782 Command Repower
 

Saturday I am going to pick up a 675 hour CH18 out of a 21#?. It comes with the complete wiring harness which is a plus since my ignition switch is green on the back. I will rewire the tractor the way I want it. Which means as few wires as possible! :biggrin2:

Since I won't be using my 2135 driveshaft for the 2072 diesel repower, I will use it on this. I have both adapters that came with the shaft. The engine side will bolt right up. The trans side is tapered internally. So I am going to take it to the machine shop and have him mill the inside to 5/8" and machine some of the taper from the outside to drill the hole for the spiral pin.

Does any one know how different the engine mounting holes are? Will I need to drill new ones in the plate or make an adapter like the SEW Vanguard kit?

Travis,

Sam will be along and be able to fix you up. He is the driveshaft adapter king!:beer2:

I know he is!:beerchug: I have one of his adapters for the Super.

My question is actually about the holes on the bottom of the oil pan that attach the engine to the tractor. Just wondering how different they are from the KT/Mag to the CH?

Apologies if I was unclear. :beerchug:

Hello, i'm wondering the same thing about those holes. I just did this yesterday, took a command out of a 218?. Couldn't see model # cause somebody painted it green! I remember reading Sam's posts about useing those drive shafts for something. Guess i'll have to go post hunting. Mike:biggrin2:

http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=25516

Is this the thread you are referring to?

I can't answer your question today, but I'm getting ready to stab a CH in a 682...... I'll find out, but probably not before you need the info.

You can use an engine plate out of a Cyclops that had a Command in it and it is a bolt in , and you will need some spacers between the plate and engine.

There is an old post you can do a search for , i think it was 582 COMMAND SWAP. It shows where to drill new holes if you are using the Magnum engine plate , and other good info.

If you go with the Cyclops/Command engine plate , and you have to buy it from someone parting a Cyclops , see if they have the Command muffler and heat shields also. The muffler is compact and will clear the grille.

Yea thanks, that's one i read. I thought i saw a post where someone cut a 2000 shaft and slipped a solid 5/8 shaft inside and pinned it. Don't know what app that was for though. Mike; ps made sled out of that 2000 greenish fender pan going to pull firewood out of the woods right now.

Thanks Darrell! I did a search on "repower" but didn't see that one. I'll dig a little deeper.

I have the 1864 that I was looking at this morning. I agree the cyclops plate would be the way to go. I really hate to drill into that pretty red plate. :Sad: But it's got to be done!

Travis

Don't think you will be able to use the 2135 trans adapter, it should have a taper bore in it. They are made out of powdered metal and they are wicked hard to machine. I have an adapter to fit the 5/8" pump shaft with the spirol pin. As Darrell said. 1864 plate, spacers, muffler and drive shaft and it's all bolt in. Basically you'll end up with an 1864 with a metal hood. Call me if you have any questions, you have my number. Pics are of the adapter you'll need for the pump.

The post i was talking about i think is titled 582 Command Swap. There are other posts also , do a search for Command Swap.

Thanks, Darrell! I have found alot of very useful info.

I did pick up the motor on Saturday. Then did some yard work. Sunday I cleaned it up, fired it and checked compression(160 both sides). There was quite a few acorns and stinkbugs:angry: hiding behind the tins. There was a broken exhaust stud that I spent about 30 minutes trying to remove. Just couldn't get a grip:bash2: By then it was time to do some mowing:beerchug:

Took it to work today and using my handy Craftsman screw extractors, I had it out in 2 minutes! Ran a thread chaser into the head and stuck a nused one in. Next weekend it should be bolted in and ready to wire it up:biggrin2:

Looks like its going great!

Nice Command, Travis!

Dang how did I miss that one!! : - )

Looking good!

Randy you have enough Command's LOL

Thanks guys! :beerchug:

Sam, check your email.

Just did and sent you a better address to contact me.

Well I made some progress on the repower today. I set the motor and firewall in and checked the fit. The air filter is tight but it clears. I cut out the rear of the cover to allow for removal.

http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...8&postcount=16 I used this thread for locating the holes to mount the engine. Drilled the holes and bolted it in.

I installed the trans adapter from Sam Mac and got the measurement for the drive shaft length. Everything lines up square and straight. Got the shaft cut, now I just need to get it welded. The fan is a hair to close to the hydro filter. I will have to shim it forward. I was hoping the NAPA filter would have been a little shorter than the IH one :bigeyes: How long has that been on there!!

I tore into the 2000 wiring harness tonight and removed most of it. I hope to get it wired up tomorrow. I ordered a combo volt/oil pressure guage and I am going to use the CAT hour meter that was in my 2072.http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...A22EFNA0N49HYP

Looking good Travis!:beerchug:

cub
 

Hi, looking good. I saw one done before where a guy had to cut the rear of the air cover also, don't remember if it was a gear or hydro. Mike:beerchug:

Travis

If you need a spacer to fit behind the fan let me know. Did I mention that you should use Red Loc-Tite on the set screws on the adapter?

Thanks, Mike!! I looked at few threads but never saw it mentioned, the clip-on style filter cover would work better. :beerchug:

How thick are the spacers you have? I had already planned on the Loc-Tite after I am 100% sure it doesn't have to come back off.

Nice job, Travis!

Lookin good! :ThumbsUp:

Travis

I'd have to get one machined up for you. What I would probably do is just cut down one of the 2000 series outer rings so that the combined thickness is the same as a CV joint. That would put the fan in the proper location.

If it's not too much trouble or money let's go ahead and do that. Just let me know how much?

Thanks again Sam :beerchug:

I got the drive shaft welded today. Tonight I put it together for a test fit. It is a very tight fit. I really don't have any end play at all, maybe .010". I may see if the engine will slide forward a hair or sand the ends of the cups a little. It does spin nice and straight though! :beerchug:

I took a couple 10 second videos of it spinning. One of the front and one of the rear.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3FGOwm8TzKM
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a9O__WfpRtk

I took .020" off of each cup and cleaned the crud out of the cups and off of the barrels too. Now I have 3/32" difference and can actually move the shaft a little once installed. Looks and feels much better too me. I still need to shim the fan a hair more.

I also painted the draw bar and sleeve hitch and got some fresh trans fluid in it. Sure is easy to fill with that top cover off!

Looks good Travis!

Looks good Travis.

Looks good. If you have a shop that can cut down a cup I'll just send you one and measure how much you need to cut it down so that it will be the same thickness as a CV joint. Why did you put the bolts in from the back on the trans adapter? It's easier if you put them in the other way and put the nuts on the back.

Looks great, Travis!

Looking good Travis! :beerchug:

Thanks Guys!!! :beerchug:

Sam, I would appreciate that. I do have a shop that could cut it down.

As for the bolts, if you look at the first picture on post #28 you can see the shoulder on the nuts, I assume that they are there to center the fan, since they fit perfectly in the holes of the fan. I have never taken a 2000 series apart, so I don't know if that is how they are or not. Do you put washers on the bolts when putting them through from the front and just center it by hand as you tighten them down?

I use a fan reinforcement plate, it centers in the fan and clamps to fan better that the shoulder nuts. PM me your mailing address and I'll send you the cup. You'll need to cut it down to 3/8" thickness. If you want a plate they are $20.00. I will need to have it made up and if I'm going t do that I may as well have the cup cut down for you at the same time. Let me know what you want to do. Pic is the plate

I started working on the wiring harness today. I got the ignition switch to engine done and fired it up with my jump box for the first time in the tractor. I even rode it around:biggrin2:

I am going to have to pull the carb and clean it. I still need to order trunion springs. My lift bar and trunion repair plates from Xtreme should be here this week. I still need to do the wiring for the lights and guages plus make my battery cables. Plus Sam is making me a fan spacer and reinforcement plate. Slowly but surely!:beerchug:

Coming along great Travis!:beerchug:

Thanks for the update, Travis!

Ok, it's been a while! I have a LOT of grass to mow during the summer months, so it doesn't leave much time for anything else. So I had the 782 fired up Sunday to level up the ground in the woodshed. It's running pretty good but looks pretty pathetic without a front on it. It doesn't pull the box blade too well or turn with it raised either. I'm going to put some new shoes on this weekend. The rear Deestones showed up last week and my fronts showed up today. Got them mounted on the rims this morning. I'll get a pic of the rears when I get home.

Edit: added picture

:beerchug: