Manual PTO bearing replacement
 

I've looked here for a bit and couldn't find exactly what I was looking for. Can someone here please inform me as to how I'm supposed to go about correctly installing the PTO bearing onto the shaft. Having the snap ring on there I can't seem to install it. I understand it is supposed to be tight but holy moly. I've smacked it with a block of wood and hammer and it just won't go. I'd appreciate info as to how you guys have done this in the past.

thanks, Joe

Locking collar should slide onto shaft, the stepped edge facing you.
Bearing should go on fairly easy as well.
I just did mine and I might have had to thump it with hammer handle but no hammering it on.
Bearing only goes on until flush with end of shaft.

The snap ring is in the pto bearing bore.
I have never had to replace that though.

Yes. That is where my issue lies though I believe. The new bearing I am installing has a snap ring which is not expanding to allow bearing to be flush with the end of the shaft. I suppose I did not pay enough attention when I pulled the old one off but I believe it was flush as well with the snap ring over expanded versus snap ring bottoming out at end of shaft.

in the picture above it is bottomed out to the snap ring. I would say that it's leaving 1/16" to being flush. Old bearing and new bearing are identical and correct for the 127.

My 127 does not have any snap ring touching the shaft.
The only snap ring I have is inside the pto pulley assembly that will go over the bearing in your pic. It stops the pto pulley assembly from sliding too far onto that bearing.

Lets see a pic of the "snap ring". I don't see one in the pic. Are you talking about the locking collar?

I have had PTO bearings with the snap ring on them, too. I put the bearing on until it touches the snap ring, then installed the locking collar. No problems so far. (this is not the same snap ring as the one inside the PTO.)

Is it an internal snap ring on the OD of the bearing?

The snap ring is on the ID of the bearing sleeve. It's very thin and as such hard to see in the picture. I will take some more pictures of the bearing then tonight when I get back home. Thanks for the help so far

Why not just take the snap ring off..... :bigthink:
They are removable.

I had th same thing happen with the same type of bearing on my 127 when I did it. It actually was a bad thing after it was on for a while because I couldn't get it flush either no matter how hard I tried. I ended up just letting it eat exactly where it landed which was a very small amount out of being flush. It ended up being a mistake because the bearing actually ate grooves in the back side of the nf pto spring (3 fingered one). I swore to never use one again but wasn't exactly sure if they were all like that. By the sounds of some others here it doesn't sound like it.

I have never seen a bearing with a snap ring.

I also know of no Cub Cadet manual that has a bearing with a snap ring in it.

At the same time, even if the bearing stood out 1/16" from the end of the shaft, I don't understand why the bearing would rub on the back of the 3 finger spring, unless the linkage was adjusted too tight.

FWIW, I would most likely use the bearing with the ring removed.

I suppose I will see if I can get the snap ring off and go from there. The bearing came from Birkeys which is our local Case IH dealer. I wouldn't have thought there are different styles of bearings for this application but I didn't keep the package to call and verify. I just asked for a manual pto bearing and it was a stock item. Hopefully you all can see this "snap ring" I am referring to in the picture. Thanks

Was the bearing a genuine CC part or private label equivalent?

Maybe the bearing you have is some "multi-fit" version.
And the snap ring needs to be dug out and discarded for use here.

bearing is CC and that's exactly what I just finished doing. I pulled the snap ring off and now it is flush as intended. I appreciate all the help folks. :beerchug: