Carb cleaning....help!
 

Well, this will be the 3rd carburetor that I will have cleaned in my life....kinda sad for a 35 yo guy eh?:bash2:

Just wondering if I can use something like this to clean it on the inside and out?
Attachment 2860

Or will this damage the carb or clog up the ports in it? Only reason I am asking about this product is because I have it here now. I used it to clean parts when I rebuilt the rear end of my ATV last fall. Or should I be safe and go buy something like this?
Attachment 2861

Anything I should NOT do when cleaning this? Its a Walterboro carb (if it matters). I priced out a gasket kit for it today..... $165.00! Hmmmm....should I bite the bullet and buy the kit - or take the chances of re-using the gaskets & o-rings? I was always taught to never re-use gaskets or o-rings?? Was I taught correctly or do I have rocks in my head? Ummmm...don't answer the second part of that question.

I ordered new oil filter, fuel filter, and ignition wires & plugs, air filter & foam pre-cleaner for it today. Going to do a decent overhaul on it before the start of the mowing season. Can't afford any breakdowns! I still have to get my two releif bolts for the hydro unit, but that will have to wait until I get it running in top form again.
I removed the gas tank tonight, thanks to suggestions from other forum members. HOLY CRAP! These tanks hold a lot of gas in them. Almost filled a blue water bottle with the used gas. Was very surprised at the size of them. So will flush out the tank this weekend good. Glade to see the fuel shut off on the bottom of the tank works, doesn't seem to be beat up too bad either.
Just wondering....what happens to these Onan engines if you run high test gas in them? I am wondering if I bought a better grade of gas last fall and used it in the tractor? Because when I filled it up with the new gas...it ran like crap afterwards? :angry:

Where did you get that $165 price at?

Scott

I got that price direct from Cummins in Ontario. Sounds high doesn't it?? At least I thought it did?

I have used Lacquer Thinner and Acetone with success.

Hmmmmm...too many choices! Any thoughts on the gasket kit? think I am getting hosed?

You could try these people.......... http://www.onanparts.com/

I just looked up the gasket kit on Cub Cadet's website (ME-146-0220) and it's only about $30 from them.

I've been ordering my Onan parts from Jack's Small Engines. Good prices and real Onan parts. They have the carb kit for $12.40. http://www.jackssmallengines.com/sea...&q=1460792#205 If the link doesn't work use the lookup for PN 1460792 (replacement part number for 1460220) Good luck and get her running!

Well....some of you might call me stupid. I ordered two gaskets today for the carb because I know I will need them when I dismantal it to clean it all up. About $35.00 worth of gaskets with taxes, should have them Tuesday or Wednesday due to the holiday weekend. I ordered new plug wires and stuff too from Cummins here in Ontario. Figured by the time I pay the shipping and the customs clearance getting the stuff into Canada will be darn near the same price as buying it out of the USA. I checked into the expensive carb kit....it has almost everything in it by the sounds of it except a new carb housing. So I told the lady in parts I would hold off and get it only when I needed it. WOW, you wanna see a butch of a woman...wouldn't wanna cross her... :bigeyes::Spank: I wouldn't stand a chance!

So will see next week what I get for the money I spent? Hopefully I am doing the right thing??

Toyman....where the heck are the pictures of your new toy in your profile...what gives??????? :bigthink:

MH - Which new toy???? I have a 450 snowblower on the cub vine from New York to PA in a few weeks, but nothing else? Maybe it's a surprise from my wife?

HA! You wouldn't be that lucky....your wife doesn't love ya that much. Your tractor....you have no pictures in your profile at all anymore.....I figured we would see a nice action shot of your new machine after getting it out of the shop.....gotta show off them 982's....I think there a lot of people out there looking at the red ones!:biggrin2.gif:

Got an early start on things this morning while everyone was gone....peace and quiet!:Shhhh::coffee: Started to get the carb off today to clean it before my new gaskets and other parts arrive next week. I would have to say I was VERY surprised at what all needed to be removed just to get the dog on carb off this 982!
Start out with this...
Attachment 2896

Then...your down to...
Attachment 2897
Attachment 2898

WOW!...all this to go through to clean a carb? I see why it isn't done very often or at least not until it needs to be.
Attachment 2899
Attachment 2900

It is certainly worth the work.....but I am surprised by the stuff that is on these tractors. Guess I am just too used to seeing the junk they make now a days that is pumped off the assembly line quicker than they can supply crappy parts for?

Certainly need a :beer2: now that its appart. Now comes the challenge of getting it cleaned properly before reassembly!:bigthink:

The same idiot that designed the carb on that Onan must have been buddies with the guy that designed the carb/intake on the horizontally-opposed twin briggs engine in the 582. I don't understand why they thought it was a good idea to design it so that you have to remove the intake manifold to remove the carb. This is why I prefer Kohler.

Well the job is done! I got the carb all back together now and bolted back onto the tractor.....about $180.00 later in carb parts, air filter, oil filter, and gaskets, plugs, etc.

It works too!!!!!!!!!!!

:biggrin2.gif:

Got all the sheet metal back onto the engine, changed the oil and filter, rinsed out the gas tank, changed the fuel filter and the fuel lines, new plugs & wires. Putting the sheet metal back onto these engines are like doing a jig saw puzzel....air was a little blue at times, but I ended up winning.

Cranked it over a few times with almost full throttle and choke on to get the gas into the system and it fired up nicely. I was very pleased to say the least. The govenor seems to be working properly, it will rev up and down properly when I move the throttle (or at least seems normal to me?)

The real test comes tomorrow night when I get to take it out for a spin...need to move some junk outta the way first. Was lucky to get rid of the wife's summer tires from garage tonight...slowly making some room.
:beer2::beer2:

How is it running now MH. Did you take any pictures of the carb during the repair? :beerchug:

Knock on wood it is running pretty good so far. Actually I forgot to take the pictures while repairing it. I was kinda surprised at how little there is to these carbs. I have worked on Klein & Mikuni carbs before a little - they are more delicate I found than this one.
Basically once I removed it from the intake manifold (shown in picture)...still a dumb design I think - oh well, I didn't have much to take appart. Removed the 4 screws that held the top of it to the fuel bowl, the gasket came off easy too. Loosened off the 1 screw that held the shaft for the float in place and that assembly came off easily and let it soak in some gas. Removed the two brass seats that just unscrewed inside the carb, washed them up good with some carb cleaner and a coarse paint brush (new one, not a crappy old one). After that once the body of the carb was washed up good inside and out, blew it out with air compressor and started putting it back together. I replaced the gasket in the middle of the carb (between the two halves) as well as the one between the carb and the manifold. In the bag with the middle gasket were the new washer gaskets for the two brass pieeces inside so they were changed too. Bolted it back onto the washed up intake manifold and started the reassembly of it all. Put on new intake manifold gaskets as well as muffler gaskets, wiped down the outside of engine and then started the jig saw puzzle for reassembling the tin work around the engine.

I was VERY nervous about doing this job...but I figured it was do or die, so I bit the bullet and did it. Besides...if the wife knew I paid someone to do the tune up she would likely lock me up! Still think she is mad that I bought the tractor - she says no, but I am still not convinced.

You ever had to do this for your carb Oak?

I noticed when I was cleaning the carb that the shaft for the govenor, the end of it is starting to wear a bit...so might have to replace that sometime in the future...perhaps that might create a problem??

So, how do you know when your carb is set "too rich"?? I am wondering because I tend to smell the exhaust fumes while driving the tractor if the wind blows them back towards me....smells more like raw fuel than regular exhaust? Am I dreaming, or perhaps inhailing too many fumes? Wasn't sure if I should worry about it and accept the fact it burns a little rich and don't have to worry about burning up the inside of the engine by running it too lean??? Any comments would be good here! Thanks:BangPC:

To rich is as bad as to lean. I used to be able to smell the exhaust and tell. But if it soots up the muffler, that is a good indicator that it is to lean.

Let it warm up a bit, then idle it down. Slam the throttle to wide open. If it stumbles and/or you get black, sooty smoke, it's too rich. If it just stumbles and backfires with no smoke, it's probably a bit too lean.

I’m sure everybody has their preferred way of setting the main jet.
I find what works well for me all these years, is to warm up the engine, with the air cleaner installed. Then open the throttle full open @ the governed rpm, usually somewhere around 3600 RPM and adjust the main jet screw in to lean it, till you hear the engine just start to slow down.
Then back it out about ½-3/4 turn richer. Doing this a couple times gets it just right.
It should rev up without hesitation from an idle. A ¼ turn rich is better than lean because it runs cooler and less chance of burning an exhaust valve on heavy loads.
Also I like to pull the spark plug after a heavy load like mowing and “read it’
It should look like nestles quick , a light brown,--- if whitish it is too lean and if darker brown or leaning to blackish it is too rich.
But with today’s unleaded gas it is harder to read than when we had good old tetraethyl lead in the gas.
It might be noted that more modern engines have un adjustable or fixed main jet that you can not adjust

Thanks for the heads up guys....I will have to do some investigating this week when its nice and sunny out so I can see what the exhast is like....might have to try this a couple times and break out the manual!!:biggrin2.gif:

Gum Out....carb. and choke cleaner works well. was all i used when re-building my Carter carb. on my 71.

Before you try to set the carb... make sure the timing is spot on. I spent several hours trying to set the carb right on my 1650... and all I needed was to set the timing. Just pointing that out...

Improper timing isn't going to make the exhaust smell like raw gas.

Well, I used the 982 for about 2 hours steady tonight with very little problems. I am thinking it is just finally getting itself straightened out. I turned it off 3 times in that 2 hours and when I fired it up each time, no smoke...smelt raw fuel once in the 2 hours. Everything was fine with it...no hesitation, idled good, lots of power (mind you I was only pulling an spring tine areator) but up and down hills no problems. I think it just needs to be worked a bit. The guy I bought it from didn't have a very big lot and I don't think he owned it long either, so it didn't get a lot of use - but I am just speculating that!

:beer2:

Also just keep in mind that these older L-head engines aren't as efficient or as clean-burning as the newer V-twins and are going to smell a bit.

awesome sound advice! thanks for sharing.......going to have a closer look at this!