How do I remove the drive hub (Cub Cadet KH-41-071-04)
 

I put the part number in the description just incase I'm not calling it by it's correct name. Does this simply pull off or is it screwed on there? I removed the nut that was in side this but just did not want to start beating on this thing till I understood how it comes off. I do have a pulley puller but the center bolt that comes with it is not long enough to push against the shaft and tighten the 3 arms that wrap around this part. I'm also posting a pic of the item to make sure I show you what I'm talking about :)

Unbolt the center bolt (like you did) and pull it off. :biggrin2:

There is a dowel pin that holds it from turning. They get stuck on the dowel. Sometimes they are hard to get off. DO NOT use a puller. It's alluminum, you'll break it. Probably have to take the tins off and get behind it with a screwdriver or small pry bar.

Why are you taking it off?

It is snug but should pull off. Here is a picture of the back side.
The small hole is for a pin that also goes into the flywheel.
When you get it off the pin may stay in the flywheel or it may come out with the hub.

Wow so glad I asked because I was trying to figure out how to get that puller to work :bash2: So this is an older 7hp engine I have that I'm looking to learn on. I planned on starting a thread real soon on the progress of me "refreshing" this engine. I think getting into the insides is a little more then I can take on this first time around so I'm just looking to take everything off the outside of the engine. Clean the block, paint some parts to it looks nice and put it back together again. Even if I'm just taking a part off to only turn around and re-attach it again I'm cool with that. Bottom line I'll never know how to work on these engines without jumping in and playing (and I'm sure breaking) with them :) Thank you for the info, you saved me from buying a new hub. See, I'm already learning!!! :beer2:

Ah. nice pic and helpful. Thank you

Another tool for Jeff to make,just a piece of flat stock with three holes in it,two to bolt it to the pulley using the existing holes,and one in the center that would be tapped,and a long bolt with a tit on the end. I like that word.... Bolt!!!
Instant drive puller.

I'd buy one off Jeff's big tit'ed tools. Ok, the thread has now gone poorly wrong.

Sometimes they can be really stubborn to get off, don't try to force it or pry on it too much. I have been known to tap them back and forth using a hammer an a piece of wood, gentle taps...

My approach, too. :ThumbsUp::ThumbsUp:

So are you saying taping it on the sides? I can't really get behind it because of the heat shield. Sucker won't move :BangPC:

I'll draw something up next week ( I'm busy with orders right now )

Maybe make a package with the PTO puller and a stand alone item too. :beerchug:

What heat shield? You mean the rear tin? Take it off.

Yep, the rear tin. That tin seems to be behind the screen that is attached to this hub correct? From what I can tell I can't pull off this tin till I remove the hub and screen. That's just how it looks but if you're saying it can be done I'll look again. First time at this for me so I'm sure I could have missed this.

No, you are correct. The hub has to come off first. I didn't know if yours was missing the screen. My bad. Try no to ruin the screen. They are still available, but expensive. Hard to find good used ones. Just keep trying.

For me this works well to remove flywheels. Use an air chisel with a blunt tip to vibrate the crank while applying light pressure to the back of the hub.

A video but not on a kohler removing flywheels the easy way - YouTube

I'd heat it with a propane torch. The aluminum will expand and off she comes. Used to have the do that to get the flywheels off and the bearings out of the cases on Bultaco motor cycles.

Good deal folks. OK I'll keep working on this :)

Yes, a narrow 1 by, put the end of it against the edge of the pulley and tap from one side and then the other... Back and forth. Be gentle and don't try to hurry.

Don't forget to take the nut off of the end of the shaft and look into the hole to make sure someone didn't put two nuts in there.

Maybe...............
Since the crank nut and washer is off, look thru the screen to find the bump in the hub for the pin area.
Rotate crank so that area is down.
Spray PB Blaster in with the red plastic tube so it goes in down the backside of hub and hits that pin.
Let it set a day.

All good suggestions and I'll play some tonight. The nut is off and there is not another on there so I'll try the tapping and spraying approach. If I can grab some welding time at my buddies I might ask him to put together a simpler puller for me. I was thinking a square piece of metal just bigger then the 4 screw holes. Drill out those 4 holes and then one larger hole in the center of the metal. Finally, weld a nut over the center hole for the actual bolt that would press against the shaft and do the pulling. Use 4 bolts and attach this plate the the hub and gently screw in the center bolt against the shaft to press this off. Now referring back to J-Mech's reply about this being alum is my idea ok or would this approach put to much stress on these alum threaded screw holes?

I don't think as long as you don't get stupid that is fine. You run more of a risk of breaking the hub than pulling the threads.

Here's the issue I see with the whole puller thing....
The hub isn't stuck in the center, it's stuck on the dowel which is off center to one side. When you use a puller, the force is in the center, but it will be pulling to one side because that's where it's stuck. It will "cock" while pulling and you could break the hub. I've never had one so stuck that I couldn't get it off with a little bit of working. I think Y-Sam's approach combined with some heat like Sam suggested is the best approach. Really, don't make this harder than it really is. I was thinking I broke one one time. But IIRC, it was really corroded and brittle from age and deterioration.

Good deal then. I'll do some tapping tonight on it and if that does not work snag a torch from a friend to apply some heat.

On another note, put anti-seize or grease on the dowel when you reinstall it. That way next time it comes right off. :biggrin2:

Good advice :IH Trusted Hand:

Man this worked out great! I used my air hammer and just put a bit in it that we talked about a long time about to push out spirol pins. It's the bit with that nip on the tip just like the correct punch to use to push out those PITA pins. So I just hammered the drive shaft a little and pulled the thing off by hand! OMG, few things I've done so far have actually worked this perfect. I mean this just worked great and was safe on the hub. Just like you folks said, the hub was stuck solid inside the fly wheel. Cool part was that came off at the same time! Nice win for the rookie I have to say.

Ok. I'm impressed. I didn't even think to try that, Gene. Good call! :ThumbsUp:

Don't let that go to your head, your still a rookie. LMFAO!!!

Glad you got it off Gene. :beerchug:

Glad it worked for you.

I have been using an air hammer/chisel on flywheels and pump rotors for about a year now. Slick.

works great removing steering wheels too!!!

X2, only way to go