PTO removal
 

So my 71 y/o buddy warns me about the cub cadet PTO clutch, 'I've been into a few, you won't like it'. So far he's right. This one's front fell off once hood/pto lever was removed, now the tough part-removing whats left. I got an inside race and locking collar, stuck good. No more vibration/noise with it off now, though.' Ideas?, except smoke wrench? I'm thinking cutoff wheel till almost thru, then chisel.
I think I've located a deck.

Are you asking how to remove the bearing? Or the whole assembly?

Front part came right off once the pto lever linkage was disconnectedf, balls have all fell apparently out, i'm left with only the inner race and collar

Everything else seems in pretty good shape, but the bad bearing must have been why the previous owner parked it.

That's a locking collar. You have to turn it to unlock from the race, then it should pull off.

Correct :ThumbsUp:

I've got the Allen set screw completely out and can't get either collar not race to budge, I've used a punch to try to rotate the collar using the Allen screw hole yet no luck. I soaked it all in penetrating oil beforehand, of course.

Did you try turning it both directions? If it was locked properly you should have to rotate it clockwise (you facing the motor/front of tractor). If it doesn't move, try the other way. If still nothing, get a bigger hammer. It will move. :biggrin2:

This set screw was really too long and actually had a jam nut on it which is not shown in the manual nor included with the new bearing.
I hope it hasn't been "field engineered".

Yeah,I tried both directions even held crank from turning with Visegrips on the old race , I thought something would turn loose but not yet. I've given up for the night maybe a longer soak with the penetrant will help.

Nah... Doesn't sound like it. People do stuff like that when they don't know how to properly lock a bearing lock collar. They probably just used the set screw without turning the collar and it kept falling out. I've seen stuff like that before.

When you reinstall, notice there is a second hole in the lock collar. That is where you hit it with a punch. You lock it in the direction of shaft rotation. Or in this case, counter-clockwise (when standing in front of the machine looking at it).

That sounds interesting......

Just out of curiosity, how did you hold the vice grips, the punch and swing the hammer? :bigthink:

:bigeyes::bigeyes:

Had my 14 y/o hold the grips, yeah he trusts me!

I used a spanner wrench and gave it a good hard wrap with a hammer, Works better than a punch.

That's a good way to break a spanner wrench.

Good idea, I've got some of those for setting the shocks on wheelers. I'll give it another shot tomorrow after'work. I had the bearing on the shelf at the part store I run, its used on balers/machinery shafts etc.

Here's what I used.

This is a late 74 model #:529554 it has the brake setup, some of which is kinda chewed, how important is it? The front disc which is held on by an e clip is kinda blue from heat.

Something in there had a longer set screw and jam nut, was it the bearing collar or the basket and pulley?

The bearing collar had a set screw about twice as long as the new hearing collar, and had a jam nut.

That is the factory set up. Notice the nut on the top of the collar.
At least it was on my 1971 127
Some cheap after market replacement bearings do not come that way.
http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/a...1&d=1397926351

This is a National bearing NPC100-RPC, it's made in the USA. I've got chinese bearings on the shelf but I don't use them personally, but I do sell a ton of them. Should I re-use the longer set screw & jam nut? It would seem to keep things together better.

No. The bearing set up you have is fine.

thanks, guys-I smacked it around some before work today, still nothing will budge, so I hosed it with penetrating oil and will attack it again after work.

I use a pitman arm puller to get those bearings off, you can usually pick one up at a parts store fairly cheap.

I've got one, it's leftover from the wrenchbending days. It may be a tight fit in there, but should work-mine is the style that has two bolts to keep the levers tight onto the pitman arm.

I assume you doing it in the tractor? I've never tried to puller with the engine still in the frame but if there's enough room it should work just fine.

I'll be honest, I don't mess with stuff like this too long. I can cut a nut off a bolt with a torch and not ever touch the threads on the bolt. If something like that doesn't cooperate, I just cut it off. Only time I let stuff soak like this is if it's a part that isn't available anymore. A bearing....... well, you already have the new one.

My old PTO bearing I cut off with a cut off wheel......had a new one that went back on.

Sliced it with a cutoff wheel, still had to use puller, dang thing finally busted in half and came off. I guess I should kit this clutch while its off....book shows anti rattle clips,none are present. I got new spherical tie rod ends but the box binds on a full left turn. Found a how to on here, will pull it tomorrow.

I do the same. Had to modify it by grinding the edges down a little and it slips right behind them now, works great

I had to grind mine also.