Wiring diagram and switch logic for LT2180
 

My LT2180 will not turn off the PTO clutch (stop the blades from turning) when I get off tractor. The seat switch is OK. It will almost not turn off when I turn off the switch either. It runs for about a minute then finally decides to stop. It is electrical problem so I could use a wiring diagram and the logic table for the PTO switch. Help appreciated. It kinda unsafe this way. :rolleyes:

Sorry no help here, but someone will come along with help.
Hope you get it fixed:beerchug:
Only thing I can think of is a possible connection problem or switch, don't know:bash2:

You sure it isn't a PTO bearing trying to seize? :bigthink:
If it has trouble stopping even with the switch, I'd lean more toward a bad bearing.

Just a thought could the pto need adjusting maybe? I dont know much about electric clutches but I know they can turn off when not adjusted didnt know if it could work the other way around

Sounds like the bearing is on the way out to me also. I like the looks of this replacement for the 917-3446 PTO that you have, plus it's a lot less expensive.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Cub-Cadet-PT...p2054897.l4276

Opps my bad, I did this too late last night and did not explain it well. I don't have trouble stopping the tractor. When I turn the key switch off the engine just keeps on running like nothing happened, then after a pause 5, 10, maybe 30 seconds it will go put-put-sputter then die. Yesterday while mowing I set the brake to get off the tractor (I didn't want the engine to stop). I forgot to disengage the PTO and after I got off I noticed the blades where still running. The engine should have stopped immediately as per safety interlock but it never did.

Alright, then that sounds more like two problems.

The motor not dying with the key sounds like the mag isn't getting grounded. It is probably closing the fuel shut off solenoid and running the carb out of fuel. Check the ignition switch, and your grounds.

Second problem with the blades sounds like a seat safety switch. Probably suck in the "operator in seat" position.

Great idea!

I checked the seat switch last night. Its Ok. I have since found a wiring diagram but I don't know if it is correct or not. It shows a REV switch and relay which I don't have or if I do it has never worked. I routinely cut in reverse (why would they not want me to??). I see the ground circuit to the Mag and will see if I can trace it out.

Wish I had the connection legend for the PTO switch. It would make trouble shooting a lot easier. Also possibly the correct wiring diagram since the REV cutout makes me wonder. :bigthink:

Ok I've done more troubleshooting. First I've enclosed a picture of what I'm pretty sure is the shutdown terminal to the Mag (magneto) that is used to stop the engine. Let me know if I am incorrect.

To test it I jumped it to ground and I get the same result as with the safety interlocks and turning off the ignition. The engine hesitates, skips, but will not stop. So it appears something is wrong with the magneto wiring. Any input on this? The engine runs fine so it would appear that the magneto works. There is a lot of "take apart" to get to this mag so let me know if you have other ideas.

I'm not familiar enough with that tractor model to be able to tell from that close up pic whether your looking in the right spot or not. From here, that does not look like the right place for a Mag kill. It just looks like a ground point to me. I know a lot of the time people with this problem find that after removing the engine and taking off the tins around the flywheel, you find that the mag kill wire is broken or disconnected. Seen it a million times myself. R Bedell is the man with all the diagrams. He will probably be on here early morning and may have one for you. I am almost 100% sure, the problem is in the mag kill circuit. All the safety functions work on that circuit. IIRC, it is a blue wire on that machine, but I don't know for sure. If Roland doesn't answer in the morning, one of us will find you a "for sure" diagram.

Yep that's the kill wire connection for a Vanguard. I had a couple do the same thing. The wire on the inside had fallen off on one and mice had eaten through the wire on the other. From the looks of that one I'd pull the engine out (not a big deal) remove the blower shroud and clean it up.

One little heads up, the drive shaft couplings can be a PITA to get back together. I put some grease in the coupler to stick the blue plastic barrels in place.

OK, great. Thanks for the help. Wish I could get a better picture. I'll try this evening.

OK, great. Thanks for the help. Here is a bigger picture that shows the whole engine if that helps. The picture I posted yesterday is of the upper left side of this picture.

Wow, Thanks. I just found your post. It sliped in on me. Looks like I have some real work ahead of me!:bash2: Really appreciate the input

Not all that hard to pull the engine on these. 10MM socket to remove the self tapping screws that hold the hood on. Two on each side they are in the red circles. Disconnect the wiring for the lights and the hood is off. Remove the bumper bolts red arrow, pull the bumper off. Next remove the 3 bolts the hold the muffler on, these can be a PITA get some Power blaster and soak them. Disconnect the wiring, fuel line, choke and throttle cables. Remove the bolts that hold the fire wall to the frame and the 2 support rods so that you can move the fire wall to the rear so that you can get at the drive shaft. Pull the 4 bolts that hold the engine to the frame. Hold the drive shaft while you slide the engine forward and it will come out of the coupling on the back of the engine. Don't lose the 8 little blue plastic drive barrels, they will probably fall out of the coupling as you slide the engine forward. Make sure that you don't pull the shaft forward or it will come out of the rear coupling. If that happens you get to take off the fender pan to get it back together. Ask me how I know. If you have any questions send me a PM with your phone # and I'll try to walk you through it. You should be able to download the service manual for your tractor here. http://manuals.mtdproducts.com/mtd/P...randCode=10051

Thanks again Sam, Really appreciate the input. It will be a month before I get to it though. My wife just got the Ok from the Dr. to travel this past Monday(she broke her knee cap in a fall)so we just left yesterday to our hideaway to finish up some work there then we will come back home. I will probably give you a holler then for some help, although your instructions are so through that I may not have to.

Again thanks a lot for the assistance. Now at least I know where the problem is and how to correct it. That in itself is a great relief:biggrin2:

http://www.ihcubcadet.com/diagrams/E...Schematics.pdf

Not sure if the 2180 is here I had this link in my shortcuts but didn't open it recently.

Lt2180 briggs and stratton magneto grounding
 

The system works like this
The double yellow wires provide a ground path for the mags through the ignition switch. The terminal you show is the insulated connection to the mag ground wire harness located behind the engine shrouding
The mag wire harness has diodes for each lead which if one is shorted will prevent engine shutdown like you are experiencing. If both short the engine will not start. The replacement diodes are 1N4007 you can buy them from radio shack. Pay attention to orientation when replacing ( the gray band is closest to the mags). You can buy a replacement harness for about $. 10.00.
When I replaced them I did the following. I removed the diodes from the internal harness and positioned them in the exterior wires. This way should they short I can replace them without the Hassle of removing the engine etc.

lt2180 magnetos
 

Oh the engine system I was talking about is a briggs and Stratton model 350447 1111-E1.