2072 deck not lifting to stops (pictures added)
 

I have a 2072 with 60" deck, 450 blower. When I removed my deck last fall to install blower the deck would come up and just touch the frame stops. Used blower all winter and reinstalled deck this spring and it is leaving 1" or so between lift arms and frame. I am at the end of adjustment on the two lift links which were new last summer and on deck when it fully lifted. Everything seems to be as it was last year and how the manual shows. I can still use it this way but it is not right and I would like it to fully raise. I rebuild the power steering and changed hyd oil and filter at same time this spring any chance a pocket of air in lift cylinder? Thanks for any help.

I'd take a good look at the rock shaft. Think I recall someone had a problem with the spirol pins being sheered.

The pins both are there and look to be in good shape. When using lever everything seems to be moving the full range in both directions with the tunnel cover removed.

I had this problem on my 1450 just a few weeks ago. It was only lifting on one side. One of the pins was sheared that holds the lift arm to the rock shaft. I removed both of the pins on the lift arms and replaced them with grade 8 bolts. Seems to be working fine so far. I had to use my air chisel to get them out.

Mine appeared to be good to. Take a pry bar and try to move the lift arms on the shaft. Mine only slipped on the shaft with the weight of the deck on them. Both lift arms should also be inline with each other.

both pins are through the rocker shaft with 1/8 " sticking through the outside of the rocker shaft. When using the lift lever with tunnel off the rocker shaft and inner shaft move together with no slipping. If the pins were sheared off would the rocker shaft not slip on the inner shaft?

It may not slip. Just because the pins are sticking out, doesn't mean they aren't bad. How about some pics. :bigthink:

I will get a couple of pictures the first chance I get

Here are a few pictures of the rocker shaft pins, the other side looks exactly the same but hard to get picture of. Also a picture of lift links fully extended in both directions. In the raised one you can see how the lift arm is not touching frame stops. One of mule drive and one complete tractor picture. Hope this helps to solve my problem. Thanks

This may seem like a dumb question but I have had it happen many times. Are you sure the lift stop is not hitting.

Not much help, but that's a nice 2072, you have there!

If you are referring to the lift stop knob I do not have on on my tractor. Not there when I bought tractor.

do the pictures show what you are looking for?

Not really. Take one from both sides far enough out that we can see the entire undercarriage and deck mounting points. Another like pics 2 and 3 just further away.

Is the fourth pic down with it in the fully raised position?

Also, you say that you rebuilt the power steering. Sure you got it back together correct? No way it has air in it, but it may be low on pressure. How's it steer? Does the relief valve whine when you hold it in the up position?

I will get some further away pics. The fourth picture is in fully raised position. I had a hyd. shop rebuild the power steering. It steers great from stop to stop with one finger no binding or weird noises the exact way it did before the rebuild but without leaking. I gave the shop the manual for the rebuild and the rebuild kit. There does seem to be a slight whine when the lever is held up after fully raised. I will have to get pictures tomorrow. Kids school concert tonight.

Hope these pictures are what is needed.

Take a look at the bracket on the opposite end of the lift cylinder. Make sure it isn't bent.

Also, I believe, there is supposed to be a pin here. Not locked into the lift arms, mind you, but there. Something about this pic doesn't look right to me.

Attachment 52694


I can explain what I see more, but if I were you, I'd take the deck off. Lower the lift all the way. With the tunnel cover off, reach under and push the lift arms up all the way. Make sure they will go all the way up, and look at the contact point of the arm where it meets the cylinder. I think your problem is there. If you see nothing, while it's in that position, put a pin in the hole I pointed to. I really think it's supposed to be there. You just pull it out, let your arms fall forward, and reinstall it to "lock" it and give it down pressure.

Removed deck this morning. Removed pin in end of cyl and retracted cyl. Lift arm moves free from end to end. Moved rod of cyl out all the way 2 1/4" and all back in. Reinstalled pin and tried again. Cylinder goes full range hooked to lift arms or not. Checked out putting pin in other hole. The pin would only go through one piece of the bracket hole never drilled through other side of u shaped bracket. If I install a pin here it would only be 3/8" long going through one piece of metal. With the cyl un-hooked I can move the lift arm down until they touch cross shaft which would give me about 1/16" move travel. There are no ware marks on the cross shaft from this ever happening. The front of the cyl bracket looks straight the way it should be. How muck clearance should there be where I have the screwdriver placed with cyl. hooked up. Thanks for any and all help.

Your not quite on the same page as I was.....

Here's the deal. I think it's missing a pin. Here's the pic from the parts book. Pin is circled in red.

Attachment 52705


Then you need set the lift all the way down, and rot the shaft by hand. Like this.

Attachment 52706


Then install the pin here.

Attachment 52707


I'm almost certain that you had a pin here before.

Jon

You nailed it, he is missing the pin. This is from an 1882 but same lift setup. Pin goes in through the hole on the out side of the frame. Other pic is from my 1782 operators manual.

Thanks Sam! I thought I was correct, but didn't have a tractor here to look at. Your pic confirms! :beerchug:

The pics above seem to look the same as my 1572. I could be wrong but I think the pin in question is in the very top of one of the pics. I can see about half of it. As far as I can see mine looks the same. I could be wrong. I know you guys have way more experience with these cubs than me.

Thanks for all of the great help. After listening and study pics and manual I think I am getting closer. I think bracket lift #3 has slipped and seized to rocket shaft ass. #2. On mine the lock out holes in #3 and #1 do not line up. When I get these to line up I can then put it back together like pics. Do #3 and #2 have a split pin also. I only have 2. On #1 through #2 between the deck lift arms. I am also missing #5 Pin ass. lift. Would it be possible to get a couple of pic. with measurements of #5 and I will make one. On mine pin #4 went through hole in frame, front hole closest to cly. on bracket lift#3, through hole in cly. with cotter pin on back no #5 pin ass. lift at all. Hope it is not too big of job to get it lied up properly. If it is it will have to wait until after mowing season as I use it a lot 6 acres +- ever time. As it is I can put it together the way it was use for season and have to keep taking my wheels off when getting out of garage. It stills mows great and lifts lots high for mowing just not right and I do not like it that way. Thanks again Kevin.

OK, you’re not getting this. First lower the implement lift so that the hydraulic cylinder is in the retracted position. Next grab ahold of the rock shaft ( #1) and rotate it counter clockwise as far as it will go if you are standing on the right hand side of the tractor (see red arrow). Next put a pin in the hole where #4 goes. In float the pin simply pushes against the face of #1, they are not locked together (see blue arrow on#1 and dot on #4) Number 3 is supposed to float on #2. Number 2 is pinned to #1 (see green arrows). The lift links that connect the mower deck will need to be disconnected in order to do this.

my #3 does not float on #2. It is seized. That is my problem.

Also I am missing #5.

Put some Power Blaster on #3, take the deck off, raise the lift, put some blocking under the lift arms and then lower the lift that should free it up. Don't worry about #5 just use the pin you have and add another in the other hole once you get it freed up.

Thanks for hanging in with me. Once I get that free I understand how it should work. Thanks, again