Ball joints
 

Maybe one of you guys can clear this up for me. I need to replace the ball joints on the ends of the draglink and tie rod the part number I see on the cub parts lookup is (old #723-3000 - New #923-3000) The local CC dealer wants like $16 each for them but I found them at Tractor Supply; the only difference is the part #723-3018a. I have been trying to figure out if this is the same joint or not as looking at the image on their site they appear to be identical to the ones that I have on the tractor now.

The TSC number you posted does not come up on the parts look-up site. My guess is, it's specific to TSC. Take your old one with you and match it up. Ball joints are not a CCC specific part. FWIW, the ones you get at TSC won't last long. Better off ordering a set from McMaster Carr.

Yeah thanks, after posting I did some research and the one's that they sell the stud is a bit shorter than the original. Not going to work anyhow so no worries. I will swing by the CC dealer and grab a couple at lunch!

I use the ones from tsc with no problem. the stud being shorter is not an issue, i just use a lock nut instead of a castle nut. never had an issue with them not lasting either.

So in your opinion the shorter stud isn't going to be an issue? I honestly think that there is quite a bit of thread above the nut after these were installed.

Thats correct, i just put a set on my 108 with a lock nut and had plenty of thread to spare.

Fwiw i put a set of tsc ends on my grandfathers 100 about 5 yrs ago and there still going strong.

IMHO there are too many cotter pins on these things as it is LOL a couple less that I have to mess with is a plus!!!

I guess it just depends on how much you use your machine. I never got any life out of RK, TSC, and the others.

I mow twice a week and my grandfather uses his just about daily, im not saying you haven't had different results but from my experience i dont see a reason to pay twice as much for cc ends.

The TSC ball joints work fine. Just make sure to get the 3/8 24 thread size. I have always picked up the edge of the rubber seal and worked grease into the joint. Every little bit helps. :beerchug: I just put a set on my 147.

I guess if they fit and work all good and I can get two for the price of one at TSC. I was just concerned with the shorter stud there wouldn't be enough thread sticking up to get a nut on.

While Im there I will pickup a rattle can and touch up the rods before I put them back in as well.

One of these days, I'm going to investigate this further.

Some of my Cubs have tie rod ends that are longer (where the rod screws in) if you try to replace them with new ends you can either only screw them onto the rods a few threads (maybe 3 or 4 threads) or they are too short altogether and you can't use the new ones at all without welding a nut onto the rod end to give them enough length.

Just from memory, I don't know if this is model specific or random. I keep wanting to think that it is the older ones that have the longer ends.

I do know that on one of my tractors someone else had welded nuts to at least one of the ends to make it longer and if my memory is correct they did all 4 of them that way.

If anyone knows the real poop on this, I would really appreciate finding out exactly what the deal is.

If they are original, I would say CC or IH, (whichever the case may be) used different manufacturers for the tie rods. Perhaps one company couldn't fill an order, or the particular style ran out and a longer rod still fit and functioned. Or perhaps they have been replaced at some point. There are a hundred different styles and sizes of ball joints.

I know this from investigating this today...the part .0156 is identical in size to the .3000 end, the only difference is the .3000 has a hole for a cotter pin. On the other side of the coin, the .3018 the stud end is 5/8" in length as opposed to 7/8" on the other two. This was my original concern as to would there be enough thread to get a nut on given the thickness of the steering knuckle. Yeah it's only a 1/4" less, and if memory serves me I do believe that there was more than enough thread above the castle nut on the original end.

Plenty of room, i think i have an extra 1/8 inch of thread on mine with a flat washer and lock nut

Sounds good TSC here I come woo hoo :Thanks:

Just my 2 cents, but i got solid stainless ones, That are otherwise identical to the originals for like 6-7$ a piece from mcmaster....

That would be nice especially if they are good grade Stainless no rust no worries. But I need to mow therefore I have to get the steering gear pointing in the right direction before mother scalps me

I use the TSC joints on my 1250 with no problem. I usually replace them every couple of years.

Usually with mcmaster its the next day or day after, as far as shipping goes...

That was my issue...... They should last longer. So now, I use a better rod end.

Since the debate is open, what is the general opinion on the heim joint ends?

http://ccspecialties.org/pics/heimjoint.jpg

http://ccspecialties.org/pics/923-3000%20joint.jpg

I think I have a couple of these in my "some day" cub parts box to try out. McMaster sells them too for, well, more economy.

I like the grease fitting on these.

Well the TSC ends are on... the stud end is a wee bit short but the lock nut worked well. I will give them a go and see what happens.

Would you mind posting a pic just so I can better understand exactly how this all worked out. I also read on another site the the joints with the grease port do not have the travel needed to work correctly.

I am at work now but I can get a few pics of them installed later on today!

Me too.. They're fairly affordable from McMaster with the zerk.

But I wonder how well they work. Some info that I have been reading says that they do not swivel enough to work. I'll try to find the link to that conversation again.

A heim joint should have way more freedom than the ball joint, but?

My bigger questions are of cost vs. benefit and if the zerk is really an advantage over a tie rod when you consider the heim joint is completely unsealed.

The CC end is steel ball in steel socket.
No grease, no oil, no bronze, no slippery plastic.
It does not wipe the bearing surface clean when it moves.
It relies on the rubber sleeve/seal not drying out, splitting and falling off to keep abrasives out.

The Heim style can be had with oil impregnated bronze bearing surface.
Or a PTFE liner instead. The HEIM joint wipes the bearing surfaces clean when it moves.

If you use a non-stud type HEIM joint directly bolted with a bolt in the eye, then the movement will be restricted.
Use the stud style HEIM joint.

This is how they installed notice that the stud isn't quite to the top of the lock nut. The stud on the TSC ends is a tad shorter that the original. As you can see in the picture the draglink is bent.
[IMG]http://i1369.photobucket.com/albums/...psa572c3de.jpg[/IMG]

Sorry for the questions but which lock nut are you speaking of? It looks like the lock nuts are up against the ball joints? So how much thread is in that ball joint on the drag line that is bent? It looks like it is really not on that deep?

The stud on the original joint measured 7/8" on the new ones it is 5/8". The stud is almost to the top of the nut when it is tightened. The nut you are referring to is the jam nut...the nylon lock nut is the one holding the assy to the steering knuckle. and at the time I took this picture it wasn't tightened completely.

They also make a thin nyloc nut.

That was my first thought, my second was that they also make grinders. ;)

Take a little off of the bottom of the nuts. It doesn't appear to be a direct swap anymore though.

I had one on my MTD built Huskee that went bad within two years, the OEM replacement has lasted 12 yrs. No change in usage.