Lift lever hole?
 

So I'm starting to put the OEM 3 point on my 108. The rock shaft has a hole for the lift pin, and parallel to it [crossways to the pivot shaft] a hole about 1/2" ID that intersects the pivot shaft bore, as if for a grease fitting...but I never seen a grease fitting with that big a thread, so what am I dealing with? Thanks, Lurch

:confused2.gif":confused2.gif"

What? LOL.

How about a pic. I have no idea what you are talking about. There is a hole in the lever, it's for a machine with hydraulic lift..... But it's on the arm, not the shaft. :Huh:

See the extra hole? It's located perfectly for a zerk, but it's too big for anything less than 3/8 pipe thread...

I think you confused J-Mech by saying rock shaft. That is not the rock shaft. Just the top cast piece for the rear lift. The rock shaft is in the center of the tractor and controls the lift of the deck and the rear lift. As J-Mech said, there is a lever on the outside of the frame by the right foot rest that is on the end of the rock shaft. Anyway, check this out.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Grease-Zerk-...item19bed41a4b

http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t...ps95d799ae.jpg

So it IS for a zerk? The install instructions for the OEM lift show nothing...but why that big of one, puzzles me slightly...a 1/4 pipe tap drops right in the hole, but I can get 3/8NPT 90 degree zerks from McMaster for about 4 bucks an each in packs of 3...personally I think a 1/4" machine thread zerk would be plenty...if it's not for a zerk I can't fathom what it would be fore, facing the backside like that...

Some PO drilled it. For what reason, I have no clue, but couldn't hurt to put a zerk right? Maybe he lost his 1/4 drill bit.:Huh: I will say that I just took a rear lift off a tractor that had been sitting outside for a LONG time, and the rod came right out of the rear casting. Easily I might add. Might as well put a zerk there just to fill the hole.

My bad--how do I go about renaming the thread "lift lever hole"?

Thank you so much! I have a 3-pk of 3/8 NPT zerks on order...

Edit you first post and change the title. I did this the other day because I misspelled something. :Forgot:

You're going to tap it for a thread in zerk? Like those better than press in, or was the hole too big? Just wondering.

Ok. Yeah. Not the rockshaft I was thinking of. I don't know what you would call it, but in true 3point hitches it would be a rockshaft.

No one drilled it. It's just part of the cast. Poor mold, or defect, whatever... don't fret over it. Just assemble as normal. Wouldn't do any good to put a grease zerk there anyway, it's on the back side.

I wouldn't use a press in zerk if I had to. JUNK.

You don't need a zerk on the cast piece. The shaft will just rotate in the frame. Area of least resistance guys.

You ever seen another that looks like this?

I've seen a lot of bad casts on all sorts of things. There is something familiar about the hole though. Not so sure I don't have one that looks just like it. :bigthink:

I agree, but I've read on here where some people had them fall out. Why do you think cub would use press in? I want to say it was in a wheel...

Maybe they all have that..... I never paid any attention.

I thought it looked familiar.
Attachment 56228

I haven't...all things considered, that bar stock is probably softer than either the casting or the frame weldments LOL

Cub used them on all sorts of locations. They break, then you can't get them out, because when you try to drill them, they just spin. Tap and thread.

Why did they use them? Cheap. Easy.

It's just a piece of cold rolled. The holes in the frame will wear. I've seen it. The shaft wears too. Haven't seen any cast pieces that were wore out that I can recall..... :bigthink:

J-Mech, are you at your shop at 1 AM, or is it 2 where you are? Like your profile says.....work....work.....work.....work....lol

The shaft it's on in the pic, is some cheapo stuff from the farm supply store...probably 1018 or similar...I couldn't see going to all the trouble to source an OEM shaft when it's so insultingly easy to make one...

It's 1AM here. And yes, I'm at the shop. Obviously, I'm in the office on the PC, and not turning wrenches, LOL! I'm usually here till between 1 and 3 am. On rare occasion, all night. I've spent days on end here in years past when we were bigger and had demands. Getting too old for that crap anymore. Most I've ever worked straight is around 36 hours (more than once). I used to work 24 straight all the time. I don't need much sleep. :biggrin2:

Agreed. I'd use cold rolled though. :ThumbsUp: Probably NBD to just use what's there. Easy for me to say, I probably have a piece laying around! :BlahBlah:

I COULD counterbore the casting for needle bearings...that's a 5/8 shaft; I *think* some Harley cam journals are nominal 5/8...

Nothing to gain.

Even the big tractors usually just use a brass sleeve/bushing on the 3pt rockshaft. :bigeyes:

Are you saying Harley uses needle bearings on the cam? (That doesn't sound right) That's one motor I've never worked on. Lots of Honda's. No Harleys.

You do know you can buy caged needle bearings by size anyway right? You'd just bore the casting and drive them in.

OT: Yep, they do. Needle bearings on the inboard end almost always, and depending on model year, either a bronze bushing, or a ball bearing on the outboard end. Until '09 anyway. There's been a lot of controversy over the years about whether the 'new' INA cam bearings with half as many rollers are better or worse than the old Torrington ones. The cranks are all roller bearing after about 1955; ball before that.

I actually likely will do nothing but grease it and assemble it...the chatter about roller bearings is just my PTSD-driven-insomnia and boredom having a teleconference.

Sorry, didn't mean to de-rail the thread. We kinda bounced around tonight......

Why bother with a grease fitting. It's just a 1/2" rod that holds the upper lift arm in place. The hole in the lift arm is bigger than that by at least 3/16". Too much off a gap to justify greasing. It'll never seize up. When I installed my 3 point lift, I put a light coat of oil on the 1/2" rod and slid it in. My lift arm also has the hole. If it needed a zerk, IH would have put one there. I think by greasing it, with amount of gap that is inside the lift arm hole for the 1/2" pin, you'll just be attracting dirt. Lightly coat the pin with oil or leave it dry. I oiled mine just to ease my mind, but it doesn't even need that.

As far as the hole in the lift arm, it could have been from casting and holding the piece while the other holes got drilled? I'm not sure, but either way, it doesn't need grease.....or a coat of oil like I did.
Just put it together and use it.

HoundDog, buddy you did it wrong. The steel rod should be a 5/8" rod and fit the cast piece tightly. You used the wrong size.

Well darn! I guess if it was 1/2", what I said would make sense.....
Looks like I have to find a 5/8" rod. Man, that sucks. Feel like a doh doh bird now!
When I bought my hitch, it came with a 1/2", so I thought that's what it used. With that said, I'm glad I opened my mouth about it here.

:IH Trusted Hand:

Where did you find these instructions? I would like a set myself.

You need instructions on how to install a sleeve hitch? :bigeyes:

Here: http://www.ccmanuals.info/pdf/WF%203PT%20Install.pdf

http://ihccw.com/images/0901/IMG_2932_6.JPG

http://ihccw.com/images/0801/IMG_8452_3.JPG

http://ihccw.com/images/0901/IMG_2931_5.JPG

The first two pictures include a bracket for the top link that the last picture does not include. According to the site that I got the pictures from (a sales site) the top picture is for models 106 107 126 127 147. The middle picture is for models 70 71 72 73 100 102 104 105 122 123 124 125 106 107 126 127 147. And the last picture is for models 70 71 72 73 100 102 104 105 122 123 124 125.

All of the above tractors are narrow frame models. According to the site, I can use either the middle or bottom pictures for my 104. But one of them has the extra bracket and one doesn't. So do I need the bracket or not? I figured that if I had the manual that showed how to install it then I would know. The pictures in the manual that you linked does not include the extra bracket, but it is for wide frames. Of course you didn't know that I am dealing with a nf and the OP is discussing a wf. With multiple options according to the pictures, I would just like to know that I am installing it properly the first time.

Some of you have been working with and on these tractors for a long time. What seems extremely obvious or easy to you because of your years of experience or mechanical aptitude may not be so obvious to those of us that are new to this. Even if we ask what seems to be a dumb question, it doesn't always mean that we are not capable of understanding how to do something. It just means that if we have never seen it before, and we would like a little bit of clarification before we turn something easy into something hard by screwing up something. So yes, I asked for a manual to install a hitch. Then again, if it was that self explanatory they probably would not have created the manual in the first place.

Here's the one for a NF:

http://ccmanuals.info/pdf/NF%203%20PT.pdf

The later NF's use the extra bracket (1X6/7). Prior to that they do not use it. The "O" is different entirely.

Thanks Jonathan!!!