Cub 1050 engine snubber
 

My new to me Cub 1050 has some issues with engine mounting. I found where to get the 8 rubber Iso-mount type bushings, but need to find something for the discontinued part 722-3007 engine "snubber" piece for the very front of the engine cradle. Anyone have any ideas or where to get 2 of these? Parts tractors anyone?
I got this machine with a broken drive-shaft, and have since gotten a new one made with clutch and all the fixings. When I installed it, the engine and drive-shaft are not lined up exactly - seems to me the engine needs to be angled back some to have the clutch driver fingers engage the clutch correctly.

I think you may be able to use item # 7 in-place of 722-3007

Something about that engine mount is odd..... I really don't know of any reason why you couldn't use a cradle from a QL or a 1282. All the parts are still available for those. The 1050 was kind of an odd duck, but I think the older style cradle will work.

I'm not 100% sure without measuring, but I want to say the heights of the QL cradle's and the one on the 1050 are different heights (which if it's true, could probably be solved by shimming it). I know the one on the 1050 has 90° bends whereas the one on the QL is more angled between the frame and the motor, not sure if that'd make a difference either. Just my :TwoCents:

Same you are correct on this. When I got my 1050, I had to replace the mounts because they were too far gone and I did exactly what you suggested for the same reason, they snubbers aren't available anymore. :beerchug:

You guys are correct that the Quietline mount is different. I got a great call today that someone found me 2 new NOS ones! I hope they are correct! I'll keep you posted

I know the QL mount is different. BUT, the 1282 is basically the same tractor, and it still uses the old style mount. The frame part number is the same for the 1050 as the 1282. I can find no difference in the two tractors other than the motor mount. I don't see any reason why it couldn't be switched. :bigthink:

They might be different in the 1050 because its a gear drive. Just a thought!

I do t think it being gear drive is the only reason . At least I know my 1000,1200, and 1450 all use the same mounts. Maybe they changed up a few things for it in the later years. Maybe it was cheaper to make the newer style mou tslking. We will probably never know

I don't think they're different for a gear drive. If they were wouldn't the 2 rear bolts for the trans have to be tipped different. I have both mounts,never really compared, a 1282 with wore out iso holes and a 1050 tractor. I bought the 1050 with a destroyed clutch and stripped gears in trans. I put a cast trans in it, I do know the cast trans is longer than the alum one. Look at the 2 holes in the frame about an inch apart for the front hole. Mike

Just curious what was involved in putting a cast iron transmission in my 1050. Knowing that this is the weak link, would like to be prepared if necessary. When I receive my OEM mounts, I'll take a good look an post what I see as differences between my 1250 mounts. Would like to see an 1282 front snubber mount

The 1282 is the same as a 1250. Putting a cast rear in the 1050 is simple. Bolt it in. May have to shorten the driveshaft some.

Wanted to post that I did get my 8 motor mounts in the mail today. Can't wait to put them in and see how the engine sits. Hopefully it will be at the same angle as the driveshaft. Had to order the front snubbers from a different place since absolutely nobody could find them. What is the proper torque spec for the motor mounts?:bigthink:

Still waiting on the front engine snubber grommets to come in. Yesterday I did a ton ow work on the 1050 with some promising progress. Since I bought this tractor broken, I have no experience with the condition on anything.
When I picked it up, there was a parts pail with the clutch, driveshaft, pin driver, etc in it and a pile of bolts. It is like putting an erector set together with no instruction manual. Also it is my first gear drive to work on!
The motor is securely in place with the new motor mounts, the complete clutch/driveshaft is completely installed and ready to go- I think. The problem I am having after installing all the stuff is that the clutch seems to slip. Is this normal for a new clutch and pressure plate etc? It did get better after a little use and adjusting the nut on the rod to its fully out position. I am completely at the end of the rod with only half of the nut screwed on the adjusting rod. It almost seems that the rod is too short. When I tighten the nut it gets less holding power on the clutch like it is pressing back the spring on the driveshaft. Has anyone had this problem? Seems to work well with the nut almost off the rod. Is there a longer rod available? Any suggestions?
Overall, I am happy with the 1050. Just got lucky that the rest of the tractor is good. The Kohler runs good with no noises.