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How to: Install Starter/Solenoid Relay for Kohler Commands
Have a Kohler Command in your 1864, 2084, 2284, etc? Ever get the random "click" when you try to start it? Then this article is for you! Brief History/Explanation This issue can be caused by several things. First, our machines are now getting 20+ years old and through time, nature has taken its course. Connections weaken, corrosion occurs, and weak signal become present. Multiplied by the fact that our Cyclops Cubs have many safety switches between you turning the key and the tractor starting, this issue is often amplified. Also making this issue worse is a weak battery or a battery in the dead of winter not giving you its full 12.2+ volts. What happens is when you turn the key switch, the signal must travel from your key switch through several (often corroded) safety switches, many feet of wire, and finally to your starter/solenoid. This requires your battery to be at its best, which often times it may not be. By the time the voltage gets to your solenoid, it may only be 11 or even 10 volts, not always enough to do the trick. Installing this relay takes the load off of your key switch and gets you better starting capability. Parts & Tools Required This is a very simple procedure to install, and as such, you don't need many tools. I used the following: Relay kit MM510 from Farm & Fleet (this also came with all the wiring and fuses I needed) Socket wrench to connect the ground Socket wrench to connect the positive to the battery Wire strippers How to Let's get down to it. First off, I want to show you a picture of the kit I purchased. This rang in at the grand price of $8.99 + tax, so not exactly a bank breaker. http://s26.postimg.org/axv40z0cp/IMG...616_Custom.jpg Next, a picture of how this is wired up. This is fairly simple so make sure to read it and read it again so no wires get crossed. Crossed wires are a big no no! Also, please note: I color coded this diagram to the wires I chose to use. If you want to use different wires, a different fuse, different colors, whatever, feel free. This is just what I used. http://s26.postimg.org/fl162qnpl/Solenoid_Relay.jpg Open the kit and familiarize yourself with what's included. There are a few parts not needed (wires and the switch) so toss those in your "I'll use these later...for...something" box that we all know we have. First, safety: Disconnect your battery so we don't have any unwanted sparks. Next, I started by mounting the relay to the blower shroud and running the ground (yellow in my case) back to the mounting screw. Simple and clean. One down, 3 to go. Remove the blue wire from your solenoid and connect it to the 86 connector on the relay. 2 down, 2 to go. Run a wire (I used green) from 87 to the connector on the solenoid you just removed. 1 more to go. Now run a FUSED wire from 30 to a constant 12v. I used the included 15 amp fuse. Now, double and triple check your wires and when you are comfortable with the connections, reconnect your battery. Take a seat and turn your key switch to a now click free engine. I'll post a couple pics of my setup installed. I hope this is able to help some guys out there with this issue, I know I'm happy with the $10 and 20 minutes spent doing this. Enjoy guys! :beerchug: http://s26.postimg.org/o4p5e8lft/IMG...815_Custom.jpg http://s26.postimg.org/i51eal0nd/IMG...824_Custom.jpg http://s26.postimg.org/5ex5xhsp5/IMG...833_Custom.jpg |
Good write up my friend. :beerchug:
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My 1863 does this. Thanks for the info.
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:beerchug: Great job Ryan!!
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Why didn't you shorten your wires up?
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Limited time and I was out of crimp quick connects is why at this point . I'll tidy it up later :beerchug: |
I copied Ryan's first post and added it to the Technical section. It's under the sub heading "Tech Tips" in the tractor section.
http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/f...splay.php?f=59 As a note, I did make one change to the post. The fuse that you used (15A) is plenty large enough. No need to "upgrade" it to a 30A. If the solenoid ever pulled 30A you'd be in big trouble as the winding's inside it would burn first. So I left that part off. Nice write up Ryan! :ThumbsUp: |
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I write the couple how-to's that I've done (all two of them :biggrin2:) in hopes that I can give something back to the forum that's give so much to me any my hobby. Enjoy guys, I hope it can help some members out there :beerchug: I've also edited the OP in this one to reflect the 15 vs 30 amp fuse change. |
Same thing only different
Had to smile when I saw this. I rigged up something nearly identical on a NH TC33D a few years back - I also have an IHC CC 1250 I inherited from dad. I used a pushbutton supplied with power from the key switch. That way I have the OEM key switch operation or can choose the pushbutton which bypasses the safeties (oops - did I say that). That way the pushbutton won't work unless the key switch is on.
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asking for wiring help
I realize this is an old thread but I like the solenoid relay set up. I would like to do a similar set up for my Cub Cadet 2166 to add a switch and relay to the electric pto clutch but am not overly talented at wiring and am asking for help and/or diagram to wire the relay up. Thanks in advance, RP.
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I don't like to see mechanical relay mounted on a engine where the vibration is a lot more than on a chassis.
But that just my .02 :beerchug: |
I finally came across your post I could have used it a few years back I've been limping this 2284 along with the solenoid pushing forward but no turn of the Armature. After various troubleshooting I think I'm going to try your solution but there were no pictures have they been removed can you repost them by chance or send them to me?
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Back in the day, Henry Ford said don't design something to make my cars more complicated, design something to make them less complicated.
Why put a band-aid on a wound when you can heal the wound and eliminate the band-aid? Repair the problem or problems, and get on with keeping it simple. |
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You can take your Cub to a $100/hour guy at a shop and maybe spend a few hundred or you can spend $10 and fix it yourself.
I'm a cheap skate and not all that great on electrical stuff and that's why I have three Commands hot wired and another one for my neighbor!:biggrin2: |
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I have the same issue on my 2284. Based on the explanation of the cause what would the direct solution be, finding the cause of the voltage drop?
I could use the pictures also, I like the solution! :bigthink: |
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Someone recently posted a ebay venor selling a 5-pack of relays, complete with a plug and harness, all for $10. I bought the pack and this week finally installed it on my 2084. Instant satisfaction. Now I don't have to keep my engine running all day. 1864 is next.
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This is fantastic, and almost certainly what’s been ailing me..
Question though. I don’t seem able to see the pictures that are mentioned. The references to connectors 86, 87, and 30 aren’t clear to me. “Remove the blue wire from your solenoid and connect it to the 86 connector on the relay. 2 down, 2 to go. Run a wire (I used green) from 87 to the connector on the solenoid you just removed. 1 more to go. Now run a FUSED wire from 30 to a constant 12v. I used the included 15 amp fuse.“ Any insight is enormously appreciated! -Paul |
Paul reference post #14 in the thread. And substitute the word 'terminal' for 'connector', and it should make more sense.
86, 87, 30, etc are terminal locations on the relay. When you have a relay in your hand it should make more sense. |
Thanks so much SS!
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In case you weren't aware and are going to purchase a relay,
they are available with a built in fuse holder. |
Thanks Ironman!
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Just wanted to mention that we sell a plug and play kit for this problem, both for the Kohler Command and for the Kubota Gas/Diesel engines. For those of you who don't enjoy wiring:
https://solunagarage.com/shop |
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