Are hydro's normally faster then gear drive?
 

I was driving around my 108 and 127 a few days ago. The 108 has a 12hp in it now. That 127 was hauling pretty fast. I realize the engine in my 108 needs some love but even if it was running well I dont think it would make up the difference. Are the trans geared different? Does the pump step up the rpms?

Pretty sure the answer to your question is yes. Hydros are slightly faster.

gear drives in 3rd 6.9 mph
hydro's 8 mph

Yes, the hydro's are a little faster. No, it doesn't "step up the RPM's". They are just geared a little different. It's actually pretty interesting to look at all the different models and the speeds. They aren't as similar as you may think. They don't vary much, but they do list differently.

Yeah I was wondering about gear options. There is a thread on hear about a 106 I think that was rebuilt. I think he called it his own version of a super. Insane build, very slick. Well where im going with this is he said he had a low 2nd gear in his trans. That lead me to believe that there must have been some options when you bought these correct?

No, but over the years some gearing changes were made. Mostly because of engines and tires. There are 2 or 3 second gear ratios. I don't remember there being any others for 1 and 3. Also, MWSC makes all kind of gears for pulling. There are options. But there weren't "choices" when you bought new.

Huh pretty interesting. Thanks :-)

Yep they are normaly faster. Unless of course you have a machine like my old 100 that decided to grenade its governor right as we were gettin ready to race em...that was interesting

Did you win? :biggrin2:

There were 3 different second gear ratios that IH Cub Cadets used. Early Cub Cadet 70 and 100's with serial number range of 65458 to 96765 had a 16 tooth 2nd gear. The gear would fail sometimes. It was a little on the slow side when you mow the grass. The later 70/100's serial number 96766 and above had a 19 tooth gear. The 19 tooth gear was used until the wide frame series came to the market. Cub Cadet went to a 17 tooth 2nd gear.

Speeds for the
16 tooth-3.0 mph
17 tooth-3.5 mph
19 tooth-3.9 mph

Oh yes I did. Youd be amazed at how fast they are un governed...little tipsy tho

Hahahaha :biggrin2:

I know for a fact, my model 100 was faster than my model 71 and 72, respectably. My 72 is about a tad faster than a brisk walk, however. Though, my 72 is too fast to push snow in third gear, IMO . I'm pretty sure my 1450 has a faster ground speed.

garnold,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,That may be my 106 build that you are referring to. What I have is a transaxle out of an early 100 which has the lower second gear, just like what Merk said. It seems this lower second gear is only slightly faster than first gear. Merk explained it well. There were no "options" on gear ratios ,but they used different second gear ratios on different models through the years. I think first and third gear is the same on all gear drive models. By the way, hydros are definitely faster (top speed) than gear drives in third gear.

Yep Tim I was referencing your build. A real beauty :biggrin2: So the gearing in a hydro is different then a gear drive from what I'm reading. Just for the sake of asking, can the gear ratio in a gear drive be stepped up to match a hydro? Also, again for the sake of learning, would the gearing in a gear drive then make it a more powerful tractor in regards to towing? This is not going to become a what tractor is better then the other thread, just looking to learn some stuff here. I'm very aware of how gearing works so this is kind of interesting.

My 106 build/mod and my "100 Super" build both have the slower second gear, which is good since I am running 27" tall rear tires. The slow second gear seems barely faster than first gear.

So, how do you identify a 19 tooth second gear? Here, you see what is labeled "second gear".

http://i61.tinypic.com/16bncc5.jpg[/I

Here is a picture of mine. I counted a lot more than 19 teeth here:

http://i59.tinypic.com/2iik20m.jpg[/I

On this part, marked with yellow, I counted 19 teeth:

http://i60.tinypic.com/24ms2sh.jpg[/

Now, if I wanted to be smart, could I use those parts and make the gear drive faster than a hydro? Just kidding, I have no plans for that, lol!

garnold,,,,,,,You can get an overdrive gear set ( used inside the gear reduction housing on the front of the transaxle) or you can run taller tires to gain an increase in speed. But, as it has been discussed before,,,Why would you want to go faster on a garden tractor ?:bigthink:

These are great builds. Still want to see some pics on how you lengthen the tractor. I think you said you moved the trans back and front axle forward :biggrin2: I'll check out your thread again for more info.

I actually use mine to scoot around the block hahaha. Also, being an old down hill mountain biker a little bit of speed is fun :biggrin2: Not looking for seatbelt or helmet kind of speed, just a little fun hahahaha. I'd look into the taller tires but you did a lot to mod your frame, more then I could pull off right now.

johncub7172,,,,I think that first picture is the countershaft that the 1st,2nd and 3rd gears mesh into. The bottom picture, the one marked in yellow, I believe is your actual 1st,2nd and 3rd gears. But,hey I am no expert.

TIM E- Thank you. I was wondering, because I think its neat to have a 19 tooth second gear. Just wanted a little conformation.

Main shaft is the top shaft in the drawing. Counter shaft is the lower shaft.

http://i60.tinypic.com/f2b28.jpg[/IMG

Just last Saturday, I found these two items in a plastic bag, laying next to a huge track hoe with a big magnet. Thought they looked cool. I got a whole 5 gallon bucket load of stuff for 10 bucks.

Ok, so the hydros are faster. But I like the authority my 72 gives when moving up hills and grades with that continual constant speed. Down hill not so much.

:American Flag 1:

garnold, on stretching the wheelbase,,,I did not add any length to the frame in the front, I just moved the front axle forward 5 inches from the stock position. On the 106 build I added 3-7/16" to the rear of the frame using a piece cut off of an old frame. Then I moved the transaxle back 3-7/16". The reason I chose 3-7/16" is because I just bolted the front mount in the rear hole,which moved it back 3-7/16". Then of course, the drive shaft and brake linkage had to be 3-7/16" longer. On the 100 build, I moved the rear axle back 2" and made a new driveshaft and brake linkage 2" longer. All this to use 27" tall tires and to get a "cool looking stance" and to get more leg/arm room (I have long legs and arms) (not to make it go faster):biggrin2:

johncub7172,,,you are right on the mainshaft/countershaft issue. So,to clarify,,I believe the three gears on the MAINSHAFT are your actual 1st,2nd and 3rd gears. I am continually learning (an making mistakes):biggrin2:

Nice and thank you! I just got lucky and found out my neighbor is a welder by trade and likes beer. I can buy beer hahahaha. I'll talk more about this in your thread Tim. I have a 73 that wants to grow up to be just like your tractors :biggrin2:

Kinda. The only "gears" in a hydro are in a reduction housing just before the pinion shaft. It gives it a little more torque. Not anything in there that can be changed really. You would have to have a gear made if you wanted to change the ratio. Hydro...... is a little different animal. If you curious about hydro's, read this.


Yes, you can. For the most part guys change the gears in the reduction housing. That way it speeds all the gears up a "stepped" or "calculated" amount. (Based on the new ratio) Or, companies like Midwest Super Cub make different gears. Pullers are way ahead of you. :biggrin2:

Ummm.... yes. It's all about torque. That is why no one want's a hydro for 1.) pulling, 2.) plowing. Not that it can't be done.... just not as well. I plow with a hydro, but it's not my first choice.


Then you shouldn't really have many questions.



The shaft in the first pic is the counter shaft. It should have a 33 tooth second gear if it mates with the other shaft you pictured. The gear marked in yellow, is the second gear sliding gear. Yes, it should have 19 teeth.


No..... not really. Not those parts. You'd have to change the reduction gears. Or, buy a different second or third gear from someone like Midwest Super Cub.

Actually, the gears on the topshaft, and the bottom shaft make up a "gear set" (1st, 2nd, 3rd). It takes two gears, and when you change the number of teeth on one, you usually have to change them both. That is why the counter shaft bolts together.

First and third gears were the same on all gear drives.