1450 build from a newbie
 

Howdy all,

This is my first cub. Picked it up from a guy and it became apparent the maintenace had not been in this machines life for about 10 years. It was running when i got it, so truth be told i was very happy abou that. I did one lap around the yard and brought it in for the overhaul.

This is my 1450 next to my generally worthless Craftsman DYS 4500. (well not worthless, my wife uses it to mow the front lawn, but my backyard is mountain and it just didnt have the...Gears.

http://i1310.photobucket.com/albums/...ps0e6264fc.jpg

What is sad is that i can see the original decals looking pretty clean through that rattle can black.

http://i1310.photobucket.com/albums/...ps8c0b4fe2.jpg

http://i1310.photobucket.com/albums/...ps59e509f3.jpg

Began the teardown

http://i1310.photobucket.com/albums/...psfbaf2a93.jpg

Im pretty sure this is factory

http://i1310.photobucket.com/albums/...ps7228f2ec.jpg

http://i1310.photobucket.com/albums/...ps70449680.jpg

http://i1310.photobucket.com/albums/...ps0e06f12f.jpg

http://i1310.photobucket.com/albums/...ps2dc1872b.jpg

No need for an air filter for the last few years

http://i1310.photobucket.com/albums/...psf692546e.jpg

http://i1310.photobucket.com/albums/...ps97269823.jpg

So far the only POL leak i have is from the transmission. Theres lots of little things i need to do cosmetically, but im going to re-wire, take the ol' kohler to the machine shop ect. There will be alot more to follow, but for now im off to locate parts.

I am currently looking for a cub parts dealer, or a good service shop in missouri, and the following parts

Dash tin, tie rod ends, better seat, all the other things you guys can see off hand.

Congrats on the 1450 pickup! Like most people, I had to go through mine when I bought it. It will be a great tractor when your done! That tie rod end looks familiar...is that 12 ga? I held mine on the same way for half a summer before I replaced it. You can get them a lot of places like McMaster Carr, it's a standard 3/8" rod end. Good luck! :beerchug:

Bill

Well l guess maybe the rattle can black kept it from rusting! Lol like the tie rod fix , whatever works for a temp fix I guess. Decals are easy maplehunter hast them I got ones for my 1200 from them look original.

:Morning: Good luck on the 1450, I am sure you will have it spiffy in no time. Also nice looking hound dog. :American Flag 1:

Great thread! I love seeing these transformations and will be watching as you progress. Thanks for all the pics, you have some work to do!

For your tie rod ends; pick up a couple sets of these:

4444T931

from this site:

http://www.mcmaster.com/

Good upgrade to the steering and they'll last forever :beerchug:

Good progress, and good luck!

Looks like its going to be a nice machine again.

Welcome to OCC, and good luck with your 1450!

What Allen said!:beerchug:

Welcome!

Good luck on the 1450, looks very familiar...

Nice late model 1450! Check with the OCC sponsors for replacement parts, and place an ad in the Wanted section of the forum. You should be able to find all the parts needed, friendly help and suggestions here at OCC. You can't beat that with a stick, especially when it's 100% better than the service you will get from the home-cheap'o box store, whom I feel sorry for those people who cut corners and play the angles to save two cents.

Your International Harvester 1450 Cub Cadet was built to last :Boxer:

Welcome to the forum!

:American Flag 1:

Looks like you could also use a new hydro fan.

Well, got a little more work done today.

Cleaned it up a little to see what what i was working with and pulled the Engine.

http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n...o/IMG_0280.jpg

http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n...o/IMG_0282.jpg

The parts are piling up
http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n...o/IMG_0281.jpg

And now the wait for the PB blaster to release my steering wheel
http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n...o/IMG_0283.jpg

Great job on the tear down. You'll find many ways to get the wheel off but I like the airhammer method the best and put a 5/16 bolt inside the tube to hit on. Some up pressure and it pops right off.

It cleaned up well, I will be watching your thread, looks good

Welcome to OCC. Looks like you are well on your way into the teardown. Ill be watching your thread.

You've been busy! Thanks for the update and pics.

Looking better already with some of the gunk gone.
Welcome to OCC:beerchug:

Hey, that tractor looks soooo much better after a bath! You've gotten a great start! Looking forward to seeing more pictures as your project progresses!

Glad to see another QL in restoration, actually I'm glad to see any IH Cub Cadet been restored! Some parts aren't easy to find but if you ever found a NOS dash tin your a lucky one, I didn't and try for a year without success :bash2:

Good luck:ThumbsUp:

Looks like you're making quick work of the teardown. The dash tin can be restored with a little fine steel wool, black paint, & clear coat. I repainted the tin on my 149/129 and cut the lettered sections from a decal set.

http://i934.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps976e0b17.jpg

Thanks everyone, For the last day i have been pricing out parts. The mechanical ones are all pretty reasonable, its the cosmetic that will be a piece by piece job. I want to say thanks to CC1650Dave for his thread it has really helped me out. you can find it here



I am ahaving a blast bringing this thing back to life, since i have bought newer vehicles i packed away almost all my mechanics tools. I build furniture as a hobby, one of many, so my garage has been oil free for some time. I love working on this wide frame because its so easy to do so, and its just big enough not to be too time consuming (although i will always be upgrading).

This forum is great, and its awesome there such a great community.

Once i get the tractor split i will post some more pics, and then its paint prepfor the frame and engine overhaul.

One question, i am not sure if i need a new muffler, the thing is still solid, no baffles are moving inside, but i am just not sure.

Does anyone recomend putting in a new one, and if so has anyone used aftermarket ones. Particularly this one from NAPA. It is a reasonable price, but i am not sure about fittment.

http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Ca...680_0215383964

I've generally re-used mufflers unless they were holed or otherwise damaged. I've purchased a couple new ones, they get pricey. That NAPA one is a different style compared to what that tractor originally had. The link you posted shows a muffler for the earlier Cub Cadets that don't have side panels. I actually used one like that on a build where I didn't put side panels on the tractor, so that style muffler worked out. Pictures here show how I used the heat shield (and fuel tank) from an earlier series--that made mounting the muffler easier. This was originally a 1450 but got a K301 transplant.

Well work is crazy busy right now, but i was able to get some work done sunday.

I have been halted by the steering wheel, and i was hopeing that some PB and a few stiff whacks would get it, but negative. so i will be building a puller pretty soon.

http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n...IMG_0283-1.jpg

When i pulled the mule drive (i may be calling it the wrong thing) i noticed that someone apparently went full speed into a tree with it. Does anyone have a picture of how their pulleys look. i just dont know if the whole thing is crooked or just the frame.
http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n...o/IMG_0295.jpg
http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n...o/IMG_0296.jpg
http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n...o/IMG_0297.jpg

Also, has anyone has success fixing something like this, or is my best bet just to use self tappers in a different location.
http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n...o/IMG_0299.jpg
Should this part have any wobble to it. Its a little less than 1/8". im worried it is a result of being run for a long time with no iso or engine bolts.
http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n...o/IMG_0302.jpg

and it looks like i will have to fab up a new bracket for the lever, this on has just given up
http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n...o/IMG_0301.jpg

The steering wheel should come off. Put the nut on it, engaging several threads (so the shaft almost comes flush with the top but not quite). Then use a 3 or 4 inch bolt with a large heavy washer on it, slide that down into the steering column. Now, apply upwards force to the wheel while tapping the bolt head (driving the steering center shaft downward). A few sharp whacks should knock it loose. (This has worked for me on all my tractors except the 72. That devilish machine refused to budge! So this method is no guarantee.)

Your mule drive does look bent, but the pulleys are "tilted" on QL tractors to accommodate the off center drive pulley on the 44A and 50A mower decks. The mounting frame of the mule drive should be square, though.

The loose drive collar on the hydro unit is typical. Knock that pin out, check the hole in the input shaft. If it's badly wallowed out, you might have to repair it, but generally they don't get that bad, and you can probably run it as is. Put in a new spirol pin when you reassemble. Most of mine have a little play in them.

If you absolutely cannot get the wheel off, look at my power steering post under customized cub cadets. It involves a nut, bolt, come along, hammer and wire. It works, believe me.

Mine was completely rusted, but otherwise structurally sound. I completely submerged in an electrolysis bath for about 24 hours and it cleaned up real nice, including on the inside(I'm assuming).A fresh coat of black paint and it looks and works like new one in your picture.

I have had good luck getting the steering wheel off by smacking the steering column(the threaded pipe in the center of the steering wheel) firmly with a hammer 3-4 times.

Put " steering wheel puller" in the search feature. Lots of info. On my 104 I drilled and tapped 2 holes in the metal part around the splines and used a harmonic balancer puller. I used 8-32,or 10-24 bolts, can't remember which, and had to drill and tap the holes at a slight outward angle so the bolts would go thru the slots in the puller. Makes it easy to take off next time. If you go this route use the protective cap on the puller screw so you don't mess up threads on column.

Good luck. Gonna be a nice tractor.

Chris

I put a bearing puller under the steering wheel and then use a 3 jaw puller to pull up on the bearing puller, then sit on the tractor, put your knees under the wheel and push up, then wack the center bolt of the puller, worked every time for me.

Well i got a little more work done today after finishing up the 4th of July festivities.

Finally got the steering wheel and column off, although it was at the cost of the wheel which took a stray blow by a hammer. So we will add that to the parts list.
http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n...o/IMG_0351.jpg

After that and some disconnecting of linkage, the tower was ready to come off.
http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n...o/IMG_0353.jpg

Then with a few more minutes and left over beers in the cooler, BAM split tractor.
http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n...o/IMG_0354.jpg

Then i got a little frisky and started to clean up the frame with a flap disk, but after about 20 min i decided that i am going to start calling around to see if i can get a good price on sandblasting everything but the sheet metal.
http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n...o/IMG_0355.jpg

Much like when i got into running jeeps and the jeepforum community, i am learning that what all of you have said about these things nickel and diming you to death is true. But my wife has gotten on board and even got me this as well as an IH hat for an early B-day gift.
http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n...o/IMG_0356.jpg

Nice progress pics. I too was on the jeep forum kick for a while and built a Pretty decent YJ. But now the garage is jeep less and has been replaced with small nickel and dimers. Sandblasting is the way to go, I just got a cabinet from harbor freight and it works good. Obviously won't hold a frame but some guys have come up with pressure washer blasters, soda blasters, and the whole remove paint with electricity concept. I'm actually using some awesome stuf called aircraft paint stripper, works well, chemical and very toxic so I'm careful but they're all fun to try. Good job and continue to keep us posted

The more tractors work on, the more I take to the sandblaster. It results in a better job overall. Nice progress! thanks for the pics.

Well im back to this. After i looked at it some more it appears that the PO, for some reason, re welded the front pulley assembly. and not only that but he did it all caddywampus.
http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n...o/IMG_0357.jpg
http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n...o/IMG_0358.jpg
http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n...o/IMG_0359.jpg
http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n...o/IMG_0360.jpg
http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n...o/IMG_0361.jpg
http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n...o/IMG_0362.jpg

Also, it would look as though some field quick work was done on the pulleys themselves.

My question, does anyone have pictures similar to the ones i took. only correct. I just need to get an idea of where i need to go with them.

Thanks for the pics and update!

Dad has the "big" HF cabinet and I've been using it for years. I've OFTEN thought about building a plywood extension for it to be able to do longer stuff. A 258 pan fit, but it was TIGHT.

The HF cabinet is a solid deal when its on sale. You'll want a drywall filter for your shopvac and you'll need to clean it out with compressed air frequently though.

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That mule drive is ALLLLLL hosed up and looks like someone was using it to knock over stumps. You may be better off looking for a $10 replacement somewhere.

Looking good so far! Have you started looking for your next Cub yet?

I have been looking around, and i'm just wondering why these were stamped upside down. any input?

http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n...o/IMG_0365.jpg

Well i got a little more work done this weekend. Got the axel housing all cleaned up and "re-surfaced" the gasket contact areas.
http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n...o/IMG_0427.jpg
http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n...o/IMG_0428.jpg

After i just couldnt help myself, i had to paint something before i went crazy.

http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n...o/IMG_0434.jpg

Im glad i did, it is motivating me to keep moving.

Yeah, progress!

I'm just taking a guess from my experience in the manufacturing world, but it may not have been upside down during production for unknown reasons.
Case in point, I worked in a tire factory where every tire had a 4 character model code painted on the face of the tread (VERY common). Throughout the entire process it was "upside down" in all of the equipment for the sole reason that once it was made into a finished tire, it would presented to the consumer as "right side up" when looking at the tire from the outside as it would be vehicle mounted (we made lots of raised letter and white wall tires). That's sorta backward to this situation, but you get the idea of why it could happen.