The 582 restoration has officially began!
 

I finally had enough time and space in my garage to start the tear down. I plan to start ordering parts in the next week or two the plan is to replace all seals, bearings, gaskets and any other wear items. If the engine is in good shape, it will get rebuilt, otherwise look to repower. Jmech, do you do rebuilds on the Briggs? Also any tips or suggestions on things to pay extra attention to would be greatly appreciated.

Attachment 56098

Looks like a good start!

And btw, I'll bet :TwoCents: that J-mech will do it, but that he will also advocate swapping out the Brigg's-a-crappin for Kohler :biggrin2:

Looks like a good start!
I have one tore down too. No, I won't rebuild a B&S. Like we talked the other day, if the motor is bad, your better off with an M or a CH. The motor I pulled out of mine is bad. I have no intentions of fixing it..... even for myself (no labor, LOL).

Fixed your pic too. It was hurting my neck. :biggrin2:

Thanks for fixing the pic. Silly iphone. If I have to repower I will probably go with the ch. Thanks for the input gentlemen. I'll keep updating as she progresses.

It will look dramatically different when you are done!

When you say replace all seals, gaskets, bearings - do you have a list? Im curious as I am contemplating similar decisions. In particular, do you include:

front wheel bearings?
hydro to rear end gasket?
trunion gasket?
rear end bearings? (Im not sure whats in there... more than one I think but I wouldnt think they all need it)
lift cylinder rebuild?
the bushings for the brake lever, etc, where they go through the frame? (maybe put zerk fittings on these?) Most people dont take these apart for painting.
hydro release valves?
adding zerk fittings anywhere else?
rear end cover, back cover gaskets?
rear axle seals/bearings?
rag joints?

what did I miss?

Im just asking because I am doing some, but not all of these on mine and would love to hear others recommendations on which are worth it and which are better left alone until a problem.

(ok, it just hit me that yours is not a hydro, and manual lift so not all these apply. But some do...?)

I wouldn't replace every bearing. No need. If you have it apart, look them over. If the rear end has had water in it, look them over. Otherwise, they don't very seldom fail.

I agree with this. If the bearings roll nice and don't have pits in them then there's no need to replace them unless you have extra money to blow.

Ok, thanks for saving me $. I just thought while I was in there, but if they don't go out very often I'm ok with just inspecting bearings first. Thanks everyone.

So tearing into engine resulted in mice losing a home, and discovering that both cylinder walls have grooves in them tat could be felt through the rag used to wipe them down. Looks like a ch repower is in this cubs future. Thanks again.

It's been awhile since I was able to do much with the 582, but today I was able to pick up a low hour Briggs opposed 18 on the cheap. :beerchug:I'll have to borrow parts from the sixteen to make it right. Mainly being the muffler which is different and the shroud that goes around the muffler. Easy peasy swap,then just bolt everything in. Right now everything is put back together, except engine of course, I plan to run it this spring for tilling, and then get her sanded down and ready for paint.

That's great, but :WWP:, or it didn't happen!! :biggrin2:

Always great to see another one back from the dead! :beerchug:

So I ran into a snag. It seems that now I have put the pto, the engine is very hard to turn over. The starter will not turn it over, and it is hard to turn over with a wrench on the flywheel nut. I pulled the pto off, and I was able to start it up. Any idea on what would cause this? I'm not sure if it is something I did, or a problem with the pto. I bought the tractor non-running, so the the only thing I know about the pto is it clicked when I flipped the switch. Thanks for any help. P.s driveshaft is not on.

Pull the pto and check the bearing.

Ok, I'll check. Thank you

I checked the bearing, and it seemed to be good. I don't know the name of the parts, but part number 2 seems to be binding up on part number one. I had to pull number 2 off before the engine would spin normally. Now the parts are a little rusty, could that be causing my problems?

Did you have a spacer on the end of the crank? #2 should be very close to #1 but not touching it. Most of that style PTO have a spacer on the crank to give you the required clearance.

No, there was not a spacer. I thought maybe there should have been, so I first tried to pull #2 about 1/8" and tried turning the engine over, but it did not free it up any. I had to completely remove it before it made a difference.

I don't know how the Briggs work with the PTO, but with the Kohlers you need to follow the manual and set the centering, and the clearance. Sounds like the centering is off.

I think your right, sounds like #1 is not properly centered. I haven't done that style in a while and if I recall they have 4 little tangs that sit in the seal bore at least on a Kohler to center the field coil AKA #1 maybe he has it off center. :bigthink:

I loosen the bolts on 1. Then put a feeler gauge through 2 and rotate engine. Start with a small gauge and rotate the engine while moving 1 to center. Keep increasing the feeler gauge till you get it centered all the way around. Then tighten bolts on 1.

If it is the proper PTO it should center itself. I have never seen a front PTO that the base (#1) had to be centered. Sam is correct, they all have a lip/tangs that sits in the seal bore to center it. Did you line it up?

I believe that that PTO butts up a lip on the crank. No bushing required. I don't see one listed in the parts book anywhere either. I have a motor sitting here, but I'm not taking it apart just to look..... :biggrin2:

There is actually cut outs on the mounting plate of #1 that go over parts of the block. So I'm not sure what my problem is, but if those are right it should be centered. Right? If you look at the top left hand corner, just above the pto part #1, that is the cut out I'm talking about. The pto was on the opposed 16 Briggs I pulled out of the 582. Thanks again for your guy's help.

What did the new engine come out of? Is the crank the same length?

If your using the PTO off the 16 on the 18, it may not work. May need a spacer or something.

I'm with CubDieselFan, crank looks too long. :bigthink:

When all the pto parts are on the shaft, the shaft sits flush with the outer part of the pulley. The guy I got the engine from ran a log splitter with it. If it was on anything else I'm not aware of it. I guess I'll just try cleaning up all the pto parts and see where that leaves me. Thanks

Why not measure the old engine crank and the newer one, then at least you'll know they are the same, or not.

Hello, you do not want #2 rubbing #1 or off goes the plastic covering the coil. May need a shim on the crank behind #2. I used that briggs pto on a 1"mag18 out of a roper in my 582 a couple years ago. Everything works good, i maybe need to revisit the rubbing part. BECAUSE this year i learned about the rubbing part when i put a ch18 in a 682 and used the pto off the kt motor. I'm afraid to say anything on here anymore for fear of getting flamed when people don't quite understand your way of thinking or expressing. Mike

Both shafts are measuring the same @ 2 13/16".

Mike

Please feel free to post away, if you can help the OP that's what the forum is all about. If something is bothering you send me a PM with your phone # and I'll give you a call.

582 motor
 

I had a 582 a few years back that I redid.I used a 16hp ring gear motor and made a 2 plug head and a coil off a twin,it also had the 18hp cam it was a real beast

Well after some experimenting I was able to determine that, you guys were right. The base of the pto was not centered. While it had cutouts, and the block had the parts to sit in there, they were a little different. I was however, able to use a rotary burr grinder and a drill to make the holes large enough to accommodate the block. Bolted everything up earlier, and it spins like a dream. Now I just have to hook up the rest of the harness and wait for my 5/8 ball to come in the mail(the one for the driveshaft coupler). Then it should be ready for filling season.:beerchug: Thanks again everyone for the help.

Once my belt gets here from ccspecialties, (pto to gearbox), it will be ready for tilling this spring. Then it will be tore down once again for cleaning, sanding, and new paint. Thanks for all those that helped with information to get me this far.