Snow blade not going low enough?
 

Hmmm... if I put the blade all the way down, it's still 1/2" off the ground. I don't see any easy adjustment. What am I missing? The feet/shoes are off the ground too. The cam isn't touching either. Oh man, I just realized I bet it's my tri-rib tires are so tall. What can I do? Maybe a spacer plate between plow and the lift eye mount?

http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h7...psfsusxc6x.jpg

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I never tried this, but what if you remove the height adjustment cam on the side altogether? Just unscrew the knob all the way and take it out.

Loosen the 3 bolts on the blade bracket and see if it drops a little, then tighten them back up. I did this to do the opposite and get mine to lift higher.

Edit: If that doesn't do it, use a piece of chain for the lift rod temporarily. Then make a longer lift rod.

Extend the Lift Rod, or make a new one that is longer.

I'm off to the garage.... if that doesn't work, I can try spacing it up 1/2", maybe with some extra nuts for now. I don't want to make the slot longer where the raising rod goes, I think that would be too hard by hand with a grinding wheel.

I honestly do that with every manual lift that comes into my shop. They seem to have the nasty, annoying habit of coming loose and preventing my blade from lowering at the worst times. I've got a stack of 3 or 4 of those hanging on my shop wall.

I'd be careful with that. Just be watchful, that the cylinder doesn't "bottom out" too hard.

Would it make much of a difference in height if you temporarily dropped the air pressure in the tri-ribs?

I'd start with a new cutting edge.
That one looks to be about gone and soon you will be into the bolts (if not already) and the reinforcecment on the backside that they go through.

Get yourself a piece of 3/16" or better yet 1/4" X 3" flat and break out your drill press! May cost about $10 or more if Ya use new bolts, BTDT

Good Luck

PS I wouldn't screw up the original blade bracket, that one looks to be for an 82 series attatchment.

Shrewcub was right! I loosened the three main bolts on the lift eye and the blade dropped right on down. I tightened it up and it's good to go!

When the blade is all the way down, the left arm under the tractor is hitting the arm that would raise the deck. It looks like I need to bend the arm inward a little bit, but I can't do that with the blade on the tractor. Future project.

What do you mean it's an "82" attachment on the blade?

I'll add the new scraper blade to my to-do list for the tractor.

Glad that worked for you! Good luck tomorrow! :beerchug:

That really doesn't make it go much lower on a hydraulic lift.....


Do not do that.


I'll have to remember that...... I'm missing a few. :biggrin2:


You can't hurt a cylinder by bottoming it out.


They can be flipped over. That one has not been used on the top side.....


Just what he said. The lift is for the 82 series. It's a floating lift, thus the slot. Works great on manual lift machines. There is a lock that can be bolted on, that's what the two little holes are for.


Best option!
My guess is, it's a rod for a 82 series.

Interesting that my lift bracket looks different than any of the pics in this thread: http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=23018

But since my bracket looks like it has new bolts holding it on, who knows where it came from. I'm guessing the "floating" slot will work just fine. I'll know for sure in the morning!

I also have my snow chains ready to go, but I'm hoping it does just fine with just the Tru-power AG tires. Again, it's an experiment. Worse case is I head back to the garage if I spin too much and put them on.

Cutting edge looks pretty skinny on both upper and lower like it's already been flipped once. Check the back side, I'd bet you are riding on the bolts already.

Screw the shoes down some, and lock 'em (are they even there?) they are there so the cutting edge don't wear so much. I'd take 'em down below the edge about 3/16- 1/4", so the edge don't leave rust marks all over the sidewalks come spring/summer.

Thanks I'll check on the shoes. They're on there.

You guys were right on. The nuts on the wear strip are hitting the ground and have a small flat spot. It looks like the strip has not been used on the top side, so after this storm I'll flip it over and use new nuts. For now I adjusted the shoes so the blade is 1/16"-1/8" off the ground.

You should have some skids or "feet" that the blade should ride on as you are pushing snow to save the wear edge of the blade. I usually leave mine up about 1/2". I could not tell in your pictures if you have those on your blade or not, but you should. No harm in 1/2" or 1/4" of snow after your blade passes and it will save your edge. Do you have those skids on your blade?

Cub Cadet 123

Yes, read the last sentence of my last post. I have the "feet" that I called shoes. I lowered them down so the blade is off the ground 1/8".

I just checked a couple of junk ones that I had replaced. If the original cutting edge is nearing 1-1/2" they re pretty much done for.

1 blade I took in on trade was so far into the reinforcement behind the blade proper that it will require some serious restoration. The bolt holes were worn 1/2 way through.

If they still hold bolts, don't worry about it. All my blades are wore like that. As long as you can bolt the wear edge on, they are fine.

Skid shoes are nice for gravel.... on hard surface, they wear out as fast as the cutting edge. They cost about the same, if not more.

The only time I use the lift stop is to mow. I haven't had any cylinder problems on my 149.

I've gain 1 to 2 inches travel removing the stop.

Biggest reason for blade issues came from the front tires being too tall.

Blade Height
 

I purchased a piece of teflon from McMaster which was around 4 inches wide and width of the blade. I centered it on the bolt holes and used the old worn blade to secure it with the bolts. This extends the blade down a couple inches and when it gets worn, just turn it over to get the new edge in contact with the ground. Works great. I had to drill out all of the blade bolts that were rusty. Replaced with Stainless.