782 Won't Move
 

Dad's in the hospital for a week, mom's got memory needs and can't be alone, so I've been running back/forth trying to get everything done at my house AND theirs. Last night, got home almost dark. Thought I'd jump on the mower and knock the yard out. Wrong.

Mower started up fine and engaged well. Mowed about 75 feet or so and the mower just quit moving forward. Engine and PTO still engaged working fine. Tried reverse, it slooooowly crept backwards. Tried forward again, nothing. Tried reverse, slow again, then no movement at all.

I know I will tear into it to determine the what, when, where, and why, but right now I'm short on time and just need some suggestions of what to look for first.

Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!

When was the last time you changed the fluid and filter on the trans? Drive shaft may have eaten a spirol pin. That's where I'd start. :beerchug:

New HyTran and filter was put in about a year ago.

Thanks.

Does the lift still work ??? If not , sounds like you may have sheared a spirol pin in the driveshaft.

Take the tunnel cover off and check it out. It may look like the driveshaft and couplers are turning , but a spirol pin may still be broke.

Easy fix if you have a spirol pin.

As long as you have enough fluid and it's only 1 year old, my guess is drive shaft issue.

Sorry for the delay.

No, the hydraulic lift doesn't work. I'll focus on the spirol pin. What is the part number for this pin? Does it show up on the parts diagram located here: http://www.partstree.com/parts/?lc=c...&dn=0028600010

It's just a spiral pin, nothing Cub Cadet specific about it. I'd go to your local Ace Hardware, Farm & Fleet, Menards, whatever, and get one the same size. It'll be quicker and cheaper :beerchug:

I've never found them at those places. Spring pin yes, spirol no. Don't use a spring pin. They just break in short order. You want a spirol.

Can I just line up the holes and drive the old one out? Or will I have to disassemble the drive shaft?

That's how I do it. If your lucky...use the new spirol pin to drive the old one out then the new one is already installed. Done this a few times with good success. Tractors are still moving so I don't see anything wrong with that way of doing it

As long as the shaft spins straight, that's what I would do. If it wobbles or the rag joints don't look so good. It would be a good time to fix it.

Dad's in hospital. Mom has memory issues and cannot stay by herself. So, last week and a half have been unable to do much of anything, but finally got home with some daylight left and took the tunnel cover off. Started the engine and sure enough, the hydro shaft was sitting still.

With engine off and turning the engine shaft trying to line up the hole of the pin, everything appeared to be too far back against the hydro unit. I pushed the engine rod forward and the whole engine moved. Ugh. Motor must have come unmounted or loose at some point and pushed back against the pin shearing it off.

With the folks health issues, I have absolutely NO time to fix this, even though I believe it to be fixable.

Also noticed that a year+ ago when the local engine shop replaced the rear seal, they used regular rolled pins, not spirol pins both ahead and behind the coupler.

Does all this sound right to you all--loose engine = sheared pin?

I bought an 1811 that had one bolt left holding the engine down to the motor mount , and it wasn't very tight. You could move the engine quite alot just by hand. It had a broken rear spirol pin.

It is very fixable. There is small spacers between the engine and motor mount , i hope they are still in there. And the bolts that hold the engine down are a pain to get to without pulling the engine and mount.

Where are you located in Mo. ?? I live near Boonville/Columbia , i could come help if the distance isn't to far.

Thanks for the offer. I'm in Lone Jack, MO. That's about a 2 hour drive. Wouldn't expect you to do that, but appreciate the offer. My time schedule is up in the air right now as long as the folks health issues are on the front burner.

If I get a moment to schedule any time for this and you're still interested in the trip, I'll let you know. Again, thanks.

First time in 2 weeks I was able to get home with enough daylight to work.

Used Sea Foam Creep lube on the old pin (it was a simple roll pin, not a spirol) and got it removed w/o issue. The front two engine mounting bolts were loosely in place while I saw no evidence of any rear bolts having been there for a while. Last year, I had a local mower repair shop put in a rear seal and they had the engine completely out. I cannot verify whether all 4 engine mounting bolts were in there or not when they were done.

Anyway, the right rear bolt was easier to get to, so added that one. Tightened all 3 down and lined up the holes for the spirol pin and drove it in.

Fired it up and ran like a top. While the deck was off, I changed the oil. Previously, I had thought my engine flooding issue was due to a faulty replacement fuel pump, but now I think it was from not turning the gas shutoff valve off after use. So, reconnected the fuel pump and ran it for a few minutes. Ran fine.

Went and ate dinner then returned home and mowed the yard. Ran 1-1/2 hours w/o a hitch. Could tell the fuel pump was doing good versus the gravity setup (I can tell with sudden stops/starts and inclines that the gas doesn't evenly flow into the carb with gravity setup).

So, thanks for advice and encouragement to get this fixed.

One remaining question: Is the air flow supposes to go toward the engine from the fan? Mine is set up to blow air toward the rear.

YES.....How is it that you know that the air is being discharged out the rear...??

While the tunnel cover was off and engine running, I put my hand (carefully!) in front of the fan, then in back of the fan. Air was blowing across my hand when it was behind the fan.

Air from the Hydro Cooling Fan is suppose to blow towards to rear of the tractor.

Air from the KT-17 Flywheel Fan is suppose to blow towards the front of the tractor.

Are you say, that the air from the engine is blowing towards the rear of the tractor...??? :Huh:

Fan on the drive shaft should blow air towards the rear of the tractor to cool the hydro pump.

If your running the tractor with only 3 of the 4 engine mount bolts I strongly recommend that you get the 4th one in soon. You don't want to stress the engine mounts and crack one. Easiest way to get at them is to remove the motor mounting plate with the engine. It's only held in the frame by 6 bolts that you get at from under the frame.

Thanks. Getting that 4th bolt in doesn't sound that difficult.

I only asked about the air flow from the shaft fan 'cause I wasn't sure if the shop had got it turned around when they removed/reinstalled the engine.

Much appreciated!

Guys, you can't change the direction of a fan by turning it around. Not matter which way a fan blade is installed it will move air the same direction. Now, it does matter which way it is installed, because one way the curve of the blades makes more air flow, while the other way it doesn't move as much air.

Yes, put all the engine mounting bolts in.

If you were ever getting fuel in the motor, it wasn't a result of not shutting the fuel off. No matter how you look at it, either the float valve in the carb is faulty, or the fuel pump is bad. Either way, you should fix it. If it is indeed a leaking fuel pump, and you shut the gas off when it's sitting, the fuel pump still leaks when the engine is running. It's very important that no gas gets in your oil. Make sure whatever the issue is, that it gets resolved.