Requesting info on upcoming split
 

I've put off repairs on my 147 long enough. I bought it in April '12 and it's time to go through it and get it to work better. More specifically, from the drive shaft back.

Currently it has a drive shaft with a plastic fan. Yes it works, but it's missing a blade, and I bought a better one in summer '13. It creeps, and it's got the typical hydro issues (slow uphill, speeds up downhill, and will go into reverse when the brake pedal is depressed.) it leaks hydro fluid, and who knows what's in the rear end. The PO had been using universal hydraulic fluid from TSC.

What I'd like to do to it:

Replace drive shaft with one that has correct metal fan. Install fan shroud (since I currently do not have one.)
Install relief valve flap. Mine is gone.


Address the trunnion. I'm sure the issues described above is because of the trunnion being worn.

Replace cork gasket. (hopefully this is the source of the leak)

Do a neutral adjust.

New fluid.
New filter.

New rag joints?

Obviously I need to do a split to make this work. I've got the service manual and have been reading up on how to do it, but I was hoping to get as much info on things to look out for, (like what typically is worn and needs addressed) and tips on a successful repair, before I go tearing into it later this spring. IE how to (have someone) weld up the trunnion without ruining the pump with too much welding heat, etc. All and anything that you'd be willing to point out that would help it go well. I feel confident enough mechanically to do the repair, but I want to make sure I know fully what I'm getting into before I actually do it.

Thanks!

Here's some info:
http://cubfaq.com/trunionrepair.html

I always put a wet rag over the shaft to keep the seal from getting hot and to keep the sparks out, but truthfully a quick buzz in each corner with a mig is all it takes. I don't think there is enough heat there to get anywhere near the shaft. I have seen pictures of the square holes that were pretty bad and did need a little more welding, but if it's that bad don't weld it all at once.

This is my stock answer for trunnion problems.

If you have or suspect that you have trunnion problems with your Cub Cadet hydro, start by going here.
http://cubfaq.com/hydrolurch.html

And then here.
http://cubfaq.com/trunionrepair.html

More information here.
http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ead.php?t=4635

There is a lot of good debate here.
http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ead.php?t=5495

After you have fixed your trunnion your forward-reverse lever and foot pedal may be out of wack, so go here.
http://cubfaq.com/neutraladjust.html

Personally, I see no need to add extra metal pieces to the square hole, unless the ends are worn crooked. I have never had this problem with any that I have fixed. So I simply weld the slots in the corners and then file them back square again.

I think someone said one of my links is dead, I don't know for sure, haven't checked them in awhile.

Yeah Daniel, it's not a big deal fixing the trunnion, hell if I could do it on nearly every tractor I own, it'll be a breeze:biggrin2: for you.
As mentioned, the amount of heat your going to use to close up the corners isn't a big deal, but for the "just in case" wrap a wet rag around the shaft and over the pump. You'll be golden:beerchug:
Oh yeah, take it from the expert, (me) do not clean out the differential with paper towel on a hydro either, it's to easy to not get every piece out, and the pickup tube frowns on that:biggrin2: Jon will get a laugh out of that:bigthink:

youll be fine, its not like tearing an automatic trans drown or anything...i used key stock on my trunnion,i like that its harder and with the extra thickness, should take 100 yrs at least to wear again....

What's up with the universal hydraulic fluid? Is there something to be worried about, I'm changing trans fluid soon and was thinking about buying it...

in my opinion theres nothing wrong with a good universal fluid, ive used it in every hydro tractor ive ever had with no problems. just make sure the fluid is none foaming and it should be fine.

OK, those were my thoughts too. $70 for 5 gal of Hy-Tran is nuts!

I don't feel like there is anything against using uni-tran myself. Why I'm replacing it is because I've never had the rear end open and I don't know whats in there. (ice, water, gunk, etc) Plus, when I refill it I can get hytran cheap(er) so that's going back in. (and it smells better.)

These are all great links and great tips. Thanks guys!

Yep, they're pretty proud of Hytran aren't they. :biggrin2:

I use Hytran, others have used universal without issues, so use what you're comfortable with. I agree with Olds on the non-foaming oil.

Do remember there are different weights of hy trans /hy guard etc. fluid, the 303 stuff TSC sells and others are heavier and not so good in winter, as they make the pump cavitate ( noisy) and it is not good on the hydro or any pump for that matter.
Just a FYI.

At work they use a NAPA brand universal hydro tranny fluid.
There are a dozen different tractor brands listed that it has been approved for use by.
Cub Cadet is listed, tomorrow I will see what CC/IH spec it has been deemed.

I like how this thread has turned into another hytran debate thread.... :bash2:

I have only done what you are going to do once but it was on a 2072. We tore it all the way down to include removing the axles and axle covers which held at least 8 ounces of water in each axle tube. We then proceeded to drill the drain holes that Sam Mac explained. If your fluid is still fluid looking you may be good but our fluid came out looking like coffee with cream added. That to me signaled that water was in the fluid hence the further teardown of axle covers.

I know a lot of people see nothing wrong with a good universal tractor fluid that supposedly meets the IH B-6 specification. Many have had great luck with it.

That isn't my luck. I use Hy-Tran. Hy-Tran works. I also use the cub Cadet filter. there are sever others out there, made by Wix, Baldwin/Hastings, and perhaps others. Be sure you have the correct hydraulic filter.

Specs covered:
JD J201, J14B
C(303) & J21A
CASE IH: HY-TRAN, JIC 143-145, MS 1204-MS1206 (HY-TRAN)
MF PERMATRAN

I took the snow fighting equipment off the 147 today, and after sinking it (and having to push it out) of my very soupy backyard because I thought a drive would be fun, I climbed under neath it and the cam plate can be moved laterally about an inch or more. :bigeyes: I'm sure that is part of the problem.

First off: He didn't ask for any help on picking fluids. So, lets stop with that discussion please. :beerchug:


Todd is correct on his advice.

No, I will never forget how we first met Todd. Even I was stumped on that deal! :ExtremeFunny:


What are you waiting for Daniel? Take the fenders off and get the rear out! :beerchug:

Got a vacation coming up next week that is going to eat up budget. I need to chip away at parts $$ so I can tackle it all at once. I'm looking forward to it.