IH Cub 982 Repair help, please
 

I recently had my 982 up for sale here. I pulled the ad because I want it repaired before deciding whether or not to sell.I appreciate the interest expressed., and regret any inconvenience .
Now...to my question.
I lost lift last year after attaching and using the snowthrower..worked just fine with the blade..
I suspect I did not attach the thrower correctly and the sheer weight snapped a spirol pin in the rockshaft.
I cannot find any info on how to replace the assembly.This 982 is a fine ,hard working tractor..and it killed me to put her up for sale. I got discouraged because I have no instruction on how to fix her and it was a shame to leave her sitting in the pole bldg..useless thru the winter.
As you all know, we Cubby owners love our tractors.
I posted on another Cub site and got great info from the fine members there.,but no one seemed to have instruction manual on replacing this part.
I can add the link if it will help anyone help me out, also posted pics there.
Thanks..:bigthink:

If it did indeed sheer the pin..... all you do is drive the old out, and a new one in. What more info do you need? I'm not sure how to answer the question..... Can you be more specific? Do you need to know where the pin is located? Where to find parts? How to beat it out? I just don't know what to say that will help. :Huh:

I guess first thing would be to make sure it did in fact sheer. Best way is to pull the tunnel cover and watch the lift mechanism work. See if everything is moving. Personally..... I think you should just go ahead and sell it if that's what your end goal is. It won't affect the value much, if any. You have a nice machine. :beerchug:

First off welcome to OCC. what modle thrower do you have? you have to take the tunnel cover off if look see if the every thing moving with thrower on so you have heavy weight. if it not a broke check make sure you have no leaks (hydraulic).

I have done all the testing ..made videos.I used a 3 # hammer and pin driver and could not budge that pin.It appears the problem is the inner shaft has spun .I can operate the lift and everything moves under no load, but there is a slipping in the lift arm.
I am super reluctant to part with my tractor.
I felt I should sell her to someone who could fix her and utilize her instead of her sitting idle.
I realized that I want to try and fix her , and Then see if I still want to sell.
I am prepared to buy what I need to make it so.I have been advised to replace the whole rockshaft assembly, but they didn't tell me How to do it.
Can you direct me to a service manual ?
Thanks...:HeadScratch::HeadScratch:

Here is the link to the chassis service manual. I don't think it will be of much help though. It does not cover rockshaft removal or service. None of the CCC or IHCC manuals cover rockshaft removal.

http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=13226


You are going to have to get the two shafts aligned so you can beat the pins out. I understand that you have tried that.... but that's how you fix it. If you want to replace the rockshaft, that's fine too. (I doubt that is necessary though.) Cut the old one out. Either with a torch, or a sawzall. Perhaps there is a member on here in your area that could help you? :bigthink:

Its a Haban 451..I tested lift with 54" blade attached and with no load.
I got 6 " of lift after adjusting , but it drifted down to barely 1",and would not lift again. I changed Hydro Filter and fluid..had no leaks.The very heavy weight of the 451 thrower not attached correctly is when the problem started. I was going up a slight incline in very heavy wet snow, with the blade on..it lifted and lowered fine, then the combo of heavy deep wet icy snow made it imposdible to move, so I attached the thrower..threw snow like a demon for about 7 '..then no lift.none..zero nada..then.crap! Now what? I said to myself..self you are screwed I replied.

J-mech..thanks I have all of those manuals.
Wonder why none of them cover the rockshaft assy.? Kind of a P.I.T.A.
I am going to replace the fender assembly also.That looks pretty straightforward according to the parts illustration.
Perhaps I need to study the rockshaft assembly pics, also.
I have done ok so far (except for incorrect Snowthrower attachment) studying images.
The thrower has been modified somehow to fit this tractor, but no explanation from PO on that one.
I have wheel weights and chains on also.

Where are the video's you made? Can you link to them please? I'd like to watch them.

Most all manuals don't cover everything... Even in the tractor and auto world, sometimes you find something they just don't cover, or are very vague about.

Sure thing..need to get off the Kindle and over to my desktop.
Just a couple minutes..:IH Trusted Hand:

http://youtu.be/rwPtgofOusM
this vid was in response to a question by a member of a dot com board
showing a very brief lift arm in action.....the 2nd one shows the bolt lift in action , as a reply to that same members request, ,https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wYY_DTeKEIYAttachment 60454

Attachment 60455

Attachment 60456

Attachment 60457

Attachment 60458

That video was kinda short and not really informative but I watched another one that was on you tube, looks to me like you have a sheared roll pin in the right lift arm.

Dumb question but did you line the arm back up with the shaft correctly when you tried to beat the pin out? Did you use some penetrant oil and let it soak? Any heat used? It's best to grind off the broken pin flush then pound out with a proper size roll pin punch. What are you using to get it out? Sorry just need more info

a roll pin punch might help better then a regular punch,got a cheap set at HF a few years ago. keeps from mushrooming the ends over,just my 2 cents. hard to fix stuff over the innerweb.....

Well Danni.....

Your pics and video are impressive. The 15 min video was most helpful. Only issue I see between the pics and the vid is that they don't match. What I mean is, I paid close attention in the vids to the two lift arms and how well they move together. They appear, in some really good angle of the video, that they work together. In the pics, they appear to not be aligned, but I really think it is the angle of the shot. Your 982 has the older style of rockshaft. The left and right lift links for the deck are two separate pieces. The roll pin that is installed in the RH one does all the lifting for the front mounted implements. On the newer style, the two lifting arms for the deck have a pipe welded between, and both roll pins help to lift the front mounted implements.

I checked with another super and I do concur with you that the distance between the lift arm for the front and the RH lift arm for the deck are too far apart. You measured quite well, 6 3/4". The one I have here measures around 4 1/4". So I do agree that something is incorrect. It is possible that the roll pin on the right is broken, but in the video, I just don't think that it is. Honestly, I think the rockshaft is twisted.

At this junction, I'm going to suggest getting the old shaft out however possible. Either in pieces, or all together. However you can do it. Then replace it with the newer style. It does not have to come from a 982, as all the SGT through the 2182 SN# 821,059 used the same parts. After that there was a change made to the lift. You will have to find a used one, as new is NLA.
NOW.... all that said, I did some extensive comparing from the GT center rockshaft (the one for the deck, I'll refer to it as "center") to the one on a SGT. They carry different part numbers, but the only difference is the size of the tube. (It thickness) So, you can substitute a GT center rockshaft for the SGT. In your case, it will still be better than the split center style you have. Plus, a 451 blower is heavier than the blade, (or really close to the same) and that blower also goes on a GT, so we know the rockshaft can handle it.
As far as the front rockshaft goes, it is now part number 703-0854-0637 and it is still available. It can be purchased here for $118.

If you would like to try and get the spirol pins out and repair what you have that is fine. But I do suggest doing the upgrade. If your front rockshaft is not twisted, then you do not need to replace it for the upgrade. Same part number for it no matter which style you use. (2 piece or single piece center rockshaft.)

Hope this helps. :beerchug:

(I'm tired now. Been working on this for an hour!)

Wow..thanks for your attention to this.You do not know how much it is appreciated
I was busy working on my reply to the last post, trying to answer one by one the several questions asked. Which, since I labored over it (whew)..I am including

.Yes the vid was short..in reply to a question from a member of another cub
board..it answered his question

I agree the R pin is sheared
.
I did not use heat. I do have a portable hand held grinder..just taught
myself to use it properly., but have not used it on tractor,

My late husband was a Millwright at GM truck plant..he had among many other
tools .. roll pin punches , which I used.

I drowned it in Liquid Wrench..then WD 40..have heard PB Blaster is the
best..which I will buy if you all agree.

I no longer have a torch set..it was stolen, tanks and all.I have a
simple propane torch, and a very small mini torch.

Was not able to line anything up. I was advised to smack it with a
hammer,..hook it to a chain, hook the other end to my barn beam and try to
align it that way.No luck.

Which is why I am ready to remove the whole assembly and replace it
all(rockshaft assy.)

I realize it is tough to diagnose and repair over cyber space.
And I truly appreciate all of the input.

NOAA weather is calling for 3-5 inches of snow here in the next day. and
Frigid temps. I did buy a 42" MTD blade for my Cub Cadet LTX 1042 KW
Rider I have 3300 feet of curvy , wooded gravel driveway to clear , plus
the circle drive to the garage. , which is why I prefer my 982.

once again, hats off to you all for the input.
Attachment 60462

Try inserting a wire thru the sheared spirol pin to help line it up before trying to drive it out.

I just drove a rusty roll pin out of my 782 with the use of PB Blaster and it made a big difference as a lubricant. One thing that I wanted to try out, but have not had the chance to yet, is my palm nailer to help drive out a roll pin. Sometimes, I do not have the space to swing my hammer (3 #) and figured if my palm nailer can drive nails into my native oak framing of my old house then it might be handy on those stubborn role pins in tight spaces. If you have one, then you might give it a try, if not then do not spend the money on one until someone who has tried one can properly advise on this tool......sorry, I just haven't had a chance to use mine yet, but it seemed like a possibility. Did you check the pin on the lift arm on the outside of the frame? I had a 129 with hydraulic lift that did the same thing that you described and it was that roll pin that was the culprit.

Oh, BTW, a 982 is a he and a 782 is a she.:biggrin2: Hope you resolve your issue and keep your 982--that sounds like what you really want to do.

Did you check your thrower's bracket to make sure that it was functioning properly, too? I am unfamiliar with that model thrower, but it may have a bracket that a weld has broken on or something like that......never hurts to do a visual inspection.

Cub Cadet 123

I have the roll pin punches for an air hammer/chisel. They help, but if it's really stuck..... you better off with a BFH.


982 doesn't have a roll pin there.

My 982 is a SHE ..my 3 yr old Great nephew named her THELMA LOU 982...

Jonathan
my assembly is the earlier one. I have read that IH fixed this on later models. I was also told that an extra strap added would help bear the weight of that heavy thrower.

I am attaching a couple pics. Showing early and late assemblies.

Also, I wanted to show you a modification made by a PO .

I'm familiar with the difference between the early and late. I recognized yours as an early as stated in my long post #13.

The piece I circled is the one I was referring to in post #13 as the "center" rockshaft. It is the one I suggested you replace. Like I mentioned earlier, you will have to find that piece used as it is NLA, but one from a GT (Garden Tractor) will work. It doesn't have to be from a SGT (Super Garden Tractor). I can provide model numbers if you need, but any of our sponsors at the top who sell used parts should be able to help you.

Attachment 60471


I noticed that notch in the frame in your vids. I wasn't convinced it was a PO mod though, it looks like wear where the pin was hitting the frame. But it could have been cut by a grinder from a PO.

The strap you mentioned is not for tying the two center arms together. It is a strap that attaches the arm for the front lift, to the lift arm on the RH side for the deck. (#'s 1 and 2 in the pic) It takes the load off the roll pins I also suggest this. However, I will also state that I have a blower same as yours that I have ran for about 10 years now without any strap with no issues. I've probably put about 200 hrs on that blower with no breakage, so I don't know if it's a huge deal...

I still think your rockshaft (#2) is bent/twisted. From the vids, it just doesn't appear to me that the pin is broken. Loose perhaps, but not broken. I don't think it would make any attempt at all to lift the blade, like it does, if it was sheared. But, I'm going off of a video too.

You know what you need to do. You've got to get that shaft out. :beerchug:

I think if this was my project I would contact the sponsors at the top of the page and buy a complete used rock shaft then I'd take a Sawzall to what you have to get it out of the tractor.

Thanks.I pretty much intended to do exactly that. I was asking here for the how to, not the why for...so again, hats off,..appreciate the replies from one and all.:Bowdown2::Bowdown2: