Goodbye 1650, HELLO 582 (with a creeper)
 

so today I traded my very first cub, a 1650, off for a 582 with a creeper. NOT A SPECIAL. Anyway it's in pretty decent shape cosmetically, but needs a little work on the engine. So far it appears that it needs a new Coile and clutch adjusted/replaced, carb rebuild and a few other odds and ends. Hopefully with a little help from my pal, Cubby102, it'll be a winter restoration project. Cubby102 that's your shout out brother. :beerchug: hopefully we can do this before march.

Does it need a coil because it's missing?
Does the carb need rebuilt because it is running rich, and gas "burbs" out of it when you run it with the air filter off?

It needs a coil because a mouse chewed threw the spark plug wire, and needs the carb rebuilt because said mouse built a nest in it using some of the rubber it chewed off the spark plug wire. So I figured instead of tearing it down and reassembling with old gaskets float and needle I'd do it the right way. :bigthink:

When we dug into it a little today all I can say is its definatly a barn find...has the farm fresh smell even plug wires are almost ate all the way through. Theres enough mouse poo just sitting on top of and inside the air breather (both sides of filter) and that poo is also inside the carb itself that im not even going to attempt to fire it until its cleaned (might as well replace the gaskets and seals while im in there) looking down the air channel between the breather and engine shroud I can easily tell its a small mouse apartment building so with all that being said the engine is coming out of the frame and its obviously been sitting quite some time it warwnts at minimum a good scrub down so we are gonna give it giving it the benifit of the doubt the carb is no good in its current state . Judging by the rest of the machine it hasn't seen any care in quite some time.
Sorry bout the book im tired and ready for bed so im start in to ramble on.
If there are spelling mistakes blame it on the auto correct on my phone I have fat fingers lol .

Nice trade.

Congrats on the 582!:beerchug:

Nice find on the 582.

Before you spend a bunch of $$ pull the spark plugs out and look down the hole. Your looking for an open exhaust valve with the seal hanging off of it. I don't know why they parked the machine, but that is a common failure of that engine. If you see the seat, just stop. Look for a different motor. I have one sitting like that now, and I'm not even sure what to do with it. It requires at bare minimum complete tear down to even attempt a fix. I'm not willing to spend that much $$ because there is no guarantee that the seat will stay once installed. Too bad, I think it was a good motor. :angry:

We did a compression test on the cylinders. Dry one side got to around 60psi, the other side was around 48 or so. I'm not sure if that info means anything as far as the valve issue goes. Either way I'm not going to rush into getting it running, with most everything being original on the tractor I am planning on tearing it down for a complete restoration. So I will have a good deal of time before the engine will be needed. If I have to shell out for an overhaul or re power it'll be worth it in the long run. Thanks for the input.

Compression at all means that a seat hasn't dropped...... but those numbers.... they aren't good.

Question: If the carb was full of mouse turds and you didn't want to start it, why did you crank on it to do a compression check? It still sucks air through the carb even when you crank on it......

What do you mean by "dry"? :bigthink:

The compression test was done before I took possession, and before the extent of the mouse damage was known. "Dry" meaning we didn't have any gas in the cylinders that would bump up the compression. While I don't personally know how long it sat, I am pretty sure it was awhile, so the engine will be inspected before I try to run the tractor. I wouldn't have taken the deal of trading a running tractor for a non running tractor, if I had no hope of running the engine. All this is really pretty premature discussion, I was only intending this thread to be a new to me discussion and a thanks to a friend for looking it over a little bit. Now I'm not to proud to ask for and take advice, I'm not really sure at this point what advice to ask for though. We were only able to spend a half hour looking at it so far. I'll post an update when I have more info available.

There is no such thing as a "dry" compression test by your description. You are supposed to do it with no gas in the cylinders. Gas does not "bump up the compression". Gas burns and makes fire and power. The piston traveling down sucks in air, and it going up with the valves shut makes compression. Fuel has nothing to do with it.

As a note, the proper way to test compression is with all spark plugs removed, tester in the cylinder to be tested, choke off, throttle in WOT position. Then crank until the gauge stops building pressure. This gives the true compression reading.