started on my 1650 teardown
 

So, I finally started the tear-down on my 1650. I guess buying that 42" blade yesterday got me going. Looks like I'm going to need new motor mounts, snubbers, and flex discs, for starters. The last I read the recommendation from the experience on the forum is to buy two sets of CC repro mounts ($20/set - OUCH!) and use them for the bottom mounts and use the automotive shock mounts for the top ones. That still the best option?

Has anyone found an automotive equivalent for the flex discs and snubbers?

Seems like many of these parts are just automotive parts with a CC parts number. The markup seems pretty high for some of these parts.

Ordered a couple hundred bucks worth of parts yesterday. Man, between the QL rubber motor mounts and the muffler I couldn't fit much else in the order, costwise. I went with the CC rubber mounts. Expensive now, but I'm sure I won't regret it. Also bought the new & improved QL muffler. The ad says it's quieter than the original.

I'll have to wait till the wife cools off a bit before I order more parts.

Yikes you spent a lot for a little! I hate how expensive these parts are. I used the automotive rubbers for top and bottom on my 1650. I just put 3 flat washers under the bottoms to get the right height. they work alright i guess. I have some parts kicking around here so if you need anything let me know, I just might have it

Tony,

You did the right thing, by buying the CC motor mounts. When I had my 1250, I got them and never regretted it. :beerchug:

The main things I still lack are the fender pan and seat. Mine are beyond saving. I have a line on a "for parts" 1450 that has what I need, if I can just get a day free to take a drive and go get them.

Now, if I can just get the weather to warm up a bit around here, I can get that thing cleaned up and painted!:bash2:

Got my parts order today. Everything I need to get the 1650 back up and running, except a seat and fender pan. Even got the paint. Now for the weather to warm up. Little help guys?

sounds like you got everything headed your way thenrie....what kind of paint did you go with?.....that seat i was telling you about is great...very good price....i can take some better pics of it if you like...well keep us posted and some pics

Went with the Cub Cadet rattle cans from CC Specialties P/N 759-3258. Pretty precious stuff. A lot cheaper to go with the quarts, but I only have the one Cub right now, and didn't want to have to store it. Besides, rattle cans are spray and toss. No reducers, no mixing, no clean up, etc.

My next parts order will include a seat. I already took a look at the site you mentioned. Great price. That's probably what I'll do. I can't hardly buy a seat cover for that price, and then it would be going over an old pan that I'd have to de-rust and paint.

What I'm going to try to do this weekend is finish the disassembly and clean the frame up. I will have to do the motor mount modification and also repair the front axle mount. The front socket for the pivot pin was torn out of the frame by the PO. I guess he wasn't paying attention and the pin had slipped forward, allowing the axle to rotate, ripping the front socket right out of the frame crossmember. Probably won't get all that done this weekend, but I'll get a start on it. What fun.:biggrin2.gif:

I'll take pics and see if I can get my computer to be nice and talk to my camera.

Just added some pics to the post.

Wish my shop was more presentable. Just haven't had time yet to build the workbenches and storage cabinets yet. Everything is still on the floor.

Finished the disassembly today. The frame doesn't look as bad as I thought it would, except for the crossmember. Next step is to get it all cleaned up and prepped for the repair and to the mod on the engine mount brackets. I'll post pics of the repair to the crossmember and the engine mount mod, once I get around to it.

looks like you have a great start thenrie......you have a nice garage,doesnt look bad to me....keep us posted with pics

Hey Thenrie and Dieseldog558, reading the posts I thought you guys were PMing about a specific seat for sale someplace. But then Thenrie, you said you looked at the site and would probably order from them. Can you guys give us the site address. Don't know if they have everything but I am in the market for a seat for an original and a 100.
Thanks, MikeC

The company was carter & gruenewald. Google them and you'll find it. You can see the seat we were talking about on the "winter project 1200" thread. Looks like a good seat for my 1650 to me, but I don't recall seeing the old metal seats.

Tony

I'm sure there is some level of intimidation to using automotive grade acrylics but once you get past that...it's a breeze.
Got the fender done today.

http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s...rm/fender1.jpg

http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s...rm/fender2.jpg

And you won't regret the finished product.

Scott

I have the gear (compressor, spraygun, etc.) I just didn't want to hassle with the mixing and cleanup right now. It's been so long since I used them that I would have to practically re-learn how to mix the paint, set up the gun, etc. Besides, my shop is a mess and I still have stuff in boxes, on the floor, tools not yet found, etc. I bought the house last summer and have not had a chance yet to get my shop really set up. For right now it will just be quicker and easier with the rattle-cans. I'll be better set up for my next project Cub.

Forgot to take my camera, but last night I got the itch, so I went to the workshop and made a patch for my front crossmember, drilled it with a 3/4" bit, then welded my new pivot pin socket to it. I should have practiced a bit with my welder first. It's been too long since I welded last and this was my first try with flux core. Made a pretty good bugger weld. A little grinding...good as new.

I cut out the damaged area on the crossmember, using my patch as a pattern, filed to fit snugly, then tacked the patch in place. I trial fitted the axle and all looks good. Then I called it good and quit for the evening. I'll practice a bit more with the welder before I bugger up the crossmember. Turns out I had my welder settings wrong. Shoulda reviewed the manual BEFORE I tried to weld.:bash2:

I'll get some pics this weekend.

Somebody had to work hard to rip/tear that axle out of the cross member huh?

Scott

Well, not really. Once I looked at it, I realized that once the rolled pin that retains the pivot pin falls out, you don't have anything to keep the pivot pin from eventually working its way forward or aft, until it slips out of the socket. In this case, it apparently worked its way forward and slipped out of the socket. Then, over time (apparently the owner never noticed the problem) the front axle rotated, and probably started cracking the front of the crossmember until it finally ripped all the way out, since the front socket was the only thing holding the axle in place. The tractor had been refurbed at some point in its life, but I'm betting the owner who left it to me was using it for a lawn mower and really didn't know much about machinery and maintenance.

The good part in this was that when I found the poor thing sitting in the woods (it was on the lot at a house I bought) I figured the engine was bad. When I found the front axle was bent back under the frame, I realized the tractor was parked not because of a bad engine or trans, but because of the front axle problem. Turned out the engine was fine. Haven't yet tried the trans.

Here are some pics of my repair. A little more grinding to clean up my "bugger welds" and take the excess off the repair patch and she'll be ready for paint.

Looking awesome. I tore mine down last night to get ready for paint.

murphycc: What brand and number of paint did you use. That looks incredible!

Well, six months later, and I finally got the frame primered. I bought a Harbor Freight 40# pressure media blaster to strip the paint and rust. Works like a charm, but goes through the media faster than I expected. I used 70 grit aluminum oxide and it does a great job removing paint and rust. Expensive, though. You will also see the repaired frame and the modified engine mount. I'm told my welds won't hold water, but they'll do for my Cub.

Just a couple pics. Still have a long way to go. Only lack a good fender pan and a seat to have all the parts together though. Hoping to get everything painted before it gets too cold again. Maybe I'll get it all put together this winter.:beerchug:

Looking good!! I bought the same media blaster to do mine. I started laying down the yellow today. i'm hoping to have mine all painted by next weekend.

My biggest problem is time. Too much to do, too little time. The blaster is great, but with the humidity here in VA I can't use it long. As soon as my compressor starts getting hot the condensation starts making water in the blaster tank, in spite of the water trap. I may try putting a better water trap on it.

Decided on a comfortable-looking seat from Northern Tool. $69.99 + shipping. I've read a couple posts that indicate it will fit and is very comfortable. We'll see when it gets here. For 1/2 the price of an OEM seat, I thought I'd give it a try. Ordered it this evening.

I think after all this I'm going to have to spring for a different seat. Any pics yet?

Tony,

Before you put a bigger water trap on your compressor, you should know that if it is attached right at the tank, it will never work properly. Water traps need to be at least 25' from the air receiver to allow the air to cool and condense the moisture. Attached is an abreviated version of a properly installed air piping system. Note, the the line with the water trap comes off the TOP of the mainline (called a gooseneck). The lighter air flows up and leaves the heavier moisture in the main line to be removed at the drain legs.

Try to keep use of hoses and hose length to a minimum. They are notorious for condensing water with no way to remove it, other than watch it spray out of whatever tool you have it attached to. A properly installed hard pipe line will remove 75% of the condensation in a compressed air system. The water traps can then remove most of the rest, about 95% moisture free.

You can always go the route of installing a refrigerated air dryer to get completely dry air, but it is usually outside of the budget for most home shops.

Here's a great resource http://www.binks.com/Resources/Liter...6/Default.aspx put abc in the search box, download the "ABC's of Spray Finishing-English"

http://www.mcmaster.com/#compressed-air-filters/=96eufz

years ago at work they used this style filter, to me the main advantage was that for replacement cartridges you use rolls of toilet paper. i can think of little else that would act as such a good filter and be so economical to replace. there is a high up front price for the cartridge holder but if you do a lot of painting and air tool use over the years it would pay for it self. listed under super ultra-fine submicron air filters

Thanks for the info and links, guys. I'm gonna change things around a bit. Back in AZ I didn't have to worry much about it. Here in VA it's a mess.

NealC: Will PVC or CPVC work for the hard lines, or should it be galv steel? How about copper? I have been planning to plumb my whole shop for air. Just haven't gotten around to it. I was planning to do it with PVC - cheap, simple, easy, cheap, requires only a few cheap tools I already have, and did I mention cheap?

I plumbed my fathers barn with PVC ten years ago, been holding 100psi ever since.

Tony,

Although PVC is capable of handling air and pressure, it is against OSHA rules to use it. PVC will break into pieces (very sharp pieces) if impacted. Said pieces then become projectiles from the air pressure. I cannot recommend it's use due to the potential for injury.

Steel "blackpipe" is a popular choice in most factories due to the low cost and OSHA approval. It is subject to rust on the interior which then contaminates your equipment. Using galvanized reduces the majority of the areas subject to rust. But, you can still get some at the threaded joints.

You also need some special tools to cut and thread steel to the correct lengths if you cannot get pre-threaded lengths that you need. It can also be a challenge to get elbows turned the direction you want them and not leak or cause you a hernia. You can always hire a plumber to install, they will have the tools, but you will have to make sure they install it properly as most just install it like water piping, and that causes moisture problems.

Aluminum air piping with push-to-connect or twist-to-connect installation has become very popular in the last few years. http://www.prevostusa.com/products.p...adfdce9005ab39 or http://www.ingersollrandproducts.com...px-am_en-33032 It can be a little pricey, but there are places that sell it at a reasonable price.

Copper too is a good choice, although the price keeps going up every year. Copper also takes a bit of skill because you have to "sweat" (solder) the connections together. It's a simple enough process, but you need patience.

The most important thing about installing air piping is keeping the restrictions to a minimum. You have to think of air like electricity. Air pressure is like voltage, air flow (cfm) is like amperage. You reduce either one from a bad piping job and you reduce the amount of total power (wattage) available for the job. Use the biggest dia. pipe that is practical (wire gauge) and try not to use a lot of elbows (bend the piping to a large radius) and quick disconnects (resistors).

Hope this helps you in you piping job.:)

i am all about cheap and saving money for other things but if it were mine i would not go the PVC route. PVC not safe if it warms and tends to get brittle over the years i feel. cheap would be to use normal air line designed for air pressure but you do lose volume over distance like stated previously. this could be over come with second balance tank but then you are adding more money and taking up more room

Has anybody tried PEX? That stuff is tough! I wonder about the moisture thing though. I think the problem with using regular air hose, even the poly stuff, is the fact that it allows the air in the hose to cool so rapidly that moisture condenses on the inside of the air hose. Am I right?

I have used PVC and CPVC a lot through the years for water. It gets brittle when it is exposed to the sun. CPVC is used in hot water applications, because PVC can get brittle from the heat over the years. For air that would not be an issue except right at the compressor. CPVC should be fine there, or running a few feet of steel or copper would fix that issue. The safety issue, however, should it ever be hit with a tool, or cracked by movement, is something I had not thought about. That is a real issue. I'm glad that was brought up. I won't go that route.

I am going to research using PEX a bit and see what I come up with. I already have the tools for that and it is fairly inexpensive in large rolls. Otherwise I guess I'll go with copper. Expensive, but I understand its use and I know how to plumb it.

Anything anybody knows about using PEX for air would be appreciated.:bigthink:

Tony,

The only major issue you will run into with PEX is the same you run into hose with. Since it is flexible, any "droops" in the line will be where the water collects. All piping, hard or flexible, will work like a condenser. (Ask around, I'm sure you have some gents in Virginia that know all about using copper as a condenser. We have quite a few here in North Carolina :biggrin2.gif:)

The reason for using the hard pipe is to allow a controlled slope to direct the condensed moisture to a drain leg. PEX could probably work, as long as it will handle the pressure. You would have to spend time with supporting it well enough to eliminate the "droops"

If running a air line equipped shop this is one instance that spend the extra money will save you money in the long run. PVC/ CPVC is a bomb waiting to go off, those that want to take the chance I'm not bashing you, but it's shrapnel, shards, needles when it explodes, and you can bet the quality of PVC has went down over the years as well.

Aluminum, or copper would be the best choice, as mentioned it is expensive, but once finished it's set for life. It's also not hard to change around if you would like to add, reroute etc, and unlike PVC it does not become brittle. Black iron rust horrible, and loads up tools, not only that it comes from the factory with gunk in the inside.

I'm facing the same exact upgrade as you, and I'm looking at aluminum with some drop rubber (they have some kind of high quality rubber that withstands extremely hot water) for small work stations etc. And table work stations will have a drop aluminum pipe right to it with quick connect.. and the option for the rubber lines. I have a fine air compressor ( ingersoll rand) and I'm ashamed to admit that I have rubber line run as of now.

On edit PEX is the word i was looking for, again it's not the best or near best for the main runners, but real handy for small work stations etc)

You guys convinced me. I'll go with copper. Being able to set it up to drain properly is a must here in VA. Until I get time to do it, though, I'm still on a 50' rubber air hose.

Got the hydro trans for my 1650 primered this evening. I'll try to remember to post a pic or two tomorrow. If the weather holds, I may get the rear end and frame painted on Monday.

Some pics of the trans, frame, and misc parts after my disastrous effort at using the CC paint. Didn't use the right reducer. I figure the paint job rates a 10 (from ten feet away it looks pretty good! :biggrin2.gif:).

I'm going to eventually have to sand and repaint it, but it won't be with CC paint. I'll use a good automotive paint from a dealer who can help me get the right reducers and some knowledge about spraying it.

Putting her back together
 

I decided to just go ahead and put my 1650 back together, in spite of the poor paint job. Figure I'll have more time in a couple years to do it right. Right now I need to get it back together and get it working. I have replaced everything that needed replacing and repaired what needed fixed. It's just the paint job that I'm not happy with.

The only parts I lack to finish it are a hood and a fender pan. My hood is salvageable, but I can get a good one cheap enough to make fixing mine not worth the effort. My fender pan was way beyond the point of no return. I have located a couple here locally, but the folks think they are gold-filled or something. Just gotta keep my eyes open.

better quietline muffler?
 

it was mentioned there is a new/better quietline muffler? whats this about