Removing right hand lift arm
 

Ok, so I got a new used right hand lift arm and hydraulic lift clevis to put on my 149 (the old ones are welded together by the PO so the deck won't float). I looked through the service manual, but didn't see where it told me how to replace them. In looking at the tractor, it appears I have to take the roll pins out of the right and left side of the rockshaft at the lift arms. does the rockshaft then come out through the frame on the left side of the tractor? I got one roll pin out on the right side, but the left side is REALLY stubborn. I have sprayed it with kroil and heated the lift arm with no success. Am I approaching this the right way? Thanks,
Jason

jfinney,

I don't know about the 149, but on my 123 it came out from the underside of the tractor. It wasn't fun and it wasn't easy, but it came out eventually.

Cub Cadet 123

In this case, I don't know if a picture is worth any words or not, take a look it may help.

You may also need to remove the fender pan to get it out.

http://www.partstree.com/parts/?lc=c...&dn=0025400022

Good Luck

Let me know if you figure out an easy way. I just tried the same thing and gave up. I didn't HAVE to change out the rockshaft, just wanted to put a nicer one in that I have. I couldn't get either pin to budge but I didn't spend a lot of time on it either. As was told to me, make sure the end you are driving through isn't mushroomed from hitting on it and use a brass punch.
I was looking at how I could grind down the pin flush with the shaft and then driving it out. Just a thought. Keep us updated on your success.

I just pulled the shaft out of an 1811, started by spraying PB blaster on for a couple days first mine came right out with a few sharp blows, with a ballpeen and a long punch

Still no luck and I am getting VERY frustrated! I've been heating, spraying liberally with kroil and beating the heck out of the roll pin with no luck.
Jason

If it won't move from one direction, try from the other direction.

Patience is key here. Don't give up just yet.

Yup, I've tried from both directions. From up above there isn't a whole lot of room to get a good swing at the roll pin punch. From below, even with the front end jacked up a bit (rear wheel is blocked and break is on), there isn't enough room to get a good swing either. Doesn't seem like it is moving in the least. I am wondering if, since the clevis and lift arm were welded together, the roll pin could have possibly gotten bent the slightest bit when the tractor was used with down pressure on the snow blade. Does that sound feasible, or am I grasping at straws. I cut the lower side off flush with the rockshaft thinking that perhaps it was mushroomed a bit and stopping it from moving...still no movement. I'll keep trying...never had anything give me this much trouble except for the rusty seat post bolts on my Farmall Cub.
Jason

I can't remember what it looked like in there but is there enough room for a loooong drill bit? But the pin may chip the tip of the bit. Or could you get a ez-out in it and maybe get it to turn a little, of course this may spread it apart and make it worse.
Is there a way you could get a 4" grinder in there and cut the weld that the PO made?
You're grasping at straws and so am I.

Grind, chisel or otherwise cut the pin off flush with the shaft and then go buy yourself a set of spiral pin punches and drive it out.

OR, if you are going to replace the shaft cut IT in half and take it out that way.

Sometimes, creativity is necessary. I once had to find a piece of pipe that fit over my roll pin punch, and then another long rod that fit in the other end of the tube to temporarily add about a 3' extension to my roll pin punch so I could get it out where I could swing a large hammer. It might be something to consider. If you can't swing the hammer or can't get a big enough hammer in there, you'll never get it out.

Well, the week long battle is finally over! It turns out all I needed was the proverbial BIG F'ing Hammer! My neighbor came over with a small hand sledge and with a few hits the spirol pin came out. Then it was a bear to get the rockshaft out of the tractor because it was rusted to the lift arms. Once everything was apart I cleaned the rockshaft up well with the wire wheel and put everything back together. It wasn't too easy getting those spirol pins in either, it was a pain getting the holes lined up just right. Anyway, it is done. The only problem I now have is this: when the hydraulic piston is fully extended, the clevis will just hit the hydro fan. Does that mean that my fan is in the wrong place? It never hit with the old clevis. Any ideas? Now I just need to mount up a mower deck or the tiller to try it out. Thanks for the ideas and encouragement.
Jason

Another option, maybe?
 

I'm engaged with making a 1650 from an 1100. This entailed removal of the 4 speed manual Peerless trans and rear and installing the ported hydrostat. When I removed the brake rockshaft (the brake and clutch arms are reversed on the shaft), I needed to drive the roll pins out. I supported the shaft with a jackstand as close as possible to the arm with the base on the concrete floor and the roll pins were easier to drive out.

From reading the postings in this forum, it's unclear if the posters did this and from my experience, you can beat the roll pins til the cows come home without much success because the tires absorb the shock needed to get the pins moving. Perhaps I'm misreading between the lines, but PB Blaster and a 3# hammer along with the support of the jackstand usually work quickly for me. Give it a try!

Happy Cubbing, FFGino:bigthink: