CC 1772 Diesel Driveshaft Brass Bushing
 

New-to-me tractor of this type.....After changing the alternator belt, I noticed there was a brass (or bronze) bushing that almost fell out while trying to re-install the driveshaft to the engine. Without much luck from a Cub Cadet dealer or the internet parts diagrams; I decided to remove the entire driveshaft to get a closer look and so I could take some pictures to hopefully get some help on the forum. In these pictures you can see the worn out bushing and where it fits. It fits inside that round rubber type disk.....that is where it fell out of at least. I am thinking that the bushing is part of that rubber disk housing as 1 unit, but I am not sure about that. What do you all think? Also, notice the fins on the plastic fan; they are buggered up a little....will that be ok to leave as-is? I need to get the parts ordered so I can get the 1772 back up and running.

Thanks for any input you can give

Welcome to OCC! Good luck with your 1772!

I know. Trying to upload them through my phone because my internet browser would not even let me make a post. I can email them to someone of that will help

read thru this whole thread. this should give you some in site on the diesel drive shafts that we all despise.

http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=25516

Oh wow.....just read through all of that. It really discourages and intimidates me though because I know nothing about doing repairs that intensive. I was just trying to re-install the driveshaft when I noticed that the bushing was worn out. It would be really really nice to do that conversion though. I'm going to upload pics of my driveshaft when I get home....hopefully if it'll work.

pictures.....

While the upgrade may be an improvement I think that bushing is available. As long as your driveshaft end is fine it will take about 1 minute to put a replacement bushing into the steel plate. From your photos it seems that part of the bushing is still in the steel plate. I had to replace one on a 1512 which uses the same part number for the plate (903-1005a). I basically took the part into the local cub cadet dealer and they handed me a replacement bushing.

You might want to look into part number 941-3004 (SELF-ALIGNING BALL BUSHING). Not sure if it will fit but would be worth looking into. I think the bushing was used on many Cubs so a local dealer may have one in-stock.

Good Luck

Sorry forgot to mention the bushing is actually in the metal plate not the rubber disks. I copied your picture and put a red arrow onto what I think is part of the old bushing. I think if you look closely at it and the picture of the bushing I put up you will see what I mean.

I would look closely at your end of the driveshaft. It looks worn from your photo but it is tough to tell.

Welcome to OCC!:beerchug:

I second a 2k or CV conversion. If you want to stay stock, be prepared to shell out $200+, and I would ditch the disconnect clutch. Replace anything that shows wear, or you'll wish you had. The 2k conversion will cost as much, but makes more sense...it is truly an upgrade. As for the bushing, the part number is 941-3004, and there are two of them, one on each end.

http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/a...1&d=1392779894

Welcome AL Farmall. I agree that the upgraded shaft is nice but going back stock isn't so bad either. As others have said, don't use the disconnect clutch, your like me in the warm south and we don't have to move snow like the yankee's do.:biggrin2: The ball/bushing that wore out is replaceable on both ends and this company makes and sells them.http://www.triangleoshkosh.com/eng/p.../ball-bushings You will need part#HE1410P and the last time I purchased them they were less than $5 each but they have a minimum order. If your lucky that may be all you need.
If your going back original you need to replace all 4 rag joints at about $15 each. The original drive shaft is 3/4 OD and the ends are turned down to 5/8 OD and it is probably worn on the ends and needs replaced. If your not using the clutch you don't need a 3/4 shaft so get you a piece of 5/8 OD shaft material. You will need two new couplings that go on the end of the shaft because one is 3/4 OD and the other end used the clutch. The part number on those are 748-3001 and they are around $20 each. That is from a regular GT like a 1811 that uses a 5/8 shaft. These usually don't wear and maybe you can get 2 used ones. The last part needed will be the expensive splined rear coupler. I think the last one I picked up was $100. You may be able to have someone weld one up that would work from one of these.http://www.surpluscenter.com/Power-T...027-1-1495.axd that is what I will do in the future.

But, when reinstalling the newer style shaft you will thank your lucky stars yu did it. It is so easy compared to the rag joint shaft, dont know about you but I had one heck of a time getting mine out.

Dont let the new shaft scare you off, if your mechanicly inclined enough to get the only one out your good enough to rework the new one. for us shadetree mechanics than dont have Sams fancy lathe ;) you can use a cufoff wheel and grinder. Then do your measuring, make a test fit and mark where your weld will be and give about 1/8" of slack as Sam suggested. Then just have someone do a siimple weld on the coupling.

Whala! you have a new driveshaft that is now worry free for years to come.

Guys

The jury is still out as to how well the 2000 series stuff is going to last. We have had 2 of them fail so far. They were replaced with the CV style shafts from a Cub 1863. So far those are doing just fine. I'm convinced that the rubber engine mounts allow the engine to move enough that the 2000 series couplings slip out and party is over. I can furnish you with the adapters for the engine and the pump but you will need to dig up the shaft and fan yourself. Try the sponsors at the top of the page. The 1863 drive line is still available from Cub but you may need to take out a second mortgage to buy it.

^^^^ very good point. with the conversion, being able to remove the drive shaft in under 10 minutes is very helpful. if you ever need to do the alternator, water pump, belt. it saves lots of time and headaches. i personally recommend the CV style shaft for the diesels, i had the 2k style and it broke. the diesels have rubber motor mounts and the engine is able to move some. any solid mounted motor the 2k will work just fine.

Just rebuilt the driveshaft on my 1772 last fall. Went with the stock setup. Nothing wrong with the stock setup IMHO. You just have to keep an eye on the rag joints and bolts. A lot of times when we pick up these smokers, they are still on their original driveshaft assembly with a 1000 hours on them with little to no maintenance. On the other end of the spectrum, I've seen them on their second or third driveshaft with 500 hours. Not saying that someday I won't update one or two of mine with Sam's setup. His adapter/driveshaft assembly is a great setup and should have been factory.

Hmm, maybe I will move forward with my initial idea of a CV boot on the front coupler as some additional insurance. I will measure the OD's tonight and see what I can find. Or like I had on my my race car and simply solid mount one side of the engine to eliminate any engine twist.

Andy

I just sent you an e-mail

The tractor is going to be a back up lawnmower (we have a Scag Zero), or might be ending up using it full time with it. Who knows....I might end up selling it (since I only paid $500 for it and 2 other IH Cub Cadets).

I do like the looks and the idea of the upgrade Sam has come up with (the one appropriate for the 1772 whichever that one is). But I am lost when reading about building one and trying to tackle that myself. Also, on rebuilding the original one....I'm sure that would be no problem for me, but would need some guidance on it if that is what i decided to do.

I reckon if there was someone local to me that could help me, or if Mr. Sam would make the shaft for me i would be able to do the conversion...............:bigthink:.........I mean, I'm sure it would cost about the same as fixing the original one anyways.

It appeared to me that the cooling fan on the driveshaft may need to be replaced too. Not real expensive likely less than $25. That fan is very necessary to keep the tranny cool.

Welcome to the forum from Arkansas.

I would like to get the bushings from "Triangle Oshkosh" but since there is a minimum order it doesn't look like I can. Is there anyone out there that would be willing to sell me a couple? I just figured it would be a better savings instead of getting them through Cub Cadet. Thanks for the help guys.

Anybody???

Go to the for sale section, page 2 about half way down there are some there.

oh....ok. Heck I didn't realize there was such a section. Thanks so much. Since the post I've found some on eBay also.

Well.......I got it!!! Ordered the 2 bushings and the 4 flex rag joints and put it all back together. The shaft seemed to look good so I replaced that front bushing that was worn and the rear bushing was good and solid and had no visible wear on it. It looked to be harder to remove so I decided it should be fine. I had a bit of a time getting a couple of the bolts started with the new flex rag joints, and had a heck of a time getting the driveshaft flange bolts started back on (took 2 1/2 hours), but I got it all back installed and did it without pulling the engine loose!! I also replaced a bolt and a nut that held the rag joints due to the old ones being warped and distorted. I also put a little wheel bearing grease on the shaft where it fits into the bushing.

Thank you all so much for helping me get this driveline back in order! Now I can move on to other areas that need attention like the fan belt, maybe a newer gear reduction starter, and I might check out the glow plugs.

I would like to mention that since I didn't use one of the bushings, I'd be interested in selling it to anyone who might need it. A part like that would just find its way in a bucket somewhere and get forgotten about. I'll post it in the classifieds.

Does anyone know the min order from http://www.triangleoshkosh.com/eng

For those bronze bushing.

ThAnks