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-   -   New head bolts K241 (https://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/showthread.php?t=38970)

Rmowl 05-17-2015 06:03 PM

New head bolts K241
 
Hi, I am in need of new head bolts I believe and can't seem to find any. I blew the head gasket on the 102 over the winter and got a new Kohler gasket and torqued it to 30 ft/lb and again after warm and in the correct sequence. Well it blew that gasket when I was plowing my mechanic buddies yard up for a new garden the other week and he said I should've gotten new head bolts. I want to get this buttoned up and sell it,Thanks

cubby102 05-17-2015 06:11 PM

Your head is probably warped. Get it flattened out at a machine shop. Only costs 10 bucks to do at the shop I go to. Or you can do it yourself. I've never had to buy new bolts and I've don't hundreds of them over the years. Don't hold me to it, but I'm pretty sure they are not torque to yield lime most automotive head bolts.

R Bedell 05-17-2015 06:14 PM

Quote:

I'm pretty sure they are not torque to yield lime most automotive head bolts.
Can you translate...?? :Huh:

cubby102 05-17-2015 06:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by R Bedell (Post 329385)
Can you translate...?? :Huh:

Reusable with nothing to worry about lol

Rmowl 05-17-2015 06:32 PM

Great thanks for quick replies. I'll take the head to machine shop when I get home. Lounging around hotel now down Spartanburg sc way. Hate to sell the thing but truck needs a new tappet cover and while I have whole front end tore apart gotta performance cam to slide in and some more air to shove down its throat, and the 102 is the least used tractor

J-Mech 05-17-2015 06:33 PM

They are just grade 8 bots. No, they are not torque to yield. Cubby102 is correct, you need to plane the head.

cubby102 05-17-2015 06:34 PM

If you really want to put new bolts in it I don't see a issue with it. I have gotten them from the hardware store in the past. I'm sure someone that has done more engines then me will chime in. But I've used grade 5 bolts when I've had to replace broke. Or rusted bolts on the heads

J-Mech 05-17-2015 06:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rmowl (Post 329387)
Great thanks for quick replies. I'll take the head to machine shop when I get home. Lounging around hotel now down Spartanburg sc way. Hate to sell the thing but truck needs a new tappet cover and while I have whole front end tore apart gotta performance cam to slide in and some more air to shove down its throat, and the 102 is the least used tractor

Did I miss something? What does your truck have to do with the cub.... :Unknown:

Rmowl 05-17-2015 06:48 PM

Ha, just so don't have to dig in pocket book too bad. Probably should've just left that out, sorry.

J-Mech 05-17-2015 06:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rmowl (Post 329394)
Ha, just so don't have to dig in pocket book too bad. Probably should've just left that out, sorry.

Sounds like a Ford. I'd sell the truck instead. :biggrin2:

Rmowl 05-17-2015 06:52 PM

Ha! No it's a cummins that happens to be wrapped in a dodge shell.

J-Mech 05-17-2015 07:02 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by Rmowl (Post 329397)
Ha! No it's a cummins that happens to be wrapped in a dodge shell.

OH! Well it's definitely a keeper then! That cover is a PITA to get too. I feel your pain. Attachment 65327

Rmowl 05-17-2015 07:09 PM

My wife supports me with my cub addiction but when I proposed the new mods for the dodge she suggested I move one and I had to agree with that. Kinda stinks but such is life, thanks for all the replies though.

Jeff in Pa 05-17-2015 09:18 PM

3 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by Rmowl (Post 329387)
Great thanks for quick replies. I'll take the head to machine shop when I get home. Lounging around hotel now down Spartanburg sc way. Hate to sell the thing but truck needs a new tappet cover and while I have whole front end tore apart gotta performance cam to slide in and some more air to shove down its throat, and the 102 is the least used tractor

You can resurface it yourself.

Here's how I do it. A piece of plywood to secure the 600 grit emery (sand ) paper, a piece of window glass, a stapler and some water.

Use a circular pattern and check often to make sure you are pressing evenly.

Jeff in Pa 05-17-2015 09:19 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Don't forget proper torque specs and correct tightening pattern too.

Rmowl 05-17-2015 10:38 PM

Jeff, thanks! That sounds like something I can do! Thanks a lot! I saw in another post some time ago your in Allentown area. I was just up that way a few wks ago en route to Milford pa area, I'd like to stop by your shop I know Lehigh valley pretty well. Im just a rambler from east tennesse that happens to live in western md now. Anyways thanks! Also I have gotten a lot of compliments on your sleeve hitch that's on the 102

Jeff in Pa 05-17-2015 10:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rmowl (Post 329436)
Jeff, thanks! That sounds like something I can do! Thanks a lot! I saw in another post some time ago your in Allentown area. I was just up that way a few wks ago en route to Milford pa area, I'd like to stop by your shop I know Lehigh valley pretty well. Im just a rambler from east tennesse that happens to live in western md now. Anyways thanks! Also I have gotten a lot of compliments on your sleeve hitch that's on the 102

It's not hard to do, just watch your patterns as you make your circular motions. Clean the paper as needed too.

Use "modern" glass that is flat ( I grew up in a house that was built in the 1840's and the glass was wavy )

Good to hear the sleeve hitch adapter gets good reviews :beerchug:

Merk 05-17-2015 11:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cubby102 (Post 329390)
If you really want to put new bolts in it I don't see a issue with it. I have gotten them from the hardware store in the past. I'm sure someone that has done more engines then me will chime in. But I've used grade 5 bolts when I've had to replace broke. Or rusted bolts on the heads

You should always replace the bolts and studs when you remove the head. The fasteners have been through heat cycles and loose their tensile strength.

Grade 5 bolts????
I hope you are kidding. My first choice is Kohler bolts and them grade 8 bolts.

cubby102 05-17-2015 11:30 PM

The grade 5s were put in almost 10 years ago and are still holding up great. Not saying it's right though maybe I just got lucky. If I ever have to pull it apart again I'll swap em out

Rmowl 06-09-2015 07:51 PM

Jeff, I resurfaced the head using your technique when I got back home and got the new gasket on. Put about an hour on it and so far so good! I briefly had it on the chopping block and my wife of all people said it was a horrible idea to get rid of it. It doesn't get many hrs put on it but don't think I could replace it. Thanks for help!

Sam Mac 06-09-2015 08:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jeff in Pa (Post 329424)
You can resurface it yourself.

Here's how I do it. A piece of plywood to secure the 600 grit emery (sand ) paper, a stapler and some water.

Use a circular pattern and check often to make sure you are pressing evenly.

Jeff

You know I agree with you almost all the time but I have to disagree with use of plywood to resurface a head. I use a piece of 3/8" thick glass under the wet dry sand paper, plywood is just to irregular to get a good flat surface. :beerchug:

timbo2 06-09-2015 09:04 PM

I like the glass under it too. I haven't used such a fine(600gr) sandpaper though, will try that.

Bob95065 06-10-2015 11:01 AM

I hung on to a cutoff when i put granite counters in my house. It's ground flat and works great for lapping heads.

Jeff in Pa 06-10-2015 09:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sam Mac (Post 332636)
Jeff

You know I agree with you almost all the time but I have to disagree with use of plywood to resurface a head. I use a piece of 3/8" thick glass under the wet dry sand paper, plywood is just to irregular to get a good flat surface. :beerchug:

My picture shows the glass window pane but I forgot to mention ( write ) it. I did edit my wording last night to include "window pane".

It is corrected now :beerchug:

Rmowl 06-10-2015 09:59 PM

Definitely used glass in the process. Back down in appomatox va but will run the 102 again some more this wknd. I was up in your neck of the woods last week in Lehigh valley, bushkill pa. Tore some brookies up on toms creek in the evenings, nice benefit of working up north. Anyways, I'm confident the repair is solid. Thanks

Roy Najecki 06-10-2015 10:48 PM

When installing the head bolts, should anti-seize be applied to them? If yes does that affect the torque setting?

timbo2 06-10-2015 10:53 PM

I just dip them in a little motor oil. I think thats what the manual says.

BassBlaster 06-10-2015 11:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Merk (Post 329440)
You should always replace the bolts and studs when you remove the head. The fasteners have been through heat cycles and loose their tensile strength.

Per the instructions that came with my head gasket set from Kohler, they said it isn't necessary to use new bolts and they don't include new bolts with the gasket kits anymore. This was a CH engine.

Merk 06-11-2015 12:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BassBlaster (Post 332818)
Per the instructions that came with my head gasket set from Kohler, they said it isn't necessary to use new bolts and they don't include new bolts with the gasket kits anymore. This was a CH engine.

The engine in question at the beginning of this topic was a K series engine. As I stated earlier it is cheap insurance regardless what the instructions that came with your head gaskets kit.

sawdustdad 06-11-2015 04:19 PM

OK, one more item not mentioned--chase the head bolt hole threads with a tap and clean out the debris before replacing the bolts/studs.


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