1450 driveshaft and seal
 

While showing off my rebuilt 1450 and 50" deck on buddy's new yard/house he just bought, I somehow sucked a piece of bubble wrap into my hydro cooling fan. This wrapped around busted a couple fan blades off, snagged a wire that came from the neutral safety/brake engaged switch and wound tightly around the seal heading into the hydro. That started to squirt fluid real bad forcing me to stop mowing and get to the trailer asap. I pulled the tangled wire and plastic from the seal and she is not looking good. drip drip drip drip 1 per second

What seal do I need and what am I looking at for repair? The driveshaft always had a vibration to it so I want to replace that as well.

Any insight would be appreciated.

You need to pull the Drive Shaft out. Replace any worn drive line parts (couplers, adapters, flec discs, bushings, etc) plus the fan.

Once the drive shaft is out, remove the Hydro Unit input shaft Adapters (pound out the spirol pin). Once removed, pull out the defective input shaft seal. Take that seal to your local Auto Parts store for cross reference, and obtain same. Install new seal.

Once you have all the drive line parts as needed, re-assemble the drive and install back into tractor.

Check you Hydraulic Fluid level and add if necessary.

Wha-La.......you are good to go.

SKF seal part# 6904 at Napa.

How brutal will that spiral pin be?

Sometimes the spirol pins come out kinda easy , sometimes not !! But they will come out . Spray some PB Blaster on it first , a punch and a BFH. Once you get it to move , they come out kinda easy , most of the time.

You may want to have a spare spirol pin handy just in case you need it.

This is the kind of instructional help that most of us can follow...:ROTF1:
The BFH just hit me funny. Just picturing the swinging, hitting and cussing that goes with such a job... It's only funny after it's finished.

I know we've said it before, but you will find a spiral pin punch set VERY handy to have.

http://www.amazon.com/Craftsman-9-43...+pin+punch+set

Thanks-- I have the punch set. What are the specs on that pin? I have a set of pins at the shop I could grab one as I am guessing I will trash the current one. Just don't want to grab the whole set as my luck would have it, someone will need it after it sat for the last 5 yearson the shelf.

Per the Parts Manual...........1/4" x 1-3/8"

Please keep in mind that this is a spiral pin, not a regular old split pin.

I almost always grind the end of the pin flush with whatever it is going through before I beat on it, grinding it off helps to keep it from mushrooming out preventing it from going through the hole.

You guys are great! Once I get out of this office I will tear into it. Looks like mcmaster has something that should work. Anyone know the trunion spring part numbers. I suppose I should order those while I am paying for shipping. I should start a new thread to ask about those?

No, just keep on this thread.

I'd just get the pin from CCC. No reason to order parts from two different places. Do you not have a cub dealer within reasonable distance?

Part number(s) can be had here....... Cub Cadet Parts Lookup

I was going to suggest supporting the coupler if possible. Beating a coil pin out can often place unneeded stress on the hydro shaft. Removal of the hydro filter might help to access the coupler with one of those neat little skinny bottle jacks. If the pin is mangled, it is usually harder to drive out. I would not use anything bigger than a 3 pound drilling hammer. Don't get carried away with a "bfh" .

:American Flag 1:

Well, the pin came out easy but the seal, that required a little more surgery. New seal went right on and in. Just going to make a new driveshaft, get a new fan and new rubber connecting disc?? Where do I get a new one of those. I didn't see one on patton acres. Also, should I turn a little concave radius on the end of the driveshaft that meets the coupler for the ball bearing to ride on? There is a wear mark on the current one. Last questions, what diameter is that ball supposed to be? It can almost slide right through the coupler. My guess is the coupler has wore not the bearing. I attached two pics

Well, here is what I ended up with. Lovejoy and a $3 alum fan. See how long it lasts but sure moves the air and gets rid of that worn out rag joint. Shaft wasn't bent just bad rag joint. Modified fan from stock.. added a couple bushings and welded them together.

Thanks for the help on this one guys! (it was a lot prettier in there before the oil bath from shot seal)

Was there a particular reason that you didn't replace the worn/bad parts with factory style parts?

Ummmm.... Yeah. What YSam said. ALL of the parts you needed are still available.

You, uh..... apparently don't know that you can't use a love-joy coupler when the shaft isn't supported. :bash2: If you want to ride stradle of that particular bomb waiting to go off, then I guess it's your leg and not mine.

WOW.....

I like the ingenuity you've displayed--got to give you props for that. But I agree with Jonathan, the original equipment was proven through years of use, and probably more rugged than that coupler. What happens when your deck hits a root and stops your tractor . Will that coupler handle the shock load?

As for straddling that driveshaft, I guess the tunnel cover would protect your essential parts...

shrapnel is not a cool thing especially in that close proximity

The tractor was repowered with a 16bs and I have been making a lot of decisions for new parts as lots I have come across is not stock. Johnny cash would be proud as this thing has come one piece at a time! Lots from the shop after hours. Didn't think I could one up the time tested engineering(learned that while rebuilding an old 8x8argo) , just got caught making a potential mistake. I will get a mounted bearing in there to support the shaft. Coupler specs out to be able to take quite a pounding so I am comfortable there as far as wood chipping.

Thanks for the input! my twins appreciate it

941-3004 Self aligning ball bushing....... $23.75
722-3000 Flex disk coupling..................$13.22
IH-547749-R2 Hydro cooling fan...........$10.73
Shipping.......................................... ...$13.00

Total............................................. .....$60.70

Knowing that the driveshaft isn't going to explode and hurt you........... priceless.


By the time you buy a pillow block bearing and install it you could have fixed it right, for less money and half the time. :Huh: I strongly suggest, for your safety, that you take off your "repair" and shelf the parts. Buy the correct ones, and start over.

Sounds good. Thanks for the part numerbs. Get those parts from the cub dealer?

Tractor is coming apart this winter for blast and paint, repair some worn linkage, etc. I have one more mowing to do and a couple gardens to till. I think my repair will hold up. I am putting the keeper in there for the little work I have left just in case.

It is getting cold out and new garage needs insulation and heat. I will post pics this winter of the resto work AND the OE drive line parts.

You can get those parts from the dealer yes. I look up part numbers here: partstree.com. I got the prices by plugging the part numbers into this site: cubcadetpartsandmore. It seems to be the place with the best price.

Now, I see a U-joint at the front. If it is rated for 3600 RPM, it will be ok..... but, I thought you said something about a B&S engine in this tractor. I don't know what motor you have, but that is also not factory (motor or u-joint). I suggest talking with JeffinPA and getting a new driveshaft made. Check out his stuff, here, and if you need a custom shaft, Jeff will gladly work with you. (Post #6 is his driveshaft post)