2072 leaking around drive shaft
 

As the title says my 2072 is leaking around the drive shaft where it enters the transmission. I have seen a few posts implying that the shaft gets worn resulting in the leak. Is this correct? If so how is the best way to attack this? If not is there a seal that can be replaced or what? I am in a bad way here and need to get the ol girl back to work. Is there a temporary solution like using some lucas stop leak or something like that? Any information or guidance is greatly appreciated.

JD

ive never touched that model tractor but i can tell you that until you tear it apart you wont know if the shaft is worn or if the seal just went bad. as far as an easy fix goes you may be able to use a speedi sleeve if you can find on the proper size.

Thanks for the advice. I guess I should have asked for direction on how to get into it or if there is a manual or a write up to refer to.

JD

There is a seal yes. It's not too bad to replace. Yes there is a manual, it's in our tech section. You can find it here. Page 3-49 is where the section starts to show how to replace the seal.

Excellent thanks for the direction fellas.

JD

This seems to be a stupid question on my behalf but what how do I know if it's model 682, 782 or 982? There are different directions for the different models.

JD

You said it was a model 2072. :Huh: So, it IS NOT a 682, 782, or a 982....

I have no idea where you are getting that info. Go to the page in the book that I linked you too. It is for the 2072. I gave this info in post #5.

There is nothing to changing it and I think they are all the same. Just make sure that you mark the housing so you put it on the same way. Pull the drive shaft off, the two bolts and drive the old one out. The new seal is a NAPA 6204 or a National 471466. I think the seal is only about $5 so I would try a new one first before you try any repairs to the shaft. Now is a good time to check your drive shaft for worn parts. That maybe what caused the seal to fail. Good luck!

Years ago my 1572 started leaking at the seal intermittently. It would be fine for a mowing or two then start leaking again. I simply took the old seal out and replaced it with not problems, but the leak continued. As I dug into it further, I found that the pump shaft had worn in an egg-shaped fashion right at the first internal bearing. I suspect it was from the drive-line clutch running in an off-center condition due to a worn bronze drive shaft bearing that I had replace the year before. One thing leads to another.

Jonathon I don't think the manual calls out the 2072 specifically in that section so it's confusing.

USE THE 982 info- it's a Super like your 2072

goodluck-

I see that I made a mistake. I listed the wrong page. It's page 3-39, not 49. My bad. Still, nothing confusing about this process.

I apologize it was late and I was looking at the wrong page.

Thanks for the part number. What exactly should I be on the lookout for regarding the shaft?

A groove wore in it where the seal rides.
Any wear in the driveline components.

I finally got it apart. That large roll pin was a mother...What is the input shaft suppose to look like? Is it suppose to be one constant diameter? It appears to have a groove worn in it from the bearing which is bad. Not getting a very good vibe about this. If pictures are needed I will get some up. Thanks again for the knowledge fellas.


JD

Pic would be good but if the bearing in the charge pump wore a groove in the shaft that is bad.

Upon further inspection I am sure it isn't suppose to look this way. Here are some photos anyways. Any further suggestions on what to do now are welcome. This looks like a day ruiner to me.

http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l2...717_212124.jpg

http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l2...717_212047.jpg

That's a little ugly. Cant tell from the pics how bad it worn. You may want to contact the sponsors at the top of the page and see if they have a good used pump for a Super. You could also try member rweaver. A new shaft is more than a good used pump.

I figured as much. So do I need to shop for a pump or a transmission? I think they are probably one in the same. Forgive my my ignorance I just have never gotten this deep into my cub. Also what is a reasonable price for a pump? I seen the shaft is $500 to $600 new.

JD

You can buy just the hydro without the transaxle. Should set you back around $125-$150.

That's exactly what the pump shaft on my 1572 looked like when the seal was leaking on mine. The seal could only contain the oil while the shaft run-out was small enough to maintain shaft contact with the seal lip. If you look closely where the shaft is worn and egg-shaped, you will also see a narrow gouge in the shaft. that is from the shaft contacting the cage of the roller bearing in the hydro. For the quickest and cheapest repair, I ended up swapping out the hydro unit with one my friend had. It's been running fine like this for 10 years now.

I was just quoted $500 twice for used hydro pumps. Is the pump what you are referring to ?

This is what your looking for.

Super pumps are not cheap if you can find one. It would surprise me if you could get one to your door for less then $250. What if you JB Welded (or some other type of "stuff") the groove and get it back to where it needs to be and reassemble? Pump is toast anyway, watcha got to lose?:bigthink: If you get your driveline back in shape maybe you'll be okay?

Can't do that Todd. The bad spot runs on a needle bearing. It'll eat the JB off quicker than quick, plus the crap shaving off would get in the pump.

Last hydro pump I bought was in the price range I posted. It wasn't a super pump, but they're all the same except the output shafts. Could use a GT pump, and swap parts. Unless you have a rear PTO. Then only the GT pumps from a cyclops and above will work. Has to have the splined output top shaft.

Give the sponsors a try up top. If they don't have anything, let us know. There's a few other guys out there.

Oops, yep I forgot how the needle bearing rides the shaft. Soon there won't be many of these pumps around, I know it would be a lot of work but could the shaft be sleeved? I'm pretty sure that shaft is hardened so maybe it can't.....just trying to think outside the box:biggrin2:

My buddy is a tool maker he suggested maybe welding the shaft up and turning it back down to size. Do any of you have any thoughts on that idea?

The two $500 quotes I received were both from site sponsors.

Great input here guys I truly appreciate it.

Buy one of these
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hydro-Pump-f...item20e93429dd

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Cub-Cadet-18...item1e8ecda6d4

Put your pump and the new pump side by side, take them apart and make one good Super pump out of the two of them. You can put the input shaft from this one in your pump or the output shaft from your pump in this one. Put new seals in while your in it and your good. Upgrade your drive shaft with a CV style at the same time with a shaft from a 2084 or a 2284.

This is a thread I did a while ago, it should give you a good idea about what your getting into.
http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=21261

I'm not a big fan of welding and turning shafts, you can easily warp something or harden/anneal the existing shaft depending on the material it is made of. IF you have the right connections, how about having it nickel plated and then ground back in. We do this quite often where I work, the nickel wears better than the original. I wish we were able to do the nickel plating in house. Hard chrome may be another option. I know nickel can be done over a specific area, don't know if that can be done with hard chrome or how thick it can be put on. Flamesspray may be an option, but there may be the same problems associated with welding.

I wouldn't suggest it. It will cost more by the time your done. Plus, good change it wouldn't work anyway.


Do this. Best idea. :beerchug:

It's chance not change. Grammar police got busted!

Bill

Burn..... ouch! :biggrin2:

That was a spelling error, not grammar though.:BlahBlah::BlahBlah:

Thank you all for the priceless information. I am mulling over my options. I do not really have the facilities or time to take the project on at the moment. I really don't want to get rid of the tractor but I may be left with no choice. I will update here what happens. Thanks again.

JD

Ok if any of you here can give me just a lil more info I will be grateful. I found a 1720 that is being parted out. The owner says it was jerking in forward and reverse. Says it was full of fluid but it smelt burnt. First off will the 1720 pump be a direct match for my 2072 and secondly would it be worth messing with or just use parts from it?

No it will not work. Not even close. Completely different set up.

Ok so the shafts or nothing will work?

No. Like I said, not even close. Completely different hydros.

Why not look at a shaft repair sleeve to repair the issue. Just looked at them in McMaster Carr. Can be repaired in the tractor. They are made out of wear resistant Stainless Steel and they come with an installation tool. $45 is what they cost. Sure beats $200-$500 for another pump. We have used them at work with very good success. :beerchug:

Which model tractors share the exact one as my 2072 has and which tractor models are compatible pending the shaft swap? I understand my pump part number is 717-3034. I would like the compatible part numbers as well since some are listed by tractor and some are listed by part number.

JD