Spirol Pin Question, 982 Rockshaft Assembly
 

I put yellow arrows pointing to all 4 as reference, I only need to know about the rockshaft ones, thanks again.Attachment 60781

yup the 2 upper ones in photo are the rockshaft...just use an appropriate size punch and hammer. never removed that style of rockshaft before but heard your in for a rough time as the peices dont like to slide on the shafts. it will help if you can remove paint from the shaft so the arms can slide

You are going to need some punches. I got both sets from Harbor freight when I dissasembled a 125. Sometimes you need a short one, sometimes a long. The $18 for both sets was well spent.

Just so we don't get too deep into tools..... she stated in her last thread that she has roll pin punches. :beerchug:


Yep, rockshaft is the top one in the pic. :ThumbsUp:

Now that you mentioned that, I read through that thread and indeed she did say she has many tools from her late Husband.:ThumbsUp:

THANKS..now..do I approach these pins from the side that shows in the pic, or from the other side? I am not dumb, just have not done some of these things yet. I learn by doing.....and asking questions

You can drive them out from either side. Want to drive them from the side you can get the best swing from a hammer. I'd go from the pic side if it were me. They still can be a pain to get out. Also check to make sure a PO didn't hit on one end with a hammer or punch. May have mushroomed that end and it will be hard to drive through the rockshaft. Good luck and keep us posted. :beerchug:

Thanks, and I will keep you posted.:Announce:

If you can, you may want to grind/file the end flush w/the shaft.
That way as soon as it starts to move you can get some WD-40 or something like that in there to help loosen it and also avoid mushrooming the end. The correct punch will follow it right through the shaft.
I assume you are going to replace them anyway w/new ones.
BTW. why are we/you removing them ??
Be carefull!!

Thanks. I am removing them in order to replace the rockshaft assembly.
I lost lift last year after I attached the 451 thrower to the 982.
Apparently I either attached it incorrectly or the pins were ready to let go and just needed that straw that broke the camels back. I have lift action under no load, with load, my blade, I am lucky to see 1" on the R side , and 1/2" on the left.

There should be evidence of one or the other of them moving on the rock shaft then.
Are you sure it's not the part on the outside, be it hydraulic or manual that's not slipping?
With the tunnel cover off it should be readily apparent what is going on.

Find out which one is moving, then line it up with the one that appears to NOT be moving so the pin, or what's left of it, will be lined up with the hole in the shaft

Ok guys. drekeweg Has another thread that apparently some of you missed. Just so we aren't re-hashing out all the details of her problem, here is the link to the thread. If you have any questions as to the details of the problem, reading this (other) thread should answer them. :beerchug:

http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=36558

Just checking in. Have you had any luck? :bigthink:

Well a little, went to my Cub dealer , bought some Seafoam and the replacement pins.
The rockshaft and pins are soaking.
I did a good bit of paint removal before I sprayed.While the soaking is in progress I tuned her up, new plugs, air filter, fuel filter, just replaced the hydro filter and fluid in March, changed oil and filter.Got out my grease gun and lubed her...yadda yadda.
I had to remove the R rear wheel and tire and took it in for a tube .Slow leak .I changed out the valve stem first as I was not looking forward to pulling the weight off to remove the wheel, aired it back up and still had a nearly flat tire this A.M.
So that is where I am at now.
Thanks for asking:Thanks:

Took 982 to the Dealer for repair gotta choose my battles.
Spirol pins ok, rockshaft ok.They said I had too long a lift rod, put a shorter one on, lift was good. Plowed my lane, then pushed snow off to make room for new snowfall plowing, smacked into a hidden stump about 4"diameter, and 5 " tall, hidden .had no clue what I hit.did a faceplant into my windshield.Cleaned myself up, went back out to finish up, after 1pass up and back, smacked into the same damned stump..( this time I looked to see what was buried in all that snow)Another faceplant, this time I broke my nose..hurt like hell, put ice on it and took ibuprofin.Took the rest of the day off.
Lost bridge pin, and washer, and tube fell off.That is when I lost lift again.
I just paid $91.00 for parts and $420.00 in labor..so I checked spirol pins ..ok.
Put tube back on, still only 1"lift.
Originally there was a bolt with 2nuts for adjustment on the front lower frame of the blade..mechanic took it off.
Question..will replacing that adjustment bolt give me lift again?
Thanks...

WOW! Tough day! :bigeyes:

I am gonna go out of a limb here and say that now something is bent. No idea what. Just a note..... the labor bill sounds kind of high for replacing a lift rod. I'm assuming that a haul in and back home was on there too, but still.... that's a lot of $$ for the repair made unless I missed something. Not sure what to tell you to do, but something is definitely broken or bent.

Just as a note, I'm glad to see I was correct. I didn't think it looked like any of the spirol pins were sheared. But, I did think the rockshaft may have been bent. I suppose it could be now...... :bigthink:

Thanks Jonathan...the repairs were :they checked the rockshaft, pins, hydraulics, changed air filter, put in 2 spark plugs..shortened my tire chains to fit, put a tube in right rear tire, attached the blade assembly and replaced the lift rod with a shorter one, and put 3screws on the tunnel cover..7 hrs labor at $60. 00 an hour.
I did think the lift rod looked bent ,and the adjustable bolt in the lower front lift bracket was not put back on, 1of the 2 bolts from either side of the bracket attachment was missing completely and the other was so loose I can wiggle it with my fingers, ( this is how it was returned to me)...I ran a wire thru the spirol pins and they are lined up..which led me to about the same conclusion as you, I bent that rod,...or, as I think , that adjustable bolt / nut on the lower bracket area should be put back on . My blade just DROPPED...blam!, after or right before my tractor stopped dead in its tracks.I could not see the washer or bridge pin anywhere near where the tube dropped which made me wonder if they fell off at the 1st collision, and the tube just held on somehow for awhile.
If I am muddy in my descriptions I am sorry...J-Mech, the repair bill did include a $75.00 haul charge for a 6 mile round trip...but can you see why I don't trust others to do work for me? .:BangPC::bash2:

You might try advertising for help in your locale to see if a fellow forum member could help you with your tractor who might live close by you. Another option that you could explore is to check to see if there is a local antique tractor club in your area that might have some good ole' fellas who could help you out. If they are Mason's, then I know they will help you out.

Well, just some suggestions that might save you some $$$ and regain your trust in your fellow (wo)man.

Cub Cadet 123

Thanks, sounds like good advice.
Nice of you to think of that.:beerchug:

Noticed a LOT of hydro oil on the floor under the rear of the 982..after the collision with the tree stump, could the force of that hit have caused such a leak? I am not trying to sound like a dummy, I just am not educated on the hydraulics..
I had posted earlier about the 2 collisions and loss of lift.
anyone have an idea?

It is possible.

Best thing to do is find out where it is leaking. Then, we can direct you to a repair, and tell you if the collision may have caused "other" damage. :beerchug:

Thanks , J-mech., for the speedy reply...I posted about the same question in another thread..was not sure if I broke the rules posting it under this thread
I will attempt to find the leak. :beerchug:

It sounds like it may be helpful if you could find a member in your area that could give you some help on this tractor.

After reading this thread, I know if I lived within 1.5 hours or so I would probably go pick it up and fix it for only the price of the parts.

Same here.

Thanks . .Cub folk are the best!:beerchug:

I am checking out the leak today..not as cold out.
Will post any result I find.

Excuse me, but I don't recall hearing with what part of the tractor she hit the stump with. Twice. Did you Hit the stump with the same part of the tractor or different parts with each impact? I understand your nose hurts and I'm very sorry for that but these are some questions that might help us answer your questions. Did you run over top of the stump and hit the pump, filter, sump line, or rear end? Being that's where its leaking from has got me wondering. Waiting for more pic's ! :bigthink:

I hit head on with the blade and it stopped dead...The engine was still running after both hits, the blade was the only thing hit, except the windshield where I did the face plant.
I am not sure what pics you would like to see.
I think I hit the same stump twice, the 2nd hit was more to the right of center on the blade.That is when I noticed the lift tube was off, but did not see the bridge pin or the washer anywhere.
I did not notice the leak until the next day,after I parked her, as I was nursing a very swollen face ..That is when I went out and reattached the lift tube, and saw the fluid on the floor.It is right under the rear axle.
Thanks, Grampie....let me.know what u need photos of.:WWP:

Did I mention that I thought the lift tube may have come loose, after the 1st collision with the stump, and eventually dropped off , causing the blade to abruptly drop , stopping the tractor , and thus throwing me into the windshield on the 2nd collision
I had plowed up the drive and back down,had it cleared , smacked into the stump , hit the windshield, drove back to the house to clean up, half hour later I was on my 2nd pass trying to push back the plowed stuff,when I had the 2nd (and nose breaker) wreck .That time I just shut her off and left her set for the next hour or so while waiting for the bleeding to stop, and I did not notice any fluid on the ground then, either.
My drive is roughly 3300'long, wooded on both sides all the way up.

The leak may be your auction tube, it is on the bottom front side of the rear axle and angles up to the hydro pump. They're made of aluminum and it's possible the force of impact make have cracked it, even if it wasn't hit. That's where I would look first. I may have a pic of mine on my 125, different machine but set up the same way. Hope you're healing up ok!

Yes, I am healing.. thanks for asking,Ian.
I should take pics, My 982 is very cold -blooded and refuses to start in these frigid temps, and until she is running, I don't think I can locate the leak, or can I?

My LTX 1042 is sitting outside under a tarp temporarily, she fired right up yesterday and I plowed the 3 inches of new snow we just got with her.

So, when I can I will post pics.

Good to hear you're healing up. :beerchug:

Sorry so long to get back with you, I've been out pushing snow myself and managed to keep my nose off my windshield, I'm thinking along the same lines as cadzag72, I was wondering if the impact cracked the suction tube in front of the rear axle, or if the cork gasket between the pump and trans let go and started leaking. PIC's of underneath the tractor of suction tube, filter, and relief valve area, if you remove the 1 bolt in front of the seat and take that small cover off, and see if its wet with oil in there.

For a suction tube leak, it will leak whether the tractor is running or not, most of the time. For the cork gasket leak, yes, the tractor would need to be running. Definitely check the fluid level before you start it though.

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The screw that you see is out of your trunion cover. It is a self tapping screw. Seen those before. It has nothing to do with your leak, but I would not toss it. Those are difficult to replace. Again, I would recommend a cleaning as I recommended earlier and then an inspection.

Cub Cadet 123

The screw is way too big to fit tunnel cover, sorry, must look smaller in the pic. I just looked again and realized I should have used something to put it in perspective.

Not trying to argue with anyone, just want to be sure no one gets me wrong.:NailBite: