Removing Broken Pin from Implement Lift
 

On my 125, I have a broken pin for the release rod (push button for implement lift) and I wonder how I can get it off?

Attachment 59314

Below is a picture of the spare release pin I plan to replace the broken one. The red arrow points where the old pin has broken off. The part of the push pin to the left is still threaded to the release rod inside the lift handle.

Attachment 59313

What I have done so far was to remove the ratchet from the implement lift assembly in hopes that I may be able to push up the lift rod enough to grip the broken pin and unthread it from the release rod. It pushes up just barely enough to just about reach the top of the handle tube. I can grip it with long nose vise grip but not a regular vise grip or pliers. The long nose pliers (vise-grip) is too springy and doesn't hold so good when I try to unthread the broken pin. Very close but no dice!

Has anybody any ideas or suggestions? Hopefully, someone here has been down this road before! Thanks for looking and any help is much appreciated!

In situations like this I have had good luck building up the end of a bolt with weld (NOT mig) until I can grab it with regular vise-grips. I say not mig because it doesn't burn hot enough at the very start to get a good weld and will break off right at the start of the weld most of the time. I usually use a torch, but I have had good luck with a stick welder too. Just add to the stem until it sticks up a 1/2" or so above the tube. Be sure to pull the rubber grip off before you start or you may melt it.

You must not have used a MIG much. It will work fine.

I use migs for sheetmetal a lot, but I haven't had good luck in this type of situation. I have to remove a lot of bolts from 1/4" - 1/2" that are broken off well below the surface of a cast iron part and the wire can touch a thread above the bolt where a stick won't arc as easily. In this case a mig will probably work ok.

I get broken bolts out all the time with a MIG. Never have an issue, or bad luck.

Guess I'm just arguing here for no real reason. Point I'm trying to make is, if you know how to use a MIG, you will seldom pick up an arc welder. Both welders have their place. Just like all tools. I'll bow out. I really wasn't trying to debate. :beerchug:

Me neither. Sorry, I guess it did look like it I was though. I was just trying to point out my past experience.

We don't have a "like" button, so I guess we'll go with a :ThumbsUp:

I'm going to toss this out as a possibility, I say possibility because I have not done what I'm suggesting so here goes. Remove the rubber grip, take a pipe cutter and cut the tube just below the broken part so that you can get at it, remove the broken part then weld the tube back together, grind the weld smooth so the rubber grip will fit back over the weld.

Personally, I really hate not being able to repair something that is broken, however in this situation you may be better off finding a good used lift handle/rock shaft assembly.

I am also not sure that the broken button you have is not some type of pot metal that you may not be able to weld on.

Not sure how much room you have, but it may also be possible to drill straight down through the sides of the remaining part of the button 180 degrees from each other (with a small drill bit), then brace the bottom of the rod and break the button with a small chisel or tapered punch. It may be impossible to do without damaging the threads on the rod though.

OR, you may be able to use a small rotary file to "grind" a couple of notches in the top part of the remaining button (180 degrees from each other) that you can get the jaws of your needle nose vice grips into allowing you a better grip.

In any event it will most likely be a tedious operation.

Good luck.

check out this thread:
http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ead.php?t=1980

The #5 rod is threaded into the #9 button that broke on yours.

What if you could wedge a very small flat blade screw driver in between #9 button and the #4 tube.
Good enough that you could maybe turn the #5 rod out of the button?

Might take a lot of luck.

The lift handle on the Narrow Frame tractors don't come apart like the Wide Frame ones do and I don't think the "L" shaped rod will turn in the assembly.

drill it out and use an easy out BTDT
Hint....drill a tiny hole first till you hit the top of the rod,then drill the bigger hole.Then fill that with PB blaster and let it soak.

I've done what sam mac mentioned a few times and it works fine

On my 73 the rod was bent, so I pulled the rockshaft and cut the lift handle off and pulled the rod out the bottom.Did all my rework and welded it back in place.

Mine broke off on my 104 about a year ago and I could barely get needle nose vise grips on it. So I sprayed down inside the tube with blaster and let it soak. I was then able to use my 4 1/2 " grinder and take off 1/4 " off the top of the tube to allow me to get the needle nose vise grips on it to remove it. I cant tell if your old button has enough to get the needle nose grips on it. But thats how I got my old one off. Otherwise you will need to take off the lift handle and remove it from the bottom side where you will be able to remove the insides easier. After I got it all put back together I welded a bead to bring the height on the shaft back up and grinded it smoothe then added some paint to keep it from rusting then put the handgrip back in place. Hope this helps...

There's a lot great ideas here and I appreciate this. My biggest dilemma is my mig welder is 120 miles away right at my Dad's farm in PA.

I'll try some of the simpler suggestions and if all else fails, either the cub is going for a ride or I'm getting my welder back. I'll let you know how this turns out. Thanks for the suggestions.

It's Out!
 

I got the broken pin out!

Attachment 59519

With my welder being over 100 miles away, I needed to resort to a different method. I went to Home Depot and bought a cheap one-dollar-fifty-cent 1/4 drive Husky socket and grinded out something of a toothy end like we see on a spanner wrench. Note how the points were grinded leaving the beefy teeth.

Attachment 59521

I then drilled a couple of sloppy "holes" on both sides of the broken lift release push button pin for something that my homemade spanner socket teeth can sink into and grab the part. It's sloppy because it was awkward to get started in the small and tight space on the "edge" of the pin. I started out with 1/8 inch drill bit and moved up to 3/16 drill bit.

Attachment 59518

It came out with little effort! It was cheap and took about 10 minutes to do once I got home from the store.

The whole lot of you provided me some great ideas and it sure did help lead me into this method..... I really appreciate the help. Thank You!

Great idea! Good job:ThumbsUp:

I'm gonna remember this idea. Way to go! :beerchug:

Billy-O is a thinker... He's gonna fit in here just fine!

:beerchug:Great idea! Nice job

Simple and very effective, great idea! I see this post being reference for the next guy that asks. :beerchug:

Bill

I've used an angle grinder with a thin wheel and cut a screw driver slot in the end if it sticks up high enough.

Richard

Good idea, if it works.:beerchug:

That was very smart.
I am always impressed on the various ways people can fix something with what they have on hand.
Versus a special tool commercially made only for that one purpose.

Just wanted to add that an easy out worked for me on my 1250. Maybe I got lucky. I was able to unscrew the broken button recessed in the handle with no other work needed. If it hadn't come out this way I would have cut the end off the rod and pushed the whole thing out the top. Then would replace the rod as well as the button.

This is one heck of a design. I have the factory service manual for the tractor but there is no mention of the lift handle. I was able to figure it out from an exploded diagram on a parts site and searching posts on CC forums.