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-   -   How to remove front PTO off 73 (https://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/showthread.php?t=36251)

garnold 12-16-2014 08:35 PM

How to remove front PTO off 73
 
I've been checking all over for steps on how to do this. Which manual describes the proper way to remove the pto and bearing plz. Thanks :-)

garnold 12-16-2014 09:16 PM

Ok, just another one of my rookie calls. I figured out how the set screws come out. And as always, the first 4 come out great then the top one of the last set seems striped 😁 I have it soaking in PB blaster hoping it breaks free. If not that then I'll see if an easy out can fit in there. Any other ideas?

Alvy 12-16-2014 09:43 PM

Gene the trick is to go back and forth with the stubborn ones, if you feel them start to tighten up then turn them back in and then turn out a little further. Each time going a little more. The bearing behind it has a locking collar that you have to turn CW to loosen as it is somewhat of an eccentric. Plenty of write ups on here with many tricks, tips, and oops now what's. Good luck and take your time. Breaking a set screw or stripping one adds a lot of time. I use a pitman arm puller to pull off Pto bearing

Jeff in Pa 12-16-2014 09:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by garnold (Post 300650)
Ok, just another one of my rookie calls. I figured out how the set screws come out. And as always, the first 4 come out great then the top one of the last set seems striped �� I have it soaking in PB blaster hoping it breaks free. If not that then I'll see if an easy out can fit in there. Any other ideas?

Make sure the allen / hex wrench has fresh corners. Grind the end if necessary to get good edges. ( do not get it hot or you will lose the temper )

I find KROIL works better than PB Blaster. A 50/50 mix of acetone and ATF works just as good as KROIL too.

If it is stripped, use a "F" drill ( .257 ) to make a spot on the top set screw. Just go far enough to get full diameter . Change to a 13/64" or 3/16" drill and SLOWLY drill thru the set screws. Use oil take your time. If the drill bit gets dull, resharpen or use a new/fresh on.

Once thru, use the 13/64 " thru the hole and then use a 1/4-20 NC tap to clean the threads. Purchase all new set screws when you reassemble.

I've already had my fun with stripped set screws :bash2:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v7...1.jpg~original

Jeff in Pa 12-16-2014 09:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Alvy (Post 300660)
Gene the trick is to go back and forth with the stubborn ones, if you feel them start to tighten up then turn them back in and then turn out a little further. Each time going a little more. The bearing behind it has a locking collar that you have to turn CW to loosen as it is somewhat of an eccentric. Plenty of write ups on here with many tricks, tips, and oops now what's. Good luck and take your time. Breaking a set screw or stripping one adds a lot of time. I use a pitman arm puller to pull off Pto bearing

I use this

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v7...1.jpg~original

Billy-O 12-16-2014 09:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jeff in Pa (Post 300661)
Make sure the allen / hex wrench has fresh corners. Grind the end if necessary to get good edges. ( do not get it hot or you will lose the temper )

I find KROIL works better than PB Blaster. A 50/50 mix of acetone and ATF works just as good as KROIL too.

If it is stripped, use a "F" drill ( .257 ) to make a spot on the top set screw. Just go far enough to get full diameter . Change to a 13/64" or 3/16" drill and SLOWLY drill thru the set screws. Use oil take your time. If the drill bit gets dull, resharpen or use a new/fresh on.

Once thru, use the 13/64 " thru the hole and then use a 1/4-20 NC tap to clean the threads. Purchase all new set screws when you reassemble.

I've already had my fun with stripped set screws :bash2:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v7...1.jpg~original

What does the frozen pizza have to do with the front PTO removal? :HeadScratch:

:biggrin2:

Jeff in Pa 12-16-2014 09:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Billy-O (Post 300666)
What does the frozen pizza have to do with the front PTO removal? :HeadScratch:

:biggrin2:

Parts box ( plus a guy has to eat :beerchug: )

Alvy 12-17-2014 05:52 PM

That's awesome Jeff. I spoke with Lew the other night about your basket pulley removal tool, did you ever add that one to the parts page? That bearing puller one is great, simple and effective. I just used a big posi lock puller to get a basket pulley off with some heat but it was tricky not to bend it, need to pull it from the middle hub area like yours

sawdustdad 12-17-2014 08:04 PM

garnold,

There are some videos on youtube that show how to remove the PTO.

Jeff in Pa 12-17-2014 08:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Alvy (Post 300742)
That's awesome Jeff. I spoke with Lew the other night about your basket pulley removal tool, did you ever add that one to the parts page? That bearing puller one is great, simple and effective. I just used a big posi lock puller to get a basket pulley off with some heat but it was tricky not to bend it, need to pull it from the middle hub area like yours

Yes, the PTO pulley puller is on my parts page.

garnold 12-17-2014 08:29 PM

And I plan to use the one I bought shortly :-)

garnold 12-17-2014 08:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jeff in Pa (Post 300661)
Make sure the allen / hex wrench has fresh corners. Grind the end if necessary to get good edges. ( do not get it hot or you will lose the temper )

I find KROIL works better than PB Blaster. A 50/50 mix of acetone and ATF works just as good as KROIL too.

If it is stripped, use a "F" drill ( .257 ) to make a spot on the top set screw. Just go far enough to get full diameter . Change to a 13/64" or 3/16" drill and SLOWLY drill thru the set screws. Use oil take your time. If the drill bit gets dull, resharpen or use a new/fresh on.

Once thru, use the 13/64 " thru the hole and then use a 1/4-20 NC tap to clean the threads. Purchase all new set screws when you reassemble.

I've already had my fun with stripped set screws :bash2:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v7...1.jpg~original

Got it off :-) Pretty much as you explained. The only difference was that I had some left handed drill bits that I used just for stuff like this. I was also lucky enough to get just the first screw out without damaging the one behind it. That second one I just unscrewed normally. Thank you.

garnold 12-17-2014 08:36 PM

1 Attachment(s)
now how about this bearing. I read that I need to hit this inner part clock wise to loosen it but it does not seem to have to place to hit that I have seen in other pics.

Jeff in Pa 12-17-2014 09:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by garnold (Post 300779)
now how about this bearing. I read that I need to hit this inner part clock wise to loosen it but it does not seem to have to place to hit that I have seen in other pics.

Look at my picture with the hand drill in it. Behind the bearing at about 11:00 is a shallow hole. That is what you hit with a punch to get the eccentric loose.

garnold 12-17-2014 09:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by garnold (Post 300779)
now how about this bearing. I read that I need to hit this inner part clock wise to loosen it but it does not seem to have to place to hit that I have seen in other pics.

This video was what I was looking for. Got it now I think.

129 cub cadet. Removal of clutch bearing and star…: http://youtu.be/mODDDUdxgdk

garnold 12-17-2014 09:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jeff in Pa (Post 300785)
Look at my picture with the hand drill in it. Behind the bearing at about 11:00 is a shallow hole. That is what you hit with a punch to get the eccentric loose.

Got ya. Thank you :-)

garnold 12-17-2014 09:27 PM

There was a set screw in this collar that I removed with a nut on it. I took that out because I think that also held the collar in place. Now I hit with a punch using that small hole as a target CCW correct? It's not moving so I just want to know if I can/should really give it a good whack. It's getting late here at the Cub repair shop which happens to be my garage directly under my daughter's bedroom so I'll have to hold off on the procedure till tomorrow.

Jeff in Pa 12-17-2014 09:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by garnold (Post 300791)
There was a set screw in this collar that I removed with a nut on it. I took that out because I think that also held the collar in place. Now I hit with a punch using that small hole as a target CCW correct? It's not moving so I just want to know if I can/should really give it a good whack. It's getting late here at the Cub repair shop which happens to be my garage directly under my daughter's bedroom so I'll have to hold off on the procedure till tomorrow.

Check to see if there is another hole 90* from the set screw and nut. If not, put the set screw and nut back in ( but not against ) and hit that so you don't mess up the threads.

garnold 12-17-2014 09:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jeff in Pa (Post 300792)
Check to see if there is another hole 90* from the set screw and nut. If not, put the set screw and nut back in ( but not against ) and hit that so you don't mess up the threads.

Yeah, that hole is there and is the one I was using to hit but was not sure how hard I can hit. Seems like the metal is already getting a little beat up and I have not gotten it to budge yet.

J-Mech 12-17-2014 09:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by garnold (Post 300791)
There was a set screw in this collar that I removed with a nut on it. I took that out because I think that also held the collar in place. Now I hit with a punch using that small hole as a target CCW correct? It's not moving so I just want to know if I can/should really give it a good whack. It's getting late here at the Cub repair shop which happens to be my garage directly under my daughter's bedroom so I'll have to hold off on the procedure till tomorrow.

If it was locked correctly, you need to turn it clockwise (when facing it). Yes, the set screw holds it in place.

Hit it!! BFH!

rbarri2 12-17-2014 09:52 PM

try hitting it in the other direction.
I did one last week and after going one direction, I tried hitting it the opposite way and it started to move. Soaking it with your favorite spray also helps.

garnold 12-17-2014 09:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by J-Mech (Post 300796)
If it was locked correctly, you need to turn it clockwise (when facing it). Yes, the set screw holds it in place.

Hit it!! BFH!

OK I'll try that tomorrow then. I only thought CCW because that is what the guy in the video I linked said he did. Maybe his was on wrong? So facing the engine whack the sucker CW. Roger :)

J-Mech 12-17-2014 10:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by garnold (Post 300799)
OK I'll try that tomorrow then. I only thought CCW because that is what the guy in the video I linked said he did. Maybe his was on wrong? So facing the engine whack the sucker CW. Roger :)

If it won't move, try both ways. I've had ones that were locked the wrong direction before. :beerchug:

garnold 12-19-2014 10:31 PM

I ended up using an air hammer against the shaft which vibrated the S/G pulley right off. Worked really great!


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