Restoring 126
 

Alright here are the pictures of our 126 ( in my intro post I left out my brother sorry bro). My brother and myself have these tractors together. I got the 129 and found the 126 on Craigslist. But he went to pick it up so now we are working together to restore the 126. We also have a 128 to restore. The 126 is really in better shape than our 128 (which is in pieces and damaged from a fallen tree). And how do you add more photos than just one? I have lots more!
We have removed the front tires and they are original but dry rotted. And one rim is rusted out where it was buried in dirt so we will need a new one. The tire size is 4.80/4.00-8. Will any of our sponsors have one of these rims? And we are in need of more parts but I will post that under "wanted section".

Rich at Patton Acres will prolly have a wheel, but his site is down for maintenance til Dec 20. When you load pics, you can simply add more pics to the same post by clicking the "browse" again.

Thanks. Yes I saw that his site was down.

He is prolly re-loading more parts into the site. Great guy to deal with IMO.

Update on 126
 

I have it BAD! Yellow fever! I am currently taking huge doses of buying (found a creeper gear for it), but I seem to be taking a turn for the worst. Rebuilt the starter generator and that helped just a bit. So today my brother and I are starting to take it apart in prep of painting. But that will probably only cause more problems:bigthink: Especially in the home department :bash: and right here at Christmas!

I got no idea how it spreads and progresses so readily.

Well I am trying to work off this yellow fever. My brother and myself disassembled the 126 today in prep of sand blasting the frame and transmission. Just one question, what needs to be done to the transmission beside changing the oil? Should we change all gaskets? It is very tight and not slop so there should be no reason for any work there. But I don't want to get it all painted and pretty just to find a leak. And I still can't figure out how to add more than one photo at a time. I have lots more.

How much you do is really up to you. I usually remove the rear cover, drain and replace the hytran, cleaning any sludge from the bottom of the axle case. Remove the C clips on the axle shafts, pull the axles out and replace the seals in the ends of the axle carriers/housings. Others will pull the axle carriers/housings, and drill drain holes to let fluid drain back into the main case, but I don't do that. Put it all back together, wire brush/sand, prime, repaint. On a rusty rear end, you can use a rust converter prior to priming. That's about it.

How far are you from Roanoke VA?? I got some stuff that you might need.

This one is still here 'cause it has a creeper,,,,,,,,

http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/...424640x424.jpg

Send me a PM,,,,,

Do not sand blast the transmission, rear end or axle tubes sand will get into places you don't want it getting in.

I use a needle scaler on the transmission, axles, etc. Runs on compressed air.
http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/p...pictureid=5926

[QUOTE=CADplans;300992]How far are you from Roanoke VA?? I got some stuff that you might need.

This one is still here 'cause it has a creeper,,,,,,,,


Man yes I need some things!!!! Maybe that will help with this yellow fever. I am not but about 2 half 3 hours from Roanoke.

PM sent.

And thanks to everyone for the info. Ok no sand on rear end. And we probably will just replace the rear plate gasket after we change the oil. It seems to be the only one that has been leaking in the past.

It will be fine. I've painted quite a few machines. Sandblasted the entire machine with no issues. Just don't be stupid about it. Water blasting is the cleanest way.

Rear gasket change will happen DURING your oil change. Have a new one on hand before you tackle that. Pull a straight-edge over your rear plate to check if the bolt holes have deformed. Hammer peen it back flat if needed. I use perma-tex gasket sealer...which is basically a dark brown tar-like glue. Lots of folks just put the gasket back on dry and never have any trouble.

Agreed, my ghost edition original and then blasting again what was missed. Flush and drain what has oil in it and no worries.

Attachment 59879

Dang, upside down again, I gotta learn how to fix this stuff

You fellers have at it. I've seen machines come back after being painted from three different blasters and just way to much sand left behind in the nooks and crannies. You can try and flush it all out and it'll still be there when you're done.
Different strokes for different folks.:bigthink:

I hear you Todd, but It's completely disassembled now including the engine, just thought about doing this one differently and I have to say it takes a lot of the prep times down, it had so many layers to begin with it was ridiculous.

Thanks, my brother has one of those. But we are probably just pressure washing primeing and painting the rear end. Sandblasting the rest. He and I restored a old Troybuilt tiller last summer that turned out great. Reworked the engine, transmission, and tines and he used that scaler on lot of the smaller parts.