108 clutch information please
 

OK sorry for this silly question but I'm getting two different views on the parts that make up the 108 clutch. In the manual there is a spacer near the teaser spring and another with a zerk fitting on it that goes before the spring. On the parts tree image both of those parts are missing? I'm rebuilding my clutch and just want to make sure I do this correctly. Also, can I please confirm that the overall length of a drive shaft being used with a creeper is 14-5/8" long? Jeff is building a new driveshaft for me and just want to confirm these measurements. Thanks again!

Check partstree.com for your model, there is a spacer and a teaser spring. The version with the zerk fitting is from a different (later?) model I think.

Parts Tree does not show those parts for my model but the manual does. I realize that the manual will cover multiple models but this part does not seem to be noted as not for my model. Since it goes in front of the spring I'm guessing it would effect the tension of the spring so I don't want to screw this up.

Just check another site and they also seem to have these two parts in a 108 clutch so I'm leaning to putting them in but would love to get some more feed back please. J-Tech your thoughts?

Looking at all the parts blow-outs for the different models, I'd say that you are looking at the wrong one for your machine. SDD (Frank) is correct. The pics you are looking at are for a new model.

That said, the main springs in all the tractors show the same part number. So do the thro-out bearings. If you want to install that bushing with the grease fitting, I don't see any reason why you can't. It's not a bad idea, and I don't think it will hurt. But..... keep in mind, new it around $50. A lot of machines out there don't have it. Not sure it's worth $50. AFAIC, it's your choice. I don't know that it matters one way or the other. Lew would know the length of the driveshaft with a creeper. Jeff also should. I do not know. I don't have any machines with a creeper to go measure.

The exploded view that you posted is for a Quiet Line tractor and has been modified from the original version by the owner of the site that this illustration came from.

The correct length drive shaft for a 108 with a creeper is 14 1/2".

According to my research, some Wide Frame tractors (86, 108 and 128) came with the spacer and some did not (I'm guessing that somewhere during production there was a change, but I can find no information on when this change was made).

In any event, spacer/s or not, this does not affect the over-all length of the shaft, it does however change the location of the third hole in the shaft.

It is my opinion that you should, either send your old shaft to whoever is making the new one so that it can be duplicated (best option), or accurately measure the exact distance from center to center of the 2nd and 3rd holes and send this information to the maker.

Here is the link for the correct drive shaft/clutch exploded view for your machine (which is the exact same illustration that Cub Cadet uses on their parts site). http://www.partstree.com/parts/?lc=c...&dn=0012400012

Sam can you please post that link you just mentioned. If it does not mater whether I use that spacer and other spacer with the zerk in it I will just leave them out and go with the items in the picture you are talking about. From the points you and J-Mech are making I should really be pretty safe without them and want to keep things as simple as I can :) Thank you for your help!

Gene,
maybe this will help,
after the teaser spring goes the plate, clutch disc, plate

Thank you Lew. From your pic it looks like your release lever looks like mine but can you confirm that they should be bent like this on the end. Thank you.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B3t...it?usp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B3t...it?usp=sharing

Mine is the same way.

OK cool. One less thing to have to buy :)

While I have things apart is it worth putting a kevlar disc in? I'm going to put in a blue spring rather then stock. What I'm worried about is this clutch engaging to fast and not giving me the chance to ease into gear. The tractor is basically only used to pull loads around the property and plow snow. I realize my driveway is not a monster but it's pretty wide. With the snow we get up here I'm expecting this tractor is going to have to push some pretty good amounts of snow so I looking to get everything prep'd best I can.

Keep it stock. That's what the teaser spring is for, to ease into full engagement.

More important is the amount of wear on the throw out lever where it meets the bearing {the rounded portions)
Is there a lot? If so, are the surfaces evenly worn? Or lopsided, thin on one side and thick on the other?
This will cause premature T/O bearing failure IMHO.

Is the pivot bolt about worn through? How about the holes it passes through? Are they all hogged out and worn? This will cause lopsided T/O bearing engagement also.

This area, again, IMHO, is an area that calls for greater bearing surface area, room for modification & improvement.

Its not a bad idea to beef up the clutch on a plow tractor, my 108 started to slip pushing the heavy snow we got last year and that was with a brand new clutch and a nos spring.

All other parts are looking pretty good. The leaver has little wear at all on it. The pivot bolt is just fine and so is the hanger for the clutch. The main reason for the rebuild is not because the PO really used the tractor much but that the disc just got brittle and was falling apart and the pressure discs where all rusted. Since I have it apart I just thought I would replace stuff and make some upgrades here and there. I have a new bearing going in and teaser spring. Jeff is making me a new drive shaft and I bought that blue spring. My plates have been refaced and the driver pins look pretty good. Really not much were on the other moving parts. I bought a stock disc but since I'm going to be moving snow and after some reading I just thought I would ask you folks about the kevlar one. It's going to be a lot easier to put the kevlar disc in now then in my driveway in the freezing cold later if I'm wrong :(

108 clutch should have the spacer or you geometry will be off. # 20 If I remember it's 1/2 inch wide

http://www.partstree.com/parts/?lc=c...&dn=0118500010

Thank you. Yes I agree and will make sure this spacer is placed back into the clutch. Hoping the next time this gets worked on it's because my daughter's have kids and those little buggers are playing with grandpa's tractor HAHAHA

Pushed plenty of snow with the stock clutch disc. My first disk lasted 30 years. You'll spin the rear wheels with chains on them before the clutch will slip. Unless the Kevlar disc is cheaper, I see no reason to change. YMMV.

Kevlar is cheaper ( at least $10) and the hotter it gets the better it grabs.

Where are you getting your Kevlar discs?

I keep saying to look at MWSC website.

Here's their clutch disk: http://www.mcssl.com/store/midwestsu...te-clutch-disc


Gene, FWIW, Mark Hellrung, and some others including MWSC offer complete new clutch set-ups for very fair prices. Why not just buy a new compete set-up and bolt it in?

I actually just bought one from mwsc and things did not work out well. They make a very good product and I don't want to dis them on a public forum because I'm sure I'll buy from then again but this time around things did not go great.

A complete set up? Or parts? If you don't feel comfortable on the open forum PM me, I'm interested to hear the story. MWSC is pretty reputable..... :bigthink:

Mid West Super Cub

So all the parts are in and the old ones cleaned and painted! Hope to have this clutch together and in soon :-)

Clutch is working great! My drive shaft from Jeff was perfect. No wobble and runs smooth.

Put it together with the help of my friends press and a nice little jig he made for me.

Glad it worked out, remove that grade 8 bolt from the driveshaft coupler and install the correct spirol pin or it will wallow out the new shaft and coupler.

You think? I had read good things about this approach.

I've read about that "mod" and it seems to be popular with the pullers so they can change parts faster if needed.

The spirol pin is what it was designed.

~~~~~~~~~~

Glad you're happy with the driveshaft. It better run true for what I have to pay for that 4140 steel rod. :bigeyes:

Well I'm hoping not to have to remove this so maybe I'll put the pins in.

I think that would be a good idea.