I'm getting a 782D
 

I'm working on a deal on a 782d, it runs with ether but not on its own at this point. It's not in perfect shape by any stretch of the imagination. It will take some work and a bit of red paint. The guy is asking $1000 but not running I'm thinking about half of that. I would suspect that it needs an injector cleaning, possibly an injector pump, the guy said it was running on its own. He drove it off the trailer. I am curious what you guys think price wise? Let's assume that it just needs a good servicing and she'll run fine. Any thoughts? Issues to check?

Injection pumps cost close to $1K to go through, injectors about $60 a piece. So, you decide how much you can afford to buy it for, then spend on it.

When I buy a non-running tractor, I never assume it just needs a "good servicing".......especially a diesel that will not run. Sometimes it's cheap to fix, sometimes it's not. I pay bottom dollar unless it runs, that way I don't get burnt. The difference between running and not on a diesel could easily be more than $1000. Just my :TwoCents:

If you do get it start by cleaning out the tank, replacing the lines, and filter. I got mine for $100 because it wouldn't stay running and it was just gel in the tank. Even as parts it's worth a few hundred but not $1k, to me anyway.

Good luck

Fuel systems on the diesels are a bit more complex than the gassers. Just a few things to check.

1: Fuel could be old and contaminated. Stuff will grow in diesel fuel.
2: Electric transfer pump may not be working.
3: Filters could be plugged.
4: Shut off on the filter could be turned off. Ask me how I know about that one.
5: Glow plugs could be bad or not working.
6: Shut off may be stuck in the off position
7: Injection pump could be bad.
8: Injectors could be bad.

DO NOT RUN IT ON ETHER!

Link to the service manual for the engine. Suggest you take a look at it.

Earl, if you can get it for $500 you should be okay if it is not trashed. Don't ever,ever,ever use any type of starting fluid in a diesel or any other engine either. Here is why. http://www.orangetractortalks.com/20...tarting-fluid/
If you get it running it will take another $500 to get it where it needs to be. You can bet the complete driveline will need replaced, replace all the fuel lines, filters and tank bushings, all the fluids and coolant. If you get it, do the starter and GP upgrade. Once you get'em up to par thay are an awsome machine. Good luck, lets see some pics!:beerchug:

Yes, ether=:Explode:

All the guys have you pointed in the right direction. If if ran onto the trailer and now won't, could be as simple as a fuel delivery issue, dirty tank, clogged filters, plugged lines. First thing I do with a new diesel is pull and clean the tank and little screen in the tank, then replace everything from the tank to the injector pump/injectors. This includes lines, filters, etc.

These little Kubotas are tough engines. How many hours on the clock? Most haven't had proper maintenance and like Todd said, have roached drivelines. Good luck, keep us posted, and let's see some pics if ya snag it Earl. :beerchug:

So I went and looked at it today. As far as I can see the only thing wrong with the engine is the pre pump (low pressure pump). It's missing the side panels and needs paint. The current owner said he never used ether, that he only put a little diesel down the air intake to get her running. I'm going to get it, I'm fine with his asking price only because he's allowing me to pay for it a little at a time. Lucky for me he's not in a hurry to sell it. Oh it has front ports as well so that makes me happy happy happy...

He put diesel down the intake, OK that scares me even more. Let me guess this is your first time at the rodeo with a diesel. It's not like a gasser that you pour a little gas into the carb and it fires up. A diesel requires a measured amount of fuel to be injected into the combustion chamber at just the right time during the compression stroke to fire.

Your $$$, your deal, glad your happy, happy,happy. Me I'd be saying I'll give you X amount of $$$ if I can get it running less parts cost's. Good luck on this one.

Cool beans Earl. Not sure what pump your talking about but the 782D's & 882's had 2 fuel pumps. One was electric and one was mechanical. Then they figured that the mechanical pump on the engine wasn't needed and discontinued using them on the 1572's. Side panels are easy to find. How well does it run and how is the driveline? We need pics too.

Earl,
Good luck. Smokers are neat tractors to own. Just ask Todd. :biggrin2:

Todd,
My 782D only has the electric fuel pump. I don't think its ever had the mechanical one. Did they all come from factory with them, or just some of them? :bigthink:

This is the answer boys. You can't dump diesel fuel down the intake and make it run. Not gonna happen. I'd say there's more to the ol' story. I wouldn't give 1K for it.


Early 7's had both, the late 7's only had the electrical. That's what the parts book shows anyway.....

This one has two pumps a small in line on the left side near the battery. And another on the block, the drive line seems near perfect I didn't drive it but it did run fine and that smell of the smoker is what solidified the deal for me...


Sam mac I've had plenty of diesel experience. From tractors to trucks. You are right and wrong, you can indeed spritz fuel through the intake to get them to run. Had a Ford with a 3208 cat and that was the only way to start it on a cold morning. Also had a Yanmar tractor that you would have to do it too if it was hot and you went to restart it. Oh and had an 85 chevy with a 6.2 the fuel pump was weak and wouldn't build the pressure to fire, a squirt in the intake and she was off to the races... :biggrin2:

On an IDI..... I could maybe see this working. On a DI, like the 3208..... eh, I'm thinking luck. Hand more to do with crank time than fuel in the intake.

I still think you may be in for $$$ repairs, but maybe your one of those "lucky" guys. :bigeyes: May just be bad glow plugs. Good luck. :beerchug:

Earl

If you say so. Guess I know nothing about diesels. :beatdeadhorse:

So starting fluid in diesels isn't supposed to work? Hmm you've caught my attention. I want to know more!! haha :bigthink:

I ask because the farm I work on, the old Ford loader they use for snow moving is a cold/slow cranker so the farmer keeps on a can of starting fluid on it (for use during the winter only). If that's now what is making it fire off, I'll stop using it!

Here are some pics of the pump / no pump. Jimbob, read the link I posted. Pretty scary stuff.

A diesel won't run off ether alone, there has to be some diesel fuel in the cylinder or its a no go.

On big diesels in cold weather sometimes it's the only way to get them going as long as it's used sparingly. I used plenty of it my self on old Cummins to get them going.

Phew, ok. All we'd ever do is give a couple spritzes to the air cleaner, just enough to "richen" things up so to speak :biggrin2:

Oh, yes they will. If you use enough. Done it.

Really? Any time I've ever used ether to start a diesel I've found that if you use just a bit to much it hydro locks the engine.

Depends on the engine and situation with the ether. Also depends on the procedure. Alot of tractors came from the factory with ether inducers built in for that super cold start. Sometimes the block heater/tank heater wasn't enough. On the 806 or 1206 that needed a little help when cold, we'd get the engine turning over, then hit the ether button for a very short time. It would pull in the ether evenly so to speak. I cringe when I see these guys hop on a tractor. Push the ether button for 20-30 seconds, then hit the starter. :biggrin2: Poor tractor. A little goes a long way. We usually would plug the tractor in hours before we needed it and it would start without anything. Never use ether in glow plug tractors.

Todd,
Thanks for the picture clarification.

Jonathon,
Thanks for the info about the early versus late 782D changeover.

Ether is very volatile. A little goes a long way. Once a tractor is started, if you keep spraying ether at the air intake, air cleaner, they will keep running on the ether alone. Not very well and not good for an engine, but it will run. I, too have seen it.

It doesn't "hydro lock", ether ignites way early (like advance timing) ignites way before piston hits TDC, so it actually works in reverse. Fires off, then pushes against the starter. (This usually only happens when you get too much in the engine.)


And yes, I have seen them blow to pieces with too much also. I wish I had some pics, but it was in the days before cell phones with cameras. Hell, it was before everyone had cell phones, LOL. I used to have what was left of a piston and a rod that I had to cut out of the motor with a torch. What it did to that rod was the coolest thing I ever saw. Twisted the wrist-pin end 90°, then bent the rod in a "U" and wedged it in the top of the block.:bigeyes: But didn't break the rod.

i have to use a spritz of ether to start my GMC with the 6.2 diesel in it. even in 90 degrees she needs ether. i spray it in the air cleaner tube that runs to the passenger side of the grill. by the time it reaches the engine the solution is just enough to start it, but weak enough not to make it knock and bang.

Ether will also cause the engine to fire backwards. Resulting in the engine running backwards which is incredibly detrimental. Had that happen on the 3208 cat, which is why we went to spritzing diesel in it. I wasn't saying you don't know what you are doing j-mech. I'm just telling you what we have done over the years. We all know that sometimes what is not supposed to work will work..:beer2:

Only some diesel engines will run backwards. The early 3208's would. So would a Mack, and a Detroit. Most won't. It has to do with the grind on the cam in the injection pump.

The one we had was a late 80's or early 90's and she would run backwards in a heartbeat. If you used a smidgen too much ether or choked it down by lugging it. It was in a Ford 9000 mobile home toter so that happened often in the sand hills of SC or if we were in heavy mud. Shut it down wait 20 minutes and give her a go again. Usually though the weight of it sitting fallow would cause it to be stuck even more. We had a 400 Cummins from the early 80's that wasn't near as bad but would do the same thing.