Fuel petcock, 1450
 

Hi all, the petcock on my Quietline tank has started leaking. I have already replaced the bushing once, and I think this valve isn't original, as none online look like it. My question is, this one has 3/8" hose barb on it, and all the ones I see for sale are 1/4". My new carburetor came with a small barb too, I think 1/4" but never measured it. What does your 1450/1650 have? The one on it now has a 1/4 turn lever and the ones for sale have a thumbscrew. Also, some have screens and some don't, I want a screen because there isn't much room for a filter. Thanks!

Also, while I am asking about fuel systems, when I was adjusting the fuel screws on the carb I found that I could turn them quite a ways before the engine speed dipped. Particularly the low speed mix, I turned it a turn and a half before I could hear the slightest speed drop. I set them up at 3200 and 1200 rpm using a 4 cyl dwell/tach and multiplying by four. (dwell was right around 32* so I think I got the points close enough.)

Hummm... Both of my QL tanks have the 1/4 turn deal and my 149 has the thumbscrew (steel tank). Maybe a common hardware store replacement? I believe they're both 1/4" too.

Also, I was able to put an inline filter between the petcock and the carb. NAPA sells a steel body unit that worked out just great! That screen in the petcock isn't nearly fine enough for my taste.

Sounds like some good advice was given.

btw my 1200 has a push pull type shutoff.it is the original one.

I checked the fitting that came with the carb and it was 1/4", so I ordered the petcock from Patton. I was hung up on "is 1/4" enough" and remembered that I used 3/8" on a built 440 many years ago, so for this little guy 1/4 is fine. I did set the timing per the manual and ran the valves, I just eyeballed the dwell since I was already using the meter for a tach. Gas engines, in my memory, like 28-32* so I knew I was at least in the ballpark. It already had 3/8 line on it, and any 3/8 inline filter I can find is too big to fit in the space between the firewall and the carb. It ran since '78 with a screen, so I'll be happy with that.

I have a 1000 that I used since new. I practically grew up on it because I did yard work and maintenance for a neighbor who gave it to me about 10 years ago. Anyway, it has a 90° valve at the base of the tank. The valve has a small red handle and is original to the tractor. From the serial # it was made in August 1977.

My 800 has the push/pull type of cutoff, a 1976 model.

I'm confused... You're using 3/8" line on a 1/4" nipple?

also.. I'm a a fuel filter nazi.. If it runs fuel and has a piston, I put a filter on it. If you end up with 1/4" line and change your mind I can probably attempt to take a picture of what I did on mine if you'd like to see it. It's nothing special.

My '79 1450 has the same 90 degree red handle. I hate having to loosen the side shield to turn the gas on and off every time, not to mention that it hits the foam of the firewall as well. :bash2:

Bill

My 1650 too has this shutoff. I have not worried about shutting it off for two years with no ill effects.:Huh:

I park it in the attached garage during the winter for snow removal. My wife walked in the there once and the carb needle did not seat and leaked all over. I now get asked every time I park it if the gas is off.

Bill

My 1000 has the push-pull fuel shut off too. Only QL I've seen with one. Well, of the 5 I've worked on. :biggrin2:

And I've had the carb needle stick on my 108, and, over the winter, drain the fuel tank on to a shed floor.

Someone left the firewall out of mine many years ago (I think it may have come with the tractor in a box of parts) so I'm not sure it hits it. BUT... I did buy a "bubba'd up" side tin on ebay for $5 that someone popped a hole in for shut off access. No need to remove it now and no guilt about doing it to my tins! :)

It had 3/8 line, carb fitting, and shutoff when I bought it. A 1/4" filter will be much easier to find in an appropriate size.

My shut-off valve looks like the one on this tank:
http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t...psf01234a0.jpg

Notice the red arm on the valve. It is a 90° close valve.

The picture came from this thread: http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=32139

Bob, that is what mine had. I have a new thumbscrew type to install today. I liked it because it is difficult to reach with the sides on, but with a new carb I don't expect any needle/seat or float problems.

My valve is leaking. The valves I see are all the screw in type.

Yes, I couldn't find the lever type. I like the non-leaking style much better tho. :biggrin2:

:Morning: My CC149 like Maxwelhses has the thumb screw shut fuel shut off and I also have a fuel filter between the the tank outlet and the carb. inlet. I use a clear filter from NAPA. :American Flag 1:

My 1250 Nightmare has the 1/4 turn ball valve on its fuel tank.

I took a heavy wire coat hanger, cut out a piece of the hanger and bent a v in one end to turn on the fuel, and bent a hook on the other end to turn off the valve. A magnet holds the tool to the tunnel cover. I never have to loosen the thumbscrew for the side cover.

My side covers have 1/4" bolts. I thought about locktiting a stud in there and using a wingnut. For now I'll leave the fuel on unless I'm not going to run it for a month, we'll see if it leaks.

Most decent hardware store have wing head bolts like it would have shipped with. If not McMaster-Carr certainly does.

I bought a pair from Ace with my $5 reward card they sent me in the mail.