New to me "Original"
 

I just picked up an Original yesterday. I was told it's a '62, but I'm not good at deciphering the numbers yet. The number is 34195.
It does need a resto, but it's all there. No parts are missing. It's just what I was looking for-something I can tinker with. The pan seat isn't cracked, it runs good, doesn't smoke and it goes through all the gears just fine.
I plan on painting it, but I'm in no hurry. I figure I'll take it apart little by little and fix it up. As I'm not familiar with these tractors, I'll need a few pointers on some things. Here's my first questions:
The clutch pedal is a bit stiff. Is this normal? Or does it need adjusted? The gears ingage fine, just the pedals stiff...hard to push down.
It needs new throttle and choke cables. I'd like to find the original style that it came with. Where can these be had? Are there new ones made of the same style, or am I limited to used? I'll post a couple pics. Let me know what you guys think.

http://i1345.photobucket.com/albums/...ps2bd2f192.jpg

http://i1345.photobucket.com/albums/...psfa213002.jpg

http://i1345.photobucket.com/albums/...ps1f0265dd.jpg

Looks great, O's have become one of my favorite models. What's up with the cables? Knobs missing or stiff? They can be easily unstuck with some patience and PB. Good score

Congrats on the original.

Congratulations on your new Original.

As much as I like my higher HP tractors, I really love my Originals, They are just so darn much fun to drive.

I suspect you will grow to love yours as well.

congrats on the original . i would like one of those one day.

I've seen some Cubs with a "T" style handle on the throttle is why I asked. I did get it working though. It does bind up where the small clamp is near the exhaust port. Still messing with that one. I took it for a couple laps around the yard and you have to help the clutch pedal up in order to take off. If you don't move it up with your foot, the pedal comes up very slow.
Keep in mind I've never split a tractor, so I don't know about the clutch and if something is sticking inside or if it's dirty from all the years of use.
That's as far as I got today, as I had other things to do.
The more I mess with it, the more I'll learn about it.
Thank you all for the compliments.

Nice find on the O.

Download the manual from the tech section. Check under the tractor to see if the clutch spring is still there and attached, or if there's anything rusted on the inside of the frame where the clutch/brake pedal goes through.

Nice Original. The clutch/brake pedal has a return spring. Chech yours to see if it is original or not. There is a grease fitting on the clutch and two springs, make sure all is free and lubed but make sure the clutch plates get none on them. Pedal should not be that hard to press, here is a pic of my daughter on her Original. Look what she is using to push the pedal!!

http://i1073.photobucket.com/albums/...440FFCA9D0.png

I saw that bare foot youngin in another thread. That right there tells me how easy it should be. I'll check it out in a few days.
I was looking at portable sand blasters and found one for $130. I forget the specifics, but it'd sure be handy. I also would like to buy new gaskets and seals and wheel bushings, so I'm still trying to locate all that stuff. After all that's in, I'll start breaking it down for paint.

Gaskets seals and wheel bushings were all available at my local Cub Cadet dealer. My dealer surprisingly had most all of them in stock. The pedal return spring is the only part I found so far that I needed that wasn't available. My original return spring broke a few days ago and I was able to find a close match at Farm and Fleet.

Thanks for the info. I'll check in with the local guy and see what he has.

Does anyone have a somewhat close up pic of the throttle cable where it connects to the governor/linkage?
My cable is freed up, but when I install it back into the engine side and put cable clamp back on the arm near the exhaust port, it binds up. I've messed with it till I had to get away from it. Something so simple turns into aggravation...

I am actually running into that same issue and that is with a replacement cable. It works smoothly for part of the throttle but binds on the top end. I have fiddled with it on and off for a couple of days but still have not resolved it.

That's how I got mine too. Just part throttle. If I can't get it to function properly, I'll come up with something else. It may not be original, but it'll work like it should.

I'll try to get a pic of mine for you guys. I had to put a bend in the cable end as I recall to get it to operate correctly.

Pics as promised, hope it helps.

Thanks Sam. The arm that's hold the cable clamp on mine is not pointed down like yours. It's pointed up towards the exhaust 90. I knew if I could roll that arm down, the cable would work right. But, I can't get the arm to swing down like yours. Do I have to loosen something so I can move the arm?

Download the engine service manual.
http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ead.php?t=4646

Looks like you loosen what they call the bushing nut to move the bracket. Think it's around page 6.26. I never played with the one I have.

Yes the bushing nut has a shoulder on it and that arm is just held in there with pressure on it from the nut. All part of the governor adjustment procedure

I got the throttle cable lined out. It has a few leaking gaskets, so I removed the sediment bowl (leaks), carb....all gaskets there leak, breather was leaking and absolutely filthy inside. Looks like it had carbon in the area where the valves stems and springs are. Cleaned all that and ordered all new gaskets. Figured I'd remove the head and clean the top end off while I'm at it, so I ordered a new head gasket. The float bowl had sand in the bottom. The oil bath cleaner had a mix of oil and water in it, so I cleaned that too. Weird thing is, the tractor could sit for days and instantly fire up and run just fine without being choked. I'm surprised it runs as good as it does since I found all the sand in the float bowl.
Next up is an oil change and rear fluid change. It doesn't leak any oil from anywhere and the rear end doesn't leak, so I should be good on replacing with what I said above.
After all that, I'll order a decal kit, wheel bushings, all new tires and hopefully start breaking it down for paint. Oh, and I figure I'll replace the belts too, since they look like they have quite a bit of age to them.

Does anyone know where I can get that "rubber bushing" that mounts to the dash that holds the steering column centered in the dash? It's just below the steering wheel.

Place a wanted add or one of the sponsors may have one. I placed a wanted add and got mine a couple years ago from a member. Good luck:beerchug:

Thanks, Zippy. Did I call it the right name? I'd hate to post a wanted add and call it the wrong thing and throw people off...

Another question:

What size are the front wheel bearings/bushings in my 127 and my Original?
I can't find the info.

Got it back together last night and it fired right up instantly! I guess I had the carb settings right for start up.
Only bad thing is that the sediment bowl is leaking where the fuel on/off threaded deal threads into the casting. Now, I'm on the search for a new shaft gasket.....

Congrats
 

Leaks in the sediment bowl and around the fittings are a perpetual issue for "O" owners. They can be overcome but it's a common problem.

You've got a really nice O...they're strong and sturdy little tractors.

I got the gaskets for the steering col and dash off of Ebay.... there's probably still a seller there with them. On the other hand I never gor the *$)#*$ steering wheel to come off so I still have that part!

John

Napa sells a complete replacement sediment bowl and had it in stock when I got mine a few months ago. It was an exact replacement and I believe it was under $20. It fit perfect and looks original.

Thanks, guys.
I found a column grommet from a member here. It should be here in the next day or 2.
I did get the sediment bowl to stop leaking, but now the nipple that's in the bottom of the fuel tank is leaking where it goes into the tank. I haven't looked at it too much (other things I had to do). But, so far, without much investigation, I don't know if it's threaded into the tank, or if it's pressed in. Hopefully, it's threaded in. If so, I can fix it.

I believe they're soldered into the tank, but I can't say for sure. The one's I've worked on were soldered at the point I got them.

Yes it's soldered. I had to repair mine it had a small crack in the old solder.

Looks like I'll be doing some soldering then. The question is:
Silver solder or 60/40?

Here's something I've been thinking about:
After I get done with the O, I might sell it. I like it, but I have another project I need to tackle right now. If anyone is interested in it, let me know.
I will of course finish what I'm currently doing with it as well as new exhaust and will be including a new steering column grommet.
I'll still be updating this thread with what I'm currently doing with the O.
I'll be officially be posting it for sale on here as well as St. Louis Craigslist within the next 3-4 weeks.