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smithencrazy 06-07-2015 08:42 PM

1650 issues
 
Hi everyone,
I am new to the forum and have been trying to figure out an issue I am having with my 1650. I bought it last year at an estate sale and at the time just needed the carb rebuild. It ran great all last year and fired up pretty good this spring when i took it out of the shed about a month ago.
Well when i was mowing, the grass and leaves built up in the deck and it locked the blades up and caused it to stall out (I know not smart). Well now it idles a little ok but when i turn the throttle up it spits and sputters and dies on me. I've already changed out the headgasket but that obviously didnt fix the problem. Any help is appreciated!

Jeff in Pa 06-07-2015 08:49 PM

Welcome to OCC :beerchug:

Do you use any fuel stabilizer or add MMO ( marvel mystery oil ) to your fuel?

Sounds like it may be a fuel issue due to clogged passage ways in the carb. Is your air filter clean?

BIGMOZEKE 06-07-2015 09:04 PM

Fuel system cleaning should be the first order of things with an old tractor.
Learned this the hard way, clean out EVERYTHING and make sure that it is clean, the make sure none of the 'gism' is left in your float bowl then start from there. When I get an old one, I flush the tank, replace the lines, filter etc. and then see what comes up.

smithencrazy 06-07-2015 09:10 PM

I tore apart the carb again thinking maybe that was one of the issues but it was clean as is the gas coming out of the tank. Ive adjusted the carb every which way too.

smithencrazy 06-07-2015 09:11 PM

Sorry i also put in stabile with the fuel too.

Jeff in Pa 06-07-2015 09:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by smithencrazy (Post 332344)
I tore apart the carb again thinking maybe that was one of the issues but it was clean as is the gas coming out of the tank. Ive adjusted the carb every which way too.

Did you blow compressed air thru the passages and use carb cleaner?

I highly recommend Berkebile 2+2 Gum Cutter. Nothing I've found works better for cleaning carbs.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v7...F.jpg~original

jimbob200521 06-07-2015 09:48 PM

Clean your fuel system (lines, tank, rebuild carb, replace fuel filter) and if that does my do it then check your points timing. But my money is on fuel system.

j4c11 06-07-2015 09:52 PM

I just want to make sure I'm understanding this correctly as far as timeline, are you saying that the engine ran great, then the stalling incident occurred, and then immediately after it started having issues? That would indicate to me a relationship of direct causality between the stalling and the subsequent issues, and I would be skeptical of carb issues because I'm not sure how the engine stalling would cause the carb to suddenly clog. Or did the engine stall, run ok for a couple more days/weeks and then it started having issues?

smithencrazy 06-07-2015 10:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by j4c11 (Post 332350)
I just want to make sure I'm understanding this correctly as far as timeline, are you saying that the engine ran great, then the stalling incident occurred, and then immediately after it started having issues? That would indicate to me a relationship of direct causality between the stalling and the subsequent issues, and I would be skeptical of carb issues because I'm not sure how the engine stalling would cause the carb to suddenly clog. Or did the engine stall, run ok for a couple more days/weeks and then it started having issues?

It was running fine until the blades locked up. As soon as that happened thats when the engine started this issue.

Yosemite Sam 06-07-2015 11:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by smithencrazy (Post 332363)
It was running fine until the blades locked up. As soon as that happened thats when the engine started this issue.

If it happened just this way, I would check to see if the belts are still in all of the pulleys as they should be. Then check the timing.

J-Mech 06-07-2015 11:48 PM

You haven't given enough info for us to really help you.

So, you previously cleaned the fuel system. Got that.

Have you tuned it up? ..... ever? If not, that would be a good place to start.

Help us out. What have you checked/tried?

cowdiddly 06-07-2015 11:54 PM

Well to me it sounds like bad condenser or maybe pitted points. I have found that about 60% of most peoples carburetor issues are electrical.

J-Mech 06-08-2015 12:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cowdiddly (Post 332375)
Well to me it sounds like bad condenser or maybe pitted points. I have found that about 60% of most peoples carburetor issues are electrical.

I agree, but wasn't ready to place my money on a bad condenser just yet. I do think you are correct though, that's where I'm leaning. :beerchug:

bocephus1991 06-08-2015 12:16 AM

Interesting side note. My 1211 went and got from my dad was popping and miss firing running like crap. Has spark checked timing all good. Went to unbolt the condenser and the wire fell out of it! Put new one and runs like a top! Had another strange occurance the other day with my 1200 I'll have to post that tomorrow.

smithencrazy 06-08-2015 06:00 AM

I checked the points and changed the spark plug. Like i said it ran great up until the blades locked up and it stalled out. As soon as this happened was when it started sputtering and back firing and then die.

ol'George 06-08-2015 07:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bocephus1991 (Post 332377)
Interesting side note. My 1211 went and got from my dad was popping and miss firing running like crap. Has spark checked timing all good. Went to unbolt the condenser and the wire fell out of it! Put new one and runs like a top! Had another strange occurance the other day with my 1200 I'll have to post that tomorrow.

Your not the first to experience this, the condenser wire fell out of my sons 149
he had chased that gremlin half a season.:bigthink:

j4c11 06-08-2015 08:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cowdiddly (Post 332375)
Well to me it sounds like bad condenser or maybe pitted points. I have found that about 60% of most peoples carburetor issues are electrical.

I have found that 62% of people posting answers don't even bother to read the initial question in it's entirety. I have also found that 90% of all statistics are made up on the spot :biggrin2:

Seriously, the OP indicated the engine issues started immediately after the engine stalled due to a clogged deck. How would a stalled engine cause the condenser to suddenly go bad or the points to suddenly become pitted :Huh:

ol'George 06-08-2015 09:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by j4c11 (Post 332396)
I have found that 62% of people posting answers don't even bother to read the initial question in it's entirety. I have also found that 90% of all statistics are made up on the spot :biggrin2:

Seriously, the OP indicated the engine issues started immediately after the engine stalled due to a clogged deck. How would a stalled engine cause the condenser to suddenly go bad or the points to suddenly become pitted :Huh:

Because the condenser wire possibly was broken, making a intermittent connection and the sudden jerk/movement of deck hanging up could dislodged the wire.
In my sons case, he decided to remove the condenser to bring it to me for testing on my 75 year old vacuum tube condenser tester, and thus found the wire broken off only sticking in the hole in the condenser.
As far as the points going bad, it is usually a gradual process or something got disturbed by an incident.
We can only guess.

cowdiddly 06-08-2015 09:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by j4c11 (Post 332396)
I have found that 62% of people posting answers don't even bother to read the initial question in it's entirety. I have also found that 90% of all statistics are made up on the spot :biggrin2:

Seriously, the OP indicated the engine issues started immediately after the engine stalled due to a clogged deck. How would a stalled engine cause the condenser to suddenly go bad or the points to suddenly become pitted :Huh:

I read the posting. An engine that runs good at low idle but starts sputtering as the engine revs often has a bad condenser. It could be alot of things with the amount of info given.

And I have found about 50 percent of people that hang around boards do not offer any usable help at all and just go around being a wise acre. So guru what do you suggest? A clogged deck moved the high idle screw? I am just trying to help the guy, what are you trying to do?

The 60% number was an estimate of the times people bring me a bad running engine wanting carb work and there problem many times is electrical. Everyone hears an engine sputter and immediately go straight to the carb. He said he already cleaned the carb and was running fine, and rechecked it. Im just using the info at hand and yes I read well above 3rd grade level.

Here is a picture of my own engine. She don't sputter. :^)
https://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/72...538/Eyc66r.jpg

j4c11 06-08-2015 10:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cowdiddly (Post 332403)
I read the posting. An engine that runs good at low idle but starts sputtering as the engine revs often has a bad condenser. It could be alot of things with the amount of info given.

And I have found about 50 percent of people that hang around boards do not offer any usable help at all and just go around being a wise acre. So guru what do you suggest? A clogged deck moved the high idle screw? I am just trying to help the guy, what are you trying to do?

The 60% number was an estimate of the times people bring me a bad running engine wanting carb work and there problem many times is electrical. Everyone hears an engine sputter and immediately go straight to the carb. He said he already cleaned the carb and was running fine, and rechecked it. Im just using the info at hand and yes I read well above 3rd grade level.

No need to get emotional sir. I am simply stating the obvious, since it has been established that the clogged deck caused the engine to immediately go from running well to not running well, and your hypothesis is a bad condenser, the logical deduction would be that the clogged deck caused the condenser to go from good to bad. I am simply asking, how did the stalled engine cause the condenser to go bad?

I think ol'George posted a resonable explanation for that.

johncub7172 06-08-2015 12:07 PM

Trouble sometimes happens in two's and three's! Trouble even happens at the same time. :biggrin2:

I would sandblast and clean the spark plug and rest that gap to .035" . Next, measure your point gap. If its greater or less that .020", then you have a problem.

Zero out the high and low speed needles. Set the high two turns from zero, and the low one turn from zero, start your engine and call me in the morning!

Leadslingingdaddy 06-08-2015 12:18 PM

Was it a sudden stop??? Check the flywheel key...

olds45512 06-08-2015 01:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Leadslingingdaddy (Post 332410)
Was it a sudden stop??? Check the flywheel key...

A broken key on the flywheel would only stop an engine that runs off a magneto.

smithencrazy 06-08-2015 01:41 PM

I am going to recheck my points again and buy another condensor just to be sure. The condensor looked good but there cheap and I'll replace it just because. Ill also clean off my spark plug. It was looking pretty dark.

smithencrazy 06-08-2015 05:11 PM

It ended up being the condensor. Now i have to retune my carb and i should hopefully be good to go. Thanks everyone for the help. Just researching, it is weird how some electrical issues seem to be fuel problems.

cub cadet 72 guy 06-08-2015 05:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Leadslingingdaddy (Post 332410)
Was it a sudden stop??? Check the flywheel key...

I'm pretty sure those don't even have a flywheel key

olds45512 06-08-2015 05:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cub cadet 72 guy (Post 332447)
I'm pretty sure those don't even have a flywheel key

Yes they do otherwise the flywheel would just spin on the crankshaft under load.

twoton 06-08-2015 06:37 PM

Glad you got it figured out. Hope 100% of the people are feeling better now.

CubDieselFan 06-08-2015 07:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by twoton (Post 332462)
Glad you got it figured out. Hope 100% of the people are feeling better now.

:ROTF1::ROTF1::ROTF1: That is too funny.

OldSkull 06-08-2015 08:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by twoton (Post 332462)
Glad you got it figured out. Hope 100% of the people are feeling better now.

Not yet...I suggest he load the rear tires and exchange the left side one to the right side , then he should call a priest to exorcise and chased away all demons and finally he do 2 ccw turn around the Cub yelling "Allah Akbar" and if nothing explode he can start the dam thing.

PS: I wish this help! :ROTF2:

cub cadet 72 guy 06-08-2015 08:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by olds45512 (Post 332452)
Yes they do otherwise the flywheel would just spin on the crankshaft under load.

You're right, I was thinking of a different engine


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