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-   -   3204 Slipping/Surging Issues (https://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/showthread.php?t=33249)

natedavies 07-14-2014 02:10 PM

3204 Slipping/Surging Issues
 
Hey everyone,

I am new to this forum and new to Cubs. I just got 2003 3204 from the Original Owner.

The only problem with the tractor is that when you press the on the forward pedal the tractor jerks/surges forward and then will run smooth for awhile, then jerks again. This is much more noticeable when going uphill. Sometimes the engine will even start to stall out. My first thoughts were that it was something with the transmission, because the tractor will start and idle with no problems at all. I checked the filter and oil for the transmission and everything looks good there (which is what i expected, the owner said it was changed in the fall and hasn't been used since) After browsing on here I saw some info on adjusting the neutral control solved similar but not exact issues for others, everything there seemed fine as well.

While I had the rear end jacked up I tried to duplicate the problem. But I was able to run smoothly in both forward and reverse with no issues at all.

Another thing I noticed is that with the wheel weights now off the tractor jerks/surges/slips much more frequently.

I am hoping someone here has some other ideas on the cause of the problem.

Thanks for any insight you might have!

J-Mech 07-14-2014 06:20 PM

So..... this sounds more like an engine problem than a trans issue. Does the engine surge when all this happens?

natedavies 07-14-2014 08:36 PM

The engine doesn't seem to be surging. Since it's hard to explain I took a quick video this evening. Maybe this will help. Thanks for your input.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SVIU_9me6k8

J-Mech 07-14-2014 08:51 PM

Couple things:

*You sure the filter was changed? Or just the oil. And did the PO mean the engine or the trans?
*Check the bolts that hold the rear in. Make sure they are tight. While your there, check the frame for damage.
*Check the linkages for the pedals and make sure nothing is broken.

I really think you may find the rear is loose from the frame.

Sam Mac 07-15-2014 07:22 AM

Check the trans oil and the level.
Check the filter and make sure it's the correct filter
Check the trans attachment bolts
Check the linkage
If that doesn't solve the issue remove the filter and cut it open and see if you have metal in it that would indicate a failure. Wondering if that tractor has the diff lock and if maybe someone engaged it while was spinning causing a failure.

Oak 07-15-2014 02:23 PM

How does the steering and lift work? I think I would change the fluid a and filter in the rear. Get a NAPA 1410 or a Wix 51410 and use Rotella T 15/40 for testing because it is cheaper then the liquid gold Cub recommends. It sounds like the pump is cavitating in your vid. IIRC the hubs are splined and could be stripped also causing the problem. Make sure your hydro release lever on the back of the tractor is in the proper position and that the lever on the transmission housing is in the proper location. These tractors can have problems with the gerotor also, but if the lift and steering are working then it should be okay.
I agree with Sam, cut that old filter open and see what it looks like.

Sam Mac 07-15-2014 02:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Oak (Post 274237)
How does the steering and lift work? I think I would change the fluid a and filter in the rear. Get a NAPA 1410 or a Wix 51410 and use Rotella T 15/40 for testing because it is cheaper then the liquid gold Cub recommends. It sounds like the pump is cavitating in your vid. IIRC the hubs are splined and could be stripped also causing the problem. Make sure your hydro release lever on the back of the tractor is in the proper position and that the lever on the transmission housing is in the proper location. These tractors can have problems with the gerotor also, but if the lift and steering are working then it should be okay.
I agree with Sam, cut that old filter open and see what it looks like.

Todd

I just looked at the parts breakdown on parts tree, the hubs are indeed splined. That could explain it being jerky and he said it got worse after taking the wheel weights off. You may be on to something. :bigthink:

J-Mech 07-15-2014 02:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sam Mac (Post 274241)
Todd

I just looked at the parts breakdown on parts tree, the hubs are indeed splined. That could explain it being jerky and he said it got worse after taking the wheel weights off. You may be on to something. :bigthink:

But it doesn't do it in reverse...... If it was cavitating, it would do it in forward and reverse. :bigthink:

natedavies 07-16-2014 11:42 AM

Thanks, for all the input everyone!

To the answer the questions:

The steering, deck lift, and this tractor and another hydro output out front for a plow all work fine no problems at all.

I took a look at it this morning. There were 4 bolts holding the rear end onto the frame. 2 of those bolts were a little loose. 1 was very loose. I tightened then up. And it did get much better. It only jerks when you first start to go forward. After you get started it's smooth, slow about 3.5 mph. But it's not jerking constantly anymore. Are there other bolts holding the rear end on other then the 2 on each side right rear the wheel hubs?

Also I jacked it up and noticed there was a little play (maybe a 1/4"-1/2") when spinning the rear axle before it felt like it engaged the transmission. Is that normal?

I do plan on a changing the oil and filter in both the trans and the engine. But that'll have to wait until the weekend.

I couldn't find in the service manual how to check if the throttle cable is properly adjusted? Any tips? Maybe that will help with the speed.

Another thing i noticed is that the tractor will still drive, slowly, while the lever in the back to put it in the neutral position rather than the drive position.

Thanks again! You guys are great!

natedavies 09-28-2014 06:44 PM

Hey all,

Thanks for all your help!

I finally had time to revisit this problem. I changed the engine oil and filter, trans oil and filter, fuel filter and lines, and air filter. I cut the trans filter open. No metal shavings or anything. The hydraulic fluid actually looked new.

I also replaced all the bushings in the linkage for the pedals. That made the pedal operation much better.

It's still surging when you finish accelerate forward. Working fine in reverse.

Also when the lever in the back is set to the disengaged position the tractor will still move forward and backward, just slower and it does not surge.

Could something just not be adjusted properly? Any other thoughts on things to check.

Thanks!

Oak 09-28-2014 09:23 PM

Sounds like transmission problems. See if you can take a sharpie and mark the hub to the axle and see if it is stripped. Run it and see if your mark moves, if not pull the rear cover and look for problems. I have not heard of the problems your having yet on any of the forums. Good luck and let us know what you find

natedavies 09-29-2014 01:40 PM

Thanks,

I will take a look at the hub and axle when I get home tonight.

I am wondering, should you be able to drive the tractor with the lever for the transmission pulled out to the disengaged position?

Oak 09-29-2014 04:12 PM

Nate, you may want to do a post on MTF. There are a lot of 3000 series owners over there too.
http://www.mytractorforum.com/forumdisplay.php?f=19

natedavies 11-17-2014 11:38 AM

Hi everyone,

Final got to revisit this and took the tractor back to the cub dealer. It ended up being two bolts the plate at the front of the transmission were loose. Felt a little silly have to take it to the dealer and pay labor for that but at least it's fixed.

Part 11 on this diagram:
http://www.partstree.com/parts/?lc=c...&dn=0053200004

Thanks for all the help!

Duane lamley 08-02-2019 12:26 AM

3185 oil leaks
 
My 3185 was jerking . Found the hydro adapter coupling and wavy spring washer had come loose. The shaft going into hydro wasn’t turning. I had to take fenders off? I rebuilt three hydraulic valves with all new o rings in valves and all lines. Installed new input hydro seal. Then replaced four plastic flange bushings on pedals. Moved onto steering slop and ordered new parts for lower coupling and plastic cup. I painting little stuff as I go such as levers and Parker’s and lift parts. Lubing all as I go. The Parker valve had too long of a bolt going into one valve. I had to hone it to get spool back in. What a nightmare those three valves were getting out and repairing. Going to remove battery next to paint pedestal then 2 new tires. I'll check bearings and axle bronze, then onto deck rollers, and front wheels. I'll strip all both sides, prime, and paint. I made new rubber lever pad for left fender. I punch kit and traced out old one. Used razor blade between punch holes and used a socket for lever centering holes. Turned out perfect. I saved 20 dollars. Unfortunately my original left brake light had cracks so will get a new one. This all started from a blown tran side crank seal on engine, so will keep going on it.

ol'George 08-02-2019 08:06 AM

So what is the point of all this
replying to a 5 year old thread?
:Huh:

Duane lamley 08-03-2019 11:00 AM

My hydro adapter coupling at rear of driveshaft came loose. A nut and a wavy spring washer. Had to take rear fan blade out for access. 20 ft in’s torque. I could see that rear shaft going into hydro wasn’t turning with driveshaft.

ol'George 08-03-2019 11:19 AM

Well we are glad you got your little problem fixed, but replying to the original persons questions is like showing up for a reported fire, 5 years after it happened,nice gesture but a little late.

I see you are new, so in the future it might be more beneficial to either start a new thread if you have a problem, or respond to a current post so it is helpful to other people.

Now if you just want to chat there is "off tropic" or general talk, jokes/humor etc.etc

Welcome to OCC!! :beerchug:


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