105 engine power take off
 

I need some more help with another problem on the 105. I'm trying to take off the drive pulley on the front of the engine. I've removed the two set screws that are accessed through the clearance holes on the stamped sheet metal piece. I've sprayed the set screw holes with PB blaster. Should the pulley come off now? My next thought is to rig a gear puller across the front of the frame and use that as the stationary point. I'm attaching two pictures. Thanks again for any help.

There are 6 1/4-20 set screws in the white PTO pulley that need to be removed so you can get that part off first. Then when that is removed you will encounter a bearing with a lock collar that has to be removed and last but not least you can take off the starter/gen pulley.:beerchug:

The 1/4-20 set screws use a 1/8" allen / hex wrench. I highly recommend using a high quality wrench and make sure you are seated as deep as possible to reduce the chance of rounding off the set screws.

Once you get the PTO off, it will look like this. Remove the set screws on the PTO bearing collar and see the indent on the collar at about 11:00 ?

Use a punch to drive the eccentric to where the locking collar is loose. It can then be removed.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v7...1.jpg~original

you can also "renew" the allen wrench by grinding the end off a bit so that your using new sharp hex material.

Also a good idea to turn the pto so that each set screw hole is up or at least at 10 & 2 so you can fill the holes with PB Blaster overnight.
Then do the third hole the next morning.

Is everyone having pulley problems as of late. Geesh. Good luck with the removal. I just did mine and my only issue was a snap ring on the new bearing. Should u decide on a new bearing on reassembly, take snap ring out if it has one.
I've no idea if it was necessary but I also used anti seize on the set screws during reassembly

Good luck with it

I've removed the three set screws from the pulley and sprayed the holes with PB blaster. I cannot get the pulley to come off. I've attached some pictures of how I'm using a crowbar with vice grips as the pivot point. Light taps with a hammer does not budge the pulley. Am I missing something else? Thanks for all your help.

I have used a piece of hardwood against the V groove and tap from both sides to get it off.

Key word is "tap", not beat the snot out of it :biggrin2:

If it was done the same as the factory did it, there are three more set screws down in the same holes.
The first set screw is short and blunt nosed.
That one is just used like a jam nut to the next set screw under it.
The next set screw is long and pointy nosed.

Oh, I'll go check. I didn't realize there would be a second set screw.

That worked! The last three screws were holding the pulley on. My question now is a dumb one. How does it work? I was expecting something to move in and out that would somehow engage the engine shaft. Now that the pulley is off what should I be looking for that might need replacing? The bearing seems fine. The three screws with the springs and jamb nuts, anything to check on them? Not sure what the springs do. Thanks again!

In the engaged (or relaxed) position the fiber disc with teeth meshing with the S/G pulley basket is squeezed in between the pto belt pulley and the metal disc portion of the pto unit on the engine side.

Just like on an automotive manual transmission clutch assembly.
Except the power is being transferred from the inner diameter of the driver (S/G pulley basket) inwards to the pto belt.

The bearing should cost less than $20 so I would replace even if the old one "felt" good.
How much slop between the fiber gear and the S/G basket pockets?
If all of the teeth are there and it can only move like 1/8" back and forth in the basket pockets, I would reuse it.

The coil springs push that metal disc away from the pto belt pulley so that it does not drive the fiber disc/gear.

I've got an old wooden hammer handle that the head rotted off that I use...it's still strong enough to be used as a soft punch to tap off the PTO. Normally I tap one one side, spin the engine (spark plug wire removed) and tap it some more.

Since I've never used this cub cadet before with implements, does the clutch pulley always turn? I guess that's what has me confused. Thanks again!

The PTO should be left on if no implement is on the tractor. If left disengaged with no belt, it will wear out the buttons on the lever and the clutch. It rely's on some of the friction for the implement to keep it from turning when disengaged. Otherwise, the pulley should not turn when it's disengaged. Make sense?

Thanks, I'll double check tomorrow but I'm pretty sure that the pulley turns when the lever arm is in the forward position (disengaged).

I said that wrong, forward lever position is engaged.

I learned that two weeks ago.
Transplanted a different engine into my 127.
Had to see if it would start before putting the mower and belt on.
Was not running more than ten or 15 minutes with pto disengaged before I noticed a near new fiber button pretty much worn away to zero.
Without the drag of a belt to the mower or thrower, the grease and balls in the pto bearing are enough to turn the entire pto sheave.

Good info here. Mine was/is turning "engaged" at all times. Just installed a belt today and it seems the clutch is locked up. Looks like it's rebuild time. Hope I have an easier time removing it :bash:

They are not all that difficult to work on, just did the one in my 149. It was a first for me. You can see what I did, thread sort of jumps all over the place with other issues.

http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...t=31416&page=2

front PTO
 

Ditto on replacing the bearing. The consequences of a failure,after all your work can far outweigh the damage a seized bearing can do. DON'T ASK ! Good luck.

Thanks for the link Sam. I am about to read through all that. I have my set screws soaking in wd-40 at the moment had to come in and verify the size of the allen screws, but here is what I found so far on my 102: looks like the sheetmetal collar is twisted off the set screws :bash2: Also the throw out lever @ 10:00 in pic is on top of the thrust button.:bigeyes:



:biggrin2:SORRY FOR THE THREAD HI-JACK, Steved:biggrin2::beer2:

Gotta start my own thread for this 102 and it's "problems"

You'll need a better penetrant than WD-40, I suggest KROIL or a 50/50 mix of acetone and ATF. {auto transmission fluid} ( even PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench is better than WD-40 )

The correct allen wrench size is 1/8". There should be TWO set screws in each of the three holes. Make sure you get all the crud out of the set screws and use a good, sharp edge allen wrench. If the end is slightly rounded, they can be ground flat on a grinder. Do not get it hot or you will remove the temper.

Since it looks like your arm is already off, if you take a hammer and "bump" the center button on the PTO, you can move the PTO to where the slots in the PTO pulley basket line up with the PTO.

I still haven't posted my pics of the fully caged ball thrust bearing that I have on mine in place of the release button. That takes care of the problem of it spinning all the time. I will try to post that soon, maybe in another thread.

Got it off pretty easy, WD-40 worked for me. Started my own thread. Thanks.:beer2: