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-   -   Pic of back of dash on a '96 1810 or equiv PLZZ! (https://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/showthread.php?t=34762)

Herrbooten 09-20-2014 09:20 PM

Pic of back of dash on a '96 1810 or equiv PLZZ!
 
Ive got some wiring confusion issues behind my dash. Anybody have some pics as schematics make my ears bleed. I typed a long explanation and it went away. Basically the tractor wont start with keyswitch but will start when i jump the solenoid. Once started it wont shut off with the key, the pto wont engage and I am lost. Key switch bad maybe. I still think some wiring is not right. Thanks from NC! Jeremy

J-Mech 09-20-2014 09:24 PM

If you can't read a schematic, I don't see how pics are going to help. All as you are going to see is how the wires look before going into the loom. Knowing where they go and how it works is what you need...... which would be a wiring diagram. Do you need a copy of that?

Herrbooten 09-20-2014 09:31 PM

Yeah...I can read them just having a weird, difficult time finding one with my exact colors. The loom is original or so I have been told. If you have one I would be love it. Thanks for the response.

J-Mech 09-20-2014 09:45 PM

It's in the chassis service manual.... right here in our tech section.

Here is the manual....... Chassis Manual

Depending on serial number of the machine:

Page 2-55, or 2-59.

Herrbooten 09-20-2014 09:52 PM

Serial# is 786707. Thanks again for the help. I hope its just my key switch. Thats if I can find one on a Sunday!

J-Mech 09-20-2014 09:54 PM

Most all parts stores carry that switch. Pretty standard for all lawn equipment.

Pretty interesting that it won't start OR shut off with the key. Could be the switch..... maybe.

Herrbooten 09-20-2014 10:01 PM

Just a quick ? The 2 wires coming off the fuse...One to the solenoid and one to the voltage meter, correct?

J-Mech 09-20-2014 10:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Herrbooten (Post 287577)
Just a quick ? The 2 wires coming off the fuse...One to the solenoid and one to the voltage meter, correct?


No.....
Out of the fuse to the ammeter. That's it.

Herrbooten 09-20-2014 11:57 PM

Yep that works. Are there better connectors than the original round slide on ones that youve used? Originals dont hold well.

J-Mech 09-21-2014 12:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Herrbooten (Post 287606)
Yep that works. Are there better connectors than the original round slide on ones that youve used? Originals dont hold well.

What? :bigthink:

Oak 09-21-2014 06:42 AM

2 Attachment(s)
Probably not much help but here are 2 pics for ya. If you need a schematic I can email you one, just pm me your email. 1810's, 11's & 12's were only built from 1986 to 1989.

Herrbooten 09-21-2014 08:44 AM

Sorry for the confusion, its an 86. As far as the connectors I am referring to. They attach to the two threaded stems that come off the back of the ammeter. Not a big deal. Now on to the oil leak!

Oak 09-21-2014 09:55 AM

The + side goes to the fuse that has a red wire on one side and the other should be black and it goes to the B terminal on the switch. Where is your oil leak at?

Herrbooten 09-21-2014 10:06 AM

How does one determine neg and pos on the ammeter? No markings I can see. The leak is coming from under the PTO clutch at the very front of the motor. Seems to be running right along the black wire with the connector that runs to the clutch. That where the fresh/wet oil seems to be coming from. Not knowing much about that apparatus(PTO), diving right in seems foolish.

Oak 09-21-2014 10:12 AM

It looks like the red(orange looking on mine) goes on the terminal near the brake pedal and the black wire near the terminal near the steering column. Sounds like the front crank seal is leaking(which is actually the rear seal). Pretty easy repair to do.

Herrbooten 09-21-2014 10:30 AM

Gotcha on the wiring. I m gonna do some research on the leaky seal. Might as well do it now while I have it quite a ways broken down. Hope the parts prices dont scare the roommate!


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