Model 100 refurb
 

I've finally begun tearing down my 100 to repaint and rewire it. The engine (K301) may get rebuilt as well since it smokes a little at startup and has a slight knock when under a moderate load. I already have a set of Maple-Hunter decals I bought about 5 yrs ago when I originally planned to paint it. It needs a new hood and there are a few extra holes in the tower that need welded shut. I don't plan for this to be as thorough, or time consuming, of a repaint as my red 129 since the 100 will retain the factory paint scheme.

On to the before and current progress pics.

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Let the fun begin.:beerchug:
What brand are those front tires?:bigthink:

They are Carlisle Field Trax. They discontinued the 16/6.5/8 size about the time I bought them.

Looking forward to watching your progress.

Got the engine pulled and started disassembly so that I can measure the bore and rod journal to see what piston and rod I'll need for the rebuild.

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There was quite a bit of carbon around the valves and spark plug which I expected since it was using about 6 oz of oil per hour of run time. The top of the piston and bottom of the head were covered in oil.

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The piston is definitely in need of replacement going by the wear near the exhaust valve.

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The ring end gap checks .070" which seams excessive.

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she runnin a little lean at some point??... tractor is in really good shape though for its age... some one took care of it... glad to see her get treated right.. knowing your stuff, im sure its gonna be sweet...

My dad bought the tractor around 1980 and it's never sat outside since. Part of it has been repainted before because there is paint flaking off of the tower and the original paint underneath is in better shape.

Looked up the specs for the engine and the ring end gap is supposed to be .010"-.020" new and .030" max so it is definitely worn out.

I may not be rebuilding my K301 after all. A friend offered to sell me his 149 for a good price. He was told by a guy we work with that it was rebuilt with a Kohler piston and rod and only has about 50 hrs on it. He hasn't had it running though since the S/G is bad. I might take my S/G over to his house and see if I can get it running and buy it. Then, I'll either paint the engine red to drop into my 129 to make it a 149 again or put the K321 in my 100.

I'd put the 14in the 100, should make one heck of a plow tractor. I'm about to get a 14hp to put in my 108.

Adam I love the hydraulics. Not sure how I missed that thread of yours if you did one. Is that a regular Saginaw style pump?

Thanks Alvy. It is an early '70s GM pump. There is a thread in the Customized Cubs section titled "Custom hydraulics on 100".

Finished tearing down the engine today. The rod journal on the crank is only out of spec by .0005" so I plan on just polishing it and stay with a standard rod. I haven't measured the bore yet but it has ridges worn at the top and bottom so it most likely will have to be bored.

Got a little work done on the tractor tonight. Pulled off the weights and tires, pulled out the mess of a wiring harness, and got measurements to make a guard for the left side of the tunnel to cover the lift cylinder and hoses.

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Got a Stens overhaul kit ordered today and a guy at work has agreed to bore the cylinder for me. I would bore it but I don't have access to a machine to do it myself. Should have the engine back together in a couple weeks.

That's fantastic! Looking forward to seeing your progress:beerchug:

What are the hydraulic lines on the front for? Just asking

That's for the angle cylinder on my front blade.

It's now been reduced to a pile of pieces.

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Next up; degreaser, then paint stripper, then sandblaster and sand paper, then primer and paint.

Still need to find a good hood since the one I have has several extra holes and a rigged up brace bolted in. Need to visit the local GT scrapyard or try to find one at the Portland show in August.

Got everything degreased yesterday. Today, I attacked the frame with paint stripper and got it ready to sandblast.

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Pulled the axle tubes off to clean out the sludge that had collected in the tubes. While the tubes are off I drilled drain-back holes from the axle tubes into the rearend and I'm going to bore out the tubes to replace the axle bushings with needle bearings. It will also get new axle seals.

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Very cool to see the work you do. I never considered adding drain back holes for the axle tubes. That's a great idea. So, the stock axles are hard enough to run with needle bearings? Or do you need to case-harden them where the bearing runs?

The axle tubes hold quite a bit of oil that doesn't get drained with the rest of the oil, therefore I added the drain holes.

The later Cubs did use needle bearings and all the info I can find says that they used the same axles so they must be hard enough. They constantly run in oil at low speeds so I think they'll be ok. If I knew what kind of steel the axles are made of, I would flame harden the area where the bearing rides.

I got one of the axle tubes bored out today and ordered new axle seals.

Picked up my engine rebuild kit today so I can now get the cylinder bored.

Nice work, I always do the drain holes on the aluminum rears when I have them apart. :beerchug:

.0005" is the max out of round. I'd grind that crank. If not, you'll wish you did in a few years. Not likely right away..... but in a few years.



Looking good Adam!! :beerchug:

Looking good... I hold a special place in my heart for a 100... Learned to drive Dads when I was 4 years old circa 1975. wish we still had it! Keep the pictures coming!

Checked the cylinder head and found it was warped .010" so I milled .030" off to flatten it and bump up the compression a little.

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Got the engine tins stripped.

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Pressed in the axle bearings and new seals. Found a Stens seal that fits perfect. Has the spring on the back side just like the factory seals.

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Had some gasket material so I made axle tube and rear cover gaskets. Need more material so I can make a shifter gasket.

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Got a chuckle when I opened the box of the new piston and found this.

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Bill's Motor World? :biggrin2:

Adam you're coming right a long. I like your work as usual. Question, are you sure those ridges will clean out with just a .010" over job and piston?

The bore checks .003 over at the biggest spot. It will be fine.

Started putting the rearend back together. Scraped some loose paint.

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Stripped some paint off of the tower.

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Got the cylinder bored last week. Plan to hone it tomorrow. Tonight, I hit the paint with stripper and did a little port work to get rid of some ridges and rough spots. I also radiused the edges of the valve pockets to smooth the flow towards the cylinder.

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Adam

Nice work on all the small details... great pics too.. I enjoy following threads like this.. keeps me motivated on my projects!

Thanks Jay.

I got the cylinder honed and lapped the new valves. Picked up a carb rebuild kit today. Going to make a new throttle shaft as it has .005" wear at the top.

I hope you ground the seats..... they need it.

Seats didn't need ground. Exhaust valve seat looks rough in the pics but it was actually just carbon build up.

If you put new valves in they did. It's your engine, you can do it however you want, but they needed ground.

Everything is stripped except for the back side of the hood. I'll pick up some Black Diamond to blast the bigger pieces outside. The small parts will get blasted in the cabinet. Plan on going with Vansickle paint this time. I wasn't crazy about the Majik paint I used on my 129/149.

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The engine is almost ready for paint. Need to strip the oil pan and clean up the tins.

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Nice as always Adam. It looks like you're using a chemical stripper for some of those parts? Tail strip?

Coming right along..... Looking forward to the paint:beerchug: