Leveling dirt with a 682
 

Now that I am getting close to having a serviceable 682 I am thinking about getting a front blade for pushing but mostly leveling loose dirt. Is it worth switching out the aluminum rear end for a cast one or is the tractor too small to make it worthwhile.

How much would you pay for a cast rear end with or without a ported hydro unit?

As a side note it irritates me when I see people selling hydro units and have not taped over the open ports. Who know what crap ends up inside the unit. Am I wrong to be concerned ?

I don't know how plentiful cubs are in your area, but even here where that aren't very many, I would NOT pay over $100.00 for one.

If you could find a rear end and ported pump still together, $50 - $75 would be a good price (for the buyer).

If you don't need the pump, I would think you should be able to find a rear end for $50.00 or less.

If you were here, I'd sell you as many hydro rear ends as you could haul for $50.00 each and probably throw in an extra one for free.

And yeah it aggravates me that people don't plug the holes, but I've gotten to the point that I don't worry about it too much. Even before they were broken down they probably already had a ton of crud run through them, the filter picks up everything that needs to be picked up and they're pretty durable.

FWIW, a rear blade would probably make leveling dirt/gravel easier than a front blade,

The aluminum rears are fine as long as all of the mounting bolts are kept tight. If you do anything, I would get a set of Sam Mac braces from Xtreme.

Mark

I respectfully disagree with this statement. The 3 ports circled in red in this pic if contaminated can lead to destruction of the pump. I cap these when ever I work on a pump. :beerchug:

After reading that again, I gotta say that it really didn't translate well.

Put like this... If a guy takes a tractor apart, pulls the pump off of a rear end, lets it drain and lays it on a shelf in his storage building without dropping it in the mud or letting the caked on, greasy dirt get into the openings, it's probably going to be alright when I come in to buy it.

Should they be capped or plugged? Of course, but I can't continue to be frantic about such things anymore. Besides that, are there any CC salvage yards that take the time or trouble to cap/plug these or any other ports?

Chances are, any dust or airborne impurities (except grinding dust) that make theirway to and adhere themselves to the inside of the openings isn't normally going to hurt anything.

All bets are off if the seller throws these parts into a box or crate with a bunch of other nasty greasy stuff though.

Not that I've ever seen. :bash2:


Had this happen too. From a guy who should have known better!! Pulled the relief valves too. (That's the other half of the story. It's not a "complete" unit without those, am I wrong???) No plugs in them. Didn't clean up the hydro at all. Just pulled it, pulled the valves, threw the nasty thing in a box and shipped it. I was PISSED when I got it. Inside was full of dirt. Had to take it all apart and clean it. HE (seller) got an EARFULL from me!!!! I may buy other stuff from him, but if I ever want another hydro, there is going to be an "understanding" about how it is to arrive to me! :BB&YS:

If the dirt and corruption I found sitting on my hydro was anything like typical, I don't see how you can remove one without crap getting into it unless you powerwash it first. If they are not willing to tape up the open ports why would they bother washing it. Even worse if the wash it after it is out.

Thanks I guess I need to watch a few more vids and figure out what I need to do regarding leveling.

As to what?? The blade or the hydro? :bigthink:

I was thinking about leveling dirt when I wrote that and have fixed the post. Regarding the used hydro units it sounds like the 'safe' thing to do is open them up and make sure everything is clean. That is if you don't trust them. Any idea on maybe flushing the crap from the ports instead of taking things apart?

@Yosemite Sam, Just talked with the wife and if all goes well we may make the 12 hour trip out your way and pickup a few parts. We can check craigslist along the way and try to score another cub from an reasonable original owner. :)

There is no need to replace the aluminum rear with a CI one. You won't ever break the Al one. Believe me. You won't ever beat on yours the way I do mine. :biggrin2: I run an 1811, with loaded rear ag's plus 75# wheel weights and a cab. I plow, till, mow, blade (it's moved a lot of snow) on and on.... It's a myth that the Al units aren't strong enough.

As far as a hydro goes. No, DO NOT open one up unless necessary. I've been into many hydro's and I do not recommend it ever. I've almost given up on preaching this though because it seems like guys never listen. (Your new so you may not know.... I'm an independent "mechanic" shop owner, and I've worked on heavy equipment for years. These little machines are just toys to me. :biggrin2:) Keep them together unless absolutely necessary to disassemble. Don't ever open one up "just to look". :beerchug:

I am listening J-Mech. Once in a while I do need to hear it twice:bash:

I gotta agree, pull the whole thing, wash it off then separate the two parts. But none of the big sellers are going to do that.

I also agree that if you use one of Sams kits and keep the bolts tight, you won't ever break one. Unless the bolt holes are already suspect.

Even the little guys don't cap them off, I bought one last Saturday locally, it wasn't capped. This guy really knows better. Most folks just don't care,IMO.

Your 682 will be just fine pushing dirt with the aluminum rear, I did it for years with a 1210. If you buy the brace kit from Xtreme you need the GT kit for the 682.
http://www.xtrememotorworks.com/Part...s%20Engine.htm
Let me know if you have any questions about it.

Because the are only in it for the money. That is the one really sucky things about the cubs.