Kohler KT17 No Start: Bad Coil?
 

682 Hydro with KT17 Lhead twin horz. shaft

New points, condensor, getting 12v when key is on when using ohmmeter on coil, voltage drops to 9.30v when cranking when using ohmmeter on coil, points open/close when cranking and points gapped to .020. Just wanna know if Im missing anything to check before dumping $130 in coil assembly?

How about getting that Battery checked. 9.3V seems low to me.

The battery isnt any good but I had 950amp jump box on it when I had it cranking. Thought about buying new battery and new battery cables. The positive cable looks like it caught fire by a PO owner.

Looks like you need a new battery.
BTDT

Then why wouldnt it start with the 950amp jump box? What size battery do I use? I thought about using one of Duralast Gold batteries that 425 amp. Thats what I used on the Briggs Lhead twins.

How about a new battery and Cable.

I had a 782 that was (and still is even after professional tuning) a real bear to start if the battery voltage drops even a slight bit. As long as it has a strong charged battery it lights right off.

Pull both your plugs out then push them back into the plug wires and lay them down on the eng. then crank it over and check for spark at the plugs. also a good time to check compression.

Spark plugs are new. Getting 90-100psi on each cylinder. Going back to edit my first post.

You HAVE to have a minimum of 10.5V at the Ignition Coil for it to fire correctly.

Ok, Ill try new battery and battery cables. I'll report back if it works now or still having no start issues.

It won't hurt to replace the cables with a larger size and run a ground straight from the battery to the engine block, ask me how I know.

Ok, Right now the ground is under seat and bolts to frame next to battery. All I have is 4 or 6 gauge battery cable.

Run the largest stuff you have. Crappy grounds are one of the most common issues with Cubs. Look through some of the other hard to start threads that have been posted this year. When I do one I use welding cable and I solder the ends on. You can pick it up at Tractor Supply.

Welding cable is good stuff. If you're unskilled like me, and can't solder, you can pick up a 1 gauge or larger battery cable at an auto supply with the ends already on. Just give them the length you would like.

I have a 782/KT17 with a no-start (but used to) so I'm following this thread closely. I'm starting with a better ground.

Soldering cables is easy, you cut small pieces of solder off inside the lug and fill every gap with them, heat the lug with a torch until solder boils, stick the stripped cable into the boiling solder and let it cool for a minute while holding it. Then heat shrink and done, works every time. Always good to wear big gloves and do it out in front of you, in case some solder comes out when you put cable in.

Thanks for info on soidering battery cables together. I have the HF hydaulic battery cable crimper. It can do 0-14 gauge battery cable.

Crimp is OK but solder is better. I just put the terminal end in the vise, heat it with a propane torch, melt rosin core solder into it the slip the cable into the molten solder, heat it a little while longer to get the solder into the cable strands then let it cool. Heat shrink and your done.