the pointed end to the engine block and turn the crankshaft (normal operating direction) until the light comes on, look in the hole and the "S" should be centered in the hole. If it is not, adjust the points again. If the "S" is already past the hole, close the gap a little to make them loose contact sooner. If the "S" isn't to the hole yet, open the gap a little to make them open a little later. When the "S" is exactly centered in the hole at the exact instant the light comes on, tighten the screw and check it again. When the "S" is in the hole at the exact instant the light comes on WITH the screw tight, then you are finished! |
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