Engine mount torque on 1200 QL
 

Good morning folks. I'm about to bolt up the 12 horse Kohler on the New ISO
mounts, Is there a Torque spec for the 4 bolts that go into the Aluminum
oil pan? All I can find in the service manual is the ISO Bolts/Nuts @ 20 ft Lbs

thanks and have a good weekend
Dave

the dealer said to 8 ft lbs mount to frame

Why is everyone always so concerned about torque? If there is no spec listed, then no need to worry. So.... no there is no spec. Just make them tight. I also suggest loctite on those bolts. If you absolutely need a spec, torque them to 20-25ftlbs. Depends on how good the aluminum is, and how long of a bolt you have. :beerchug:


I have no idea what bolt the dealer would be referring to. The bolts that run through the iso-mounts are not a torqued bolt, and on the older engines, (solid mounted) the spec would be much higher. Sounds like the dealer guessed. :bash2:

[QUOTE=J-Mech;323287]Why is everyone always so concerned about torque? If there is no spec listed, then no need to worry. So.... no there is no spec. Just make them tight. I also suggest loctite on those bolts. If you absolutely need a spec, torque them to 20-25ftlbs. Depends on how good the aluminum is, and how long of a bolt you have. :beerchug:




I have no idea what bolt the dealer would be referring to. The bolts that run through the iso-mounts are not a torqued bolt, and on the older engines, (solid mounted) the spec would be much higher. Sounds like the dealer guessed. :bash2:[/QUOTEMy At my cub cadet dealer the guy in the parts department has A 1450 cub cadet And was saying that cub cadet did a sevice bulletin on the ISO mount. I see that he's talking About the oil pan so never mind

I've read about some folks tightening them a little at a time until the least amount of vibration.

I torque the iso-mount bolts (rails to frame) to 8-10 ft lbs or until the rubber bushings bulge appropriately. Use nylock nuts so they don't come loose. Then torque the oil pan bolts to about 30 ft lbs. If it's an aluminum oil pan, don't over tighten or you risk stripping them out. I've found a bunch of aluminum oil pan bolt holes stripped out. Heli-coiled 3-4 different engines.

Tightening a little at a time is what worked very well for me after I installed new ISO-mounts and made the engine cradle modification. This plan has served me well on my 1250 Nightmare, and I continue to adjust; although almost always return them to approximately where they were.

Thus, don't be afraid to play with the tightness of the ISO-mount bolts. Ny-Lock nuts are recommended. Trial and error is a good rule for these, and they may need to wear in a little bit before you get them set where you want them. The main thing is not to have them too loose.

All the best to you and your 1200. It is a great tractor!

Best thing to do is toss the iso-mounts and throw them in the garbage can. Then, buy a set of solid engine mounts off JeffinPA and install them. No more problems...... EVER.

http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=20875

I know the poster didn't ask about it, but when he needs to what I find that works best with new ISO mounts is install them with new nylon nuts and original length bolts and leave about two threads showing on the bolts and call it good.

I left about 1/4 inch of the bolts showing above the nylock nuts, about the same as two threads...using the original bolts. But this is with the real $20/ea. IH iso mounts.

I think you are taking the correct path. Leaving two threads showing on each ISO-mount. You will need to check to see how tight each bolt is; as you use the machine and the mounts 'wear in.' Tighten the mounts as you see fit, and see what works best to eliminate as much vibration for your engine and tractor. They are all a little bit different. The genuine Cub Cadet mounts are an excellent design.

I hope you did the suggested engine cradle modification. That modification stabilizes the engine cradle. I don't think steel mounts would work as well. Steel transmits vibration and rubber absorbs it.

It seems to me that you are doing all the right things.

So all the other Cub Cadets models that have solid mounted engines aren't built as good? It seems to me that we have more issues with the rubber mounted QL motors with coming apart, breaking oil pans, losing bolts, breaking 3 pin drivers, and just generally vibrating themselves to death when the other tractors seem to be fine. I think that rubber mounted engine is the worst design ever. I have a 1050. It has a Mag 10 (basically a K241) It has a completely different engine cradle/mounting system that uses rubber. It doesn't rock, sway of move a bit. It's a much better design that what the QL's used. But, if it ever gives me any grief, it's getting solid mounted too. :biggrin2:

Hey, Jonathan, didn't they take the balance gears out of the engines when they went to the iso mounts? Perhaps that was the trade off?

I believe that is correct. I don't know when Kohler quit the balance gears.

Yes, the balance gears are heavy on one side, but they are not very large. Lots of engines have balance shafts/gears in them. I've taken them out of various engines. I can't see any difference in motors with or without them. The guys who say they can it's more than likely in their imagination. I'm sure that if you did a vibration analysis with a machine that they make a difference, but it really was more to help engine harmonics than driver comfort.

As for the QL's and their engine mounting system...... they were the only cub with that particular system. A good sign that is wasn't one of IH's best ideas.