982D alternator retrofit wiring
 

got this alternator to retrofit my 982d it didnt come with the plug. i can use blade connectors while waiting for the new plug to show up. the big lug goes to the battery and one of the two others goes to ground and i think the other goes to the big red lug? one end of the black plug looks to say 1G is this the grounded one? in the wiring diagram the red and yellow wire goin to rectifier has to be remove. one of them has to hook to new alternator anyone have a clue wich one?

It depends. What brand is the alternator? Or, do you know what other applications it fits?

Most 2 wire alternators use a keyed feed and power. Some need a resistor like a light bulb. Really need more info.

J its a kubota alt r310 v1305 16231-64010 came off ebay got part numbers off andys thread http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=29767 he did this to his 1772 i got it off epay http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-ALTERNAT...item53eb04c12c does this help J?

Yep that helps. It's not a 1G.... it's IG. For "ignition". You can power the other wire off the alternator main lug. If that doesn't work let us know.

so if i read the diagram rite i want to hook that to the acc lug/yellowwire on keyswitch that used to go to the old rectifire/regulator. if i hook the big lug on alt to lug 30 on the key switch/the old red wire from rectifire/regulator would that not keep my ammeter working? this alt is supposta be 40 amp would that be too much for ammeter?

The ammeter doesn't care about amps. It will work. (Not entirely true, but it should be fine. I doubt you ever use the extra 10 amps) The fuse will protect it. Don't run it through the key though, it won't hack the load. (If all 40 amps were to run through it.) Run a wire direct from the alternator to the ammeter and by-pass the key. You will still need a wire from the ammeter to the key switch though. Just don't feed the main charge wire through it. I'd suggest at least 8 awg wire also. 6 is what I would use, but 8 should be fine.
Yes, the yellow wire (acc terminal of the key) will be fine to use as the exciter.

thanks J thats what i needed to know

Cool.

Let us know when it's up and working! :beerchug:

alternator up and working thanks for your help. ill post some pics later... also found my exhaust manifold broken only had one ear still attached 107 at cub and 65 at kubota. as im laid off now money is tight so out came the brazing rod and i got it back together ... alittle work with a long file to flatten it back out and im back in business. as long as it holds till work starts back up in spring ill be ok. again pics later

I need to do this upgrade to my 1572 soon. With the PTO, headlights and extra lights for blowing snow the stocker can't keep up. My ammeter only shows a charge when I shut the lights off.

Glad you got it going! :beerchug:


Well.... it's keeping up then. If it doesn't show discharge, it is keeping up. Is it charging the battery..... no. FWIW, I've ran 6 lights total on my 1811 for almost 10 years. (Same amount of charging ability.) I have to let the machine run for a while at the end of the day with everything off to keep the battery charged. If I don't, after a few days, it will go dead. Basically, charging system keeps up, but doesn't leave any to charge the battery. Bigger alternator is not a choice for me. Is for you so, get-er-done! :biggrin2:

as promised heres a few pics. J this seems weird to me the other wire on the plug is the sense wire i hooked this to battery POS terminal instead of the lug rite at alt. have noticed the back of alt. is warm not hot when it isnt running if i unhook this wire and wait a few hours its all cool. have unhooked the neg terminal on the battery with this wire hooked up and it wont lite a test lite so i dont think there is a draw on battery... at least not enuff to lite a test light. have also noticed the alternator works just fine with this wire unhooked. what would you do leave it unhooked. anywhoo heres a few pics

I went off a pin out I got off of the net for that alternator, so honestly I was guessing that it needed battery voltage on that pin. Most GM style alternators do.... If it works with it off, and the alt stays cool when it is, I'd leave it off.

sounds good to me thanks again J

I found these. This spiked my curiosity.

thats why i ran the wire all the way to the battery

Yep. And that's a GM alternator. I agree with the diagram. I can show you one where the second wire is ran to the output terminal of the alternator. (Hope that makes sense.) I am not too up on my Japanese alternators..... LOL. Like I said, if it works, I think your fine. If you want I can research it more. :bigthink: I just worked on a Kioti the other day. Had a the same alt you just put on yours on it with the v-reg bypassed. It was wired like you did yours. One wire from the key, one to the battery. I didn't look at it, as it came in for a head gasket repair. I kinda fumbling here..... if you hooked up a test light and checked for draw and there was none..... you also disconnected it and it still charged.... I'm not sure that it matters one way or another. :Unknown: :HeadScratch:

I just got my alternator hooked up tonight. I was able to use the same belt so no taking out the driveshaft. This is a Denso style alternator. All you need to hook up is the charge wire on the lug and a switched 12v to the IG terminal to excite the alternator. The other terminal is only needed if you want a charge light. This is how mine is hooked up and it charges great.