Ignition Question - Just Making Sure
 

New battery fully charged. The starting motor does not crank using the key. However, with key in run position, I can jump the posts on the solenoid and the starting motor will crank and the engine fires up. Am I correct in believing I need to clean all cables and the solenoid ground wire? Is there anything else I need to be prepared for? Thank you for your time and consideration.

Aaron

I would do some testing with a test light to see if the key switch is sending power to the solenoid in the start position and if it is I'd test the solenoid to see if its sending power to the starter when you turn the key to the start position. Sounds like a bad solenoid to me.

Brake/neutral interlock?

interlock, bad wire/terminal from ignition switch to solenoid, bad/worn ignition switch. test light and multimeter are your friend.

It would be most helpful if we knew what model of Cub Cadet you are working. :Huh:

The unit is a '80 782 with series 2 engine update

Sounds weird. But try starting ut sitting on the seat brake pedal pushed down a highly the pto switch... see if it does anything....just about all 82 series I have picked up needed the original pto switch to be juggled

Since there are two different wiring configurations for the 782, how about a Chassis Serial Number...???

Roland, the serial number on the machine is 682435. The original tag on the wiring harness is IH-144659-C2.

Interestingly enough, I bought a pair of rear fender lights along with a flasher as I plan on adding for safety. The left rear light (1st in wiring harness series) is more dim than the right rear light. So, I will replace the bulbs in both and see if they even out. Likewise, when I installed the flasher, it doesn't work, although the fender lights work. So, we will get another and see if that resolves the problem. This has been fun and I have a bald spot on my head that has been scratched a bit...LOL. Thank you all for your help.

The lights are wired in a parallel, not a series. If it is dim, it's the ground. The reason the flasher doesn't work is because the rear fender lights do not have enough amp draw to make it flash.

The starter solenoid grounds through the base, it has no ground wire. Or coarse when you short across it it starts...... you just by-passed it. (Assuming that you are shorting the two big terminals.) Check the safety switches.

Here is a simplified Start Circuit Diagram with the correct colored wires...

http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w...a.png~original


Power leaves the Battery Positive Terminal to the B terminal on Ignition Switch. When engaged, the S Terminal receives the power and goes to the C Terminal on PTO Switch. If in the off position, the PTO Switch will send power on to D terminal. Leaving the PTO, the power goes to the Neutral Safety Switch (Brake pedal) and finally on to the Starter solenoid.

If you have a meter this should be easy to trace down.

Well, I believe we figured it all out. Went though the testing and feel comfortable with the diagnosis. For kicks and giggles, I installed a solenoid from an MTD Yard Machine I junked out with a broken transmission case. Once installed the machine fired right up with no issues at all.

Now, the next question: the MTD unit was mated with a B&S and the 1/2 the cost of a new one listed for the 782 from the dealer. Would I be safe using this MTD Yard Machine solenoid on the 782 or would it be in my best interest to get a original part? The unit is simply gonna be the work horse so to speak.

Thank you all for your feedback and help on this issue.

Aaron

as long as it works you should be fine, a solenoid is a solenoid.

Solenoids are rated by the "Contact Rating" (or load rating) based on amperage they will handle. For example, 40A, 50A, 60A & etc. These ratings are not stamped or lettered on the solenoid it self, so it is hard to know. In your situation, use the solenoid and if it burns up, buy one for a Ford.

Thank you both for your messages.

Roland, Very interesting about the Ford solenoid as I was unaware of that.

It would be interesting/neat/beneficial if the board and it members could create a "cross over" page, so to speak, about any and all parts that have a common auto use or placement compared to a specific use for Cadets. I think we know genuine MTD parts aren't the cheapest but may certainly be found cheaper in the auto application.

Thank you all once again.

I think if you take the time to contact a parts store, your will find that they have books that do just that. I don't know why so many people have trouble cross referencing parts. It's not hard at all. Sometimes it does take knowledge of the parts world to just "know" that one part is similar enough to another for it to work, but most of the time it really is as simple as picking up a book, or making a phone call. It would take hours to put together a "cross reference" and also silly, as for the most part the part manufacturers have already done that. You can go to your local parts store and have them get you a Prime Line, or Stens book. It won't have prices, but it will let you find the part you need. Sometimes you can just visit, NAPA, or O'Reilly's web page, type in a part number and it will cross it and give you the matched part right away. At least for simple things such as solenoids, ign switches, relays, headlights, v-regs and the like. Some things, are only available OEM. :beerchug: