Hydro issue? 149
 

So, I'm running my new to me 149 today and all is well. After going from forward to reverse the lever does nothing when I try go back to forward. The lever feels the same. But nothing happens. I check the deck lift and it doesn't lift.

This is all new to me and I don't even know how to get to the lever behind the dash.

Anyone have any suggestions?

Thanks in advance.

Bill

It sounds to me like you need to check your spiral pin. If you lost movement and hydraulic lift, then your pump isn't getting power. Pull the tunnel cover and check your drive shaft. Download your service manual from the technical section for further instructions :beerchug:

Edit: BTW, welcome!!

Thank you! I'll take a look tomorrow.

Bill

You were correct. The pin at the engine was missing.

However, when I started the engine I think I found the reason the pin broke.

There is an engine knock that wasn't there before and it seems as though where the drive shaft hooks to the engine (fly wheel?) it has a wobble in the rotation.

So, does this sound like a bad crank in the engine? Or any other ideas?

Again, thanks in advance.

Bill

There is a hub bolted to the fly wheel where the dive shaft couples. This hub is held on by four bolts. Maybe it is loose. Take off the side panels to gain access to this area of the engine to check.

Also, the hub may be worn. The slot where the drive shaft (pin end) is inserted will wallow out over time. This something to look at.

I doubt that the crank shaft is wobbling. If it were me, I would go through and do an engine clean up and tune up. Clean the entire engine, remove and clean or rebuild the carb, check the timing, replace points and condenser if needed, check the coil, check the valve lash, clean or replace the breather element and gaskets, install a new spark plug and wire, install new air filter, check the battery, clean all electrical connections.

Once you get the engine running well, then you can start to go through the hydro and its controls.

Also, go to the technical library section and read up on decarbonizing the engine and replacing the head gasket. Doing these procedures will give you a chance to see the general condition of the cylinder and piston. Once you get the top of the piston clean, you will be able to see if it is standard size or oversized. This will give you some insight on to the repair history of the engine.

Don't forget to change the motor oil. It holds 1.5 quarts. It is very important not to overfill the oil pan.

WHOA! Holy cow man! He was asking about the driveshaft not engine problems!! :bigeyes: No reason to do all that if it's running fine. Let's focus on the problems at hand and not go on a goose chase man.

However you were right on about the hub and shaft being worn. This is more than likely the culprit. Check the hub and the shaft first, let's not get carried away with the motor just yet. If you find the hub is worn, let us know. JeffinPA on here makes new driveshafts.

Thanks to both of you. I'll check out the hub and see how it looks and let you know.

Bill

Well, you know since I'm down there replacing a busted pin on the outside of the engine, I might as well do a motor overhaul......you know, just in case.

ever see the guys with all those absolutely beautiful cub cadets that have been restored to better than new condition???? thats how it started....

I've never heard of such a thing...

:ScrewLoose:

I don't think that suggesting that the man clean up the engine, change the oil, and check or replace a few key components is going too far.

Also, I did preface my suggestions by saying, "If it were me, I'd..."

It would stand to reason that if you buy a 42 year old used garden tractor, you probably need to do a little maintenance. I did not tell him to rebuild the engine. In fact, I said it is probably not a bad crank shaft.

There is one thing I know for sure. If you don't perform routine maintenance, you are headed toward a rebuild sooner than later.

My advice is focused on three points. Number 1: Clean the engine so it does not over heat during operation. Number 2: Freshen up the ignition system so you get maximum performance. Number 3: Freshen up the carburetor so you get the proper fuel flow for maximum performance.

You can cut corners, but why would you want to? If you want a "turn key" tractor, there are plenty of brand new ones to choose from.

I love the 149. I only want what's best for those that remain in service.

All good things to do, if they need done. Point is, the question wasn't: "My motor is running bad, what do I need to do?" It was a driveshaft question. If your going to say all that he just as well replace the wheel bearings, pull the rear end and replace all the seals and gaskets, rebuild the steering column, on and on...... If it isn't running bad, leave it alone. If it is, then do all that stuff.

Now, if you buy a machine that has been sitting for a few years or doesn't run at all, then sure, pull it apart. But if it runs good, change the oil, check the plug, clean the fuel filter and run it. I'm fine with fixing stuff, when the time comes. :beerchug:

Above is what he wrote. He asked for any other ideas, so I gave him a few suggestions. He is clearly stating that the engine is not running well. I'm merely suggesting that he give it a cleaning and a basic tune up. The stuff I'm suggesting is a weekend project. I enjoy working on my Cubs. I assume others do as well.

No, he is stating it has a knock now after the driveshaft was reinstalled. Which is more than likely the loose driveshaft. None of the things you suggest would be a knock. They are "tune up" things. He never said it didn't run well. I too enjoy working on my cubs. But I don't just take them apart "because".

Do you consider decarbonizing the head and piston "taking it apart". I don't.

When I buy a "new to me" Cub, I want to know what I've got. I want to know that the combustion chamber is clean, I want to know that the spark plug is new and gapped correctly, I want to know that the points are not pitted and corroded, I want to know that the timing is set precisely, I want to know that the carburetor jets are open and unvarnished and that the float is leveled correctly, I want to know that the air filter is clean, I want to know the motor oil is fresh and of good quality, I want to know if the cylinder has been bored, I want to know that the valve lash is gapped correctly, I want to know that all of my electrical connections are clean and tight, I want to know that the cooling fins are free of dirt and debris, etc.

None of these things involve what I would consider a major disassembly of the engine or the tractor. I believe what I've provided is sound advice to a "new to me" Cub owner. Anyone who is interested in these old machines must own a few tools and enjoy turning a wrench. For less than $100 in parts, a man could complete this project in one weekend of blissful tinkering!

And yes, eventually I will rebuild the steering column. I will check and adjust the disk brakes. I will track down every leak and fix it. I will get a new seat. I will replace the cracked belt on that mower deck before it fails. I will clean the fins on that dirty hydro pump, I will replace that cooling fan on the drive shaft with two blades missing. I will weld and file that hydro trunnion. I will put tubes in those leaky front tires. I will do it all.

What I've just described above is, for me, the joy of owning a 42 year old American classic.

One further point of clarification. I would never perform a service or repair that I did not think was necessary. We all know that preventive maintenance goes a long way toward mitigating more costly repairs down the road. Why wait for it to break?

Listen Sharky, you are completely missing the boat here.

If you came into my shop and told me about a u-joint problem you were having with your truck and I told you how you needed to take the motor apart and tune it up, maybe pull the intake and clean it because they're bad about carboning up..... replace the spark plugs, tune it up. You would be like: "But, I just was asking about a u-joint. What's that got to do with the engine?" Do you follow? Advice is good. Relative advice is better. If this thread was about an engine problem, then I would agree. It's not, so lets try to keep it within the problematic area shall we?

I disagree, but we can agree to disagree.

Right. Which is why I suggested he check the drive shaft hub first.

That "knock" is more likely a miss, which would be corrected with a good tune up and/or timing reset and or carburetor cleaning, etc.

If you say so. I seriously doubt it but we'll see.

Weird ive never heard a miss sound like a knock...he also stated that the "knock" started after it launched the driveshaft pin....throwing breaking or otherwise losing that pin in no way shape or form so cause a knock all of a sudden.... my guess is that pin eather broke or fell out years ago and the PO simply replaced it with a bolt...I've done the myself a time or two in a pinch and I can speak from experience that if its not a locking type nut it will not stay in there long and will shoot out suddenly....who would also wear out the slot/hole in a short amount of time.... im betting a new driver and/or shaft will cure this issue.

This is why I love internet forums. You either get 1)no information/help when you ask a question or 2)flooded with a whole lot of opinions and ideas that snowball. Its up to the original poster to do what they will with the information or lack there of.

My son the non-mechanic, lives in Kansas, But I live in KY. He calls with a "mechanical question", and I reply. "I cannot diagnose mechanics over the phone, any more than a medical Dr can. I can only give some thoughts as to some things to look for."
Some things to look for vs., some things to do, is where the discussions tend to get out of hand. :bigthink:

I do it all the time. People think it's awesome when you can fix stuff and not even be there. I've even walked people through a repair over the internet (this site) or over the phone all from memory. Experience is the ultimate tool.

Example: My brother called me one day. Said his fuel pump quit in his truck. Started asking how to test it and ultimately replace it. I asked some questions about when it quit and such. Then I asked him to see if he had tail lights on the truck. When he checked he said, "That's weird.... they were working." Told him there was a ground at the rear of the frame that the tail lights and the fuel pump share. He said he'd check it and call me back. A few min later he called and said he now had tail lights and a fuel pump again.

Diagnosing when you aren't there depends on several things, but mostly it's you and your ability to go to the level of the guy on the other end of the line. Can you take what you know and explain it in a way that they understand, and then take the info they give you and put it back into something useful to you. It also requires extensive knowledge of the machine at hand, or at least the problem at hand. It's hard to fix stuff and not be there. Sounds can't easily be explained, simple things that you would notice can't be seen. It's tough, but it can be done if the person on the other end does EXACTLY as you tell them to, in the order they are told.


To the OP: Let us know what you find on the driveshaft.

I have yet to source a pin. Hopefully I can find one over the weekend.

Yes, this is the beauty of inet forums. Lots of viewpoints on lots of subjects.

I appreciate everyone's input.

Thanks,
Bill

The picture should be available from just about any cub cadet dealer dont hold me to this but I think its 1/4 x2 inches hardened steel Dowell.... might wanna make sure before going and buying though

Again, I thank everyone for their ideas and comments.

The drive shaft hole is too large to hold the pin. So I'll need to find the gentleman who makes new driveshafts.

For the time being, I fabbed a bolt and nut. Didn't tighten it much. Left a little play. And I used loctite.

After I get it ready to trial run, I start it up and it starts and then cuts off and now doesn't do anything when I turn the key to start.

Any suggestions? I didn't have time to troubleshoot today. If you have any ideas as to where to start, I'd appreciate it.

Thanks,
Bill