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-   -   Changing crank oil seal on 86 CUB (lots of pictures) (https://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/showthread.php?t=30046)

Sugarmaker 02-15-2014 09:24 PM

Changing crank oil seal on 86 CUB (lots of pictures)
 
As I read some post on OCC today I realized I need to get my butt in gear and dig into this front oil seal change out on the new 86. I was dreading this as it was really dirty and oily. But I had the seal so here is the play by play.

****Word of warning: Usually these do not come apart this easy!*****

The seal had actually come out of the engine and oil had been spewing forth for some time. Hoping that the engine is OK. It started and I pulled it in the more warm than outside garage.
http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/e...6/DSC01106.jpg

Here is where the action starts:
Pull the grill and hood, four bolts. I cut the wire to the lights and will splice that back when the grill and hood go back on.
http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/e...6/DSC01108.jpg

First causality, took the adjusting bolt out of the S/G , lifted the arm coming from the block and the bolt in the pivot point snapped off flush with the block!
http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/e...6/DSC01109.jpg

Dip stick needed attention next as the handle was passing through the cap. Some well placed taps with a punch and this was now back to where it wont push through the cap.
http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/e...6/DSC01110.jpg

Fan belt has seen better days
http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/e...6/DSC01111.jpg

starting to remove grill and hood.
http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/e...6/DSC01112.jpg

http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/e...6/DSC01114.jpg

blade and hood are going to have to be removed. Cut the light wire.
http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/e...6/DSC01115.jpg

Quick picture to make sure I get the blade back on in the correct location. Haven't had a wide frame before.
http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/e...6/DSC01117.jpg

continued in next posts

Sugarmaker 02-15-2014 09:27 PM

Continued:

http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/e...6/DSC01118.jpg

http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/e...6/DSC01119.jpg

Power take off has small set screws at three locations with two screws at each location.
http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/e...6/DSC01120.jpg

PTO clutch is removed.
http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/e...6/DSC01121.jpg

http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/e...6/DSC01122.jpg

Bearing for the PTO has a crack and piece missing. it will have to be replaced.
http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/e...6/DSC01123.jpg

http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/e...6/DSC01124.jpg

The lock ring has one set screw. Take it all the way out.
http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/e...6/DSC01125.jpg

With a punch find the hole in the ring and tap clock wise when standing in front of the tractor. This ring is eccentric and will loosen to allow the bearing to be removed.
http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/e...6/DSC01127.jpg

A small two jaw puller will fit in the space to pull the bearing after the lock collar is loose.
http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/e...6/DSC01128.jpg

continued in next post.

Sugarmaker 02-15-2014 09:29 PM

continued:
Locking collar and bearing.
http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/e...6/DSC01129.jpg

Next is the set screws for the pulley. There is a set screw over the square key and another on the shaft.
http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/e...6/DSC01130.jpg

http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/e...6/DSC01131.jpg

With the set screws removed I gently punch the key through the pulley. On some engines you may not have enough room to do this?
http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/e...6/DSC01132.jpg

http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/e...6/DSC01133.jpg

A very gently taps and the pulley slides off the shaft. I did use some emery paper to clean the shaft.
http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/e...6/DSC01135.jpg

Ok we are almost ready for the seal.
http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/e...6/DSC01136.jpg

http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/e...6/DSC01137.jpg

http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/e...6/DSC01138.jpg

The seal was back in the engine for some reason? Turned the engine over and the air pressure pushed it back out and I used a knife to get it out.
http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/e...6/DSC01140.jpg

Continued in next post.

Sugarmaker 02-15-2014 09:30 PM

Continued:
New seal had grease on the I.D. and is placed in the engine opening after cleaning out the engine and shaft.
http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/e...6/DSC01141.jpg

Speaking of cleaning this was really bad and I did do some clean up. after the seal was in place. I was soaking the grease with purple power as I worked on the seal installation.

I used a heavy metal ring and light hammer to tap the seal flush with the outside of the block.
http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/e...6/DSC01143.jpg

Pulled the air cleaner and the filter was junk.
http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/e...6/DSC01144.jpg

some cleaning of the engine compartment.
http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/e...6/DSC01145.jpg

http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/e...6/DSC01146.jpg

Wiped down most of the tractor to remove accumulated grease.No its not going to get restored just repaired and used.
http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/e...6/DSC01147.jpg

Time to get that broken bolt out of the block. at the pivot point for the S/G bracket. Center punched the broken part. Drilled small hole into the bolt. Good news the screw moved right in to the block. Got a small easy out in the hole and the broken part came right out. This entire engine area was wel lubricated!
http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/e...6/DSC01148.jpg

Enough cleaning , cant have it look too good. Starting to reassemble parts.
http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/e...6/DSC01149.jpg

New belt, filter and grade 5 bolt
http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/e...6/DSC01150.jpg

Pulley, key and set screws in place. belt and SG tightened.
http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/e...6/DSC01152.jpg

Continued in next post.

Sugarmaker 02-15-2014 09:33 PM

This should be it:)

The steering wheel was loose right below the plastic wheel. I found that the plastic spacer had move up out of the sterring shaft housing. I was able to get this back down into the housing and it tightened up the steering wheel considerably.
http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/e...6/DSC01153.jpg

Changed the engine oil, added some fresh gas, and some sea foam to the tank, and fired it up.
http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/e...6/DSC01154.jpg

I will get a new bearing for the PTO next week and then re assemble the PTO and the grill. This tractor drives like it has power steering! I also like the long throw of the shifter. Going to see If I can find a good used seat to replace the crusty one too.

No oil leaks, at least from that end of the tractor now, and its clean enough I could work with it again.

Hope this helps someone that has not taken one of these apart before.

Regards,
Chris

Alvy 02-15-2014 09:45 PM

Very informative step by step Chris. I always like as well I'm sure others do, this type of post because it helps people see exactly how to do something close up.

I'm wondering why your old seal had so much movement? I'm assuming the new one is ok and tighter? Btw, what length belt did you get?

_DX3_ 02-15-2014 09:49 PM

Awesome post. It cleaned up nicely. :beerchug: Glad the PTO basket and pulley came off so easy. I always end up drilling two holes 180 degrees from each other thru the pulley and basket to use a 2 point puller to get it off with. I never thought about driving the key back towards the engine.

ACecil 02-15-2014 09:51 PM

You've been busy, Chris! Thanks for the pics.

darkminion_17 02-15-2014 10:10 PM

Good work Chris.
You got lucky on the pto pulley and the broken off bolt.
Now about that pto rod...

EricR 02-15-2014 10:11 PM

Nice work there Mr Chris, how easy did the seal slide into the block? The reason I ask is all the engine guys around here put a little sealer around the out side edge to help hold it to the block! That's what we did when we replaced the seals on dad's twin 20 horse.

JLM78 02-15-2014 10:23 PM

good to go

TheSaturnV 02-15-2014 11:58 PM

Nice write up Chris. I wish I'd had that keyway trick up my sleeve when I pulled my PTO.

zippy1 02-16-2014 12:42 AM

Retirement keeping you busy Chris?:biggrin2:
Great play by play, you have always had a knack for picture taking.
I'm thinking we need to start calling you Mr. Clean:bigthink: great improvement on the engine area.:beerchug:

PaulS 02-16-2014 06:42 AM

Great post and a sweet looking repair. What else would we expect from a sugarmaker. As I recall the front seal on my command 20 was leaking and was loose in the hole enough to move in and out too. The new one fit kind of tight so I suspect when they wear down or wear out they not only get loose around the shaft but also loose on the outside too enough to allow it to move around. Thanks for the step by step illustrations. As most folks were not there when it was assembled things as simple as this can get really frustrating.

cubcadet 02-16-2014 06:45 AM

Good work Chris, that 86 cleaned up very well, that pto bolt looked like a pita but it wasn't.:beer2:

Cubcrazy 02-16-2014 07:38 AM

Looking good Chris! Nice pics and writeup!:beerchug:

cubfan 02-16-2014 09:34 AM

Great step by step info and such personal restraint.I just can't tear into one like that and stop myself from doing at least a refurb.I need to learn to stop myself (lol).Thanks for all of the pic.:beerchug:

Sugarmaker 02-16-2014 09:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by darkminion_17 (Post 243716)
Good work Chris.
You got lucky on the pto pulley and the broken off bolt.
Now about that pto rod...

Lew,
What about the PTO rod? Did I miss something?
Regards,
Chris

Sugarmaker 02-16-2014 09:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by EricR (Post 243717)
Nice work there Mr Chris, how easy did the seal slide into the block? The reason I ask is all the engine guys around here put a little sealer around the out side edge to help hold it to the block! That's what we did when we replaced the seals on dad's twin 20 horse.

Eric,
The seal needed to be tapped in. Felt like a good fit? I did not think about any type of locking adhesive on the outside. That is a good suggestion. Well time will tell. I am not pulling it at this time:)
Regards,
Chris

Sugarmaker 02-16-2014 09:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Alvy (Post 243700)
Very informative step by step Chris. I always like as well I'm sure others do, this type of post because it helps people see exactly how to do something close up.

I'm wondering why your old seal had so much movement? I'm assuming the new one is ok and tighter? Btw, what length belt did you get?

Alvy,
The old seal came completely out of the block and was rattling around on the crank shaft. Lots of oil as you can see! Someone thought the seal came out due to overheating, like mouse nest in shroud? I did not take the fan shroud off but blew air into and around the cooling head fins. Looked clean and open. This tractor had set for a long time with a stuck clutch. When we brought it home it went to plowing a lot of snow right away. I think the seal just dried out over years and was pushed out when the engine got worked hard?

Belt size? Not sure Napa matched the numbers on the old belt and it fit. The number is in one of the pictures. Length usually is part of the number code.
Regards,
Chris

Sugarmaker 02-16-2014 09:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by _DX3_ (Post 243703)
Awesome post. It cleaned up nicely. :beerchug: Glad the PTO basket and pulley came off so easy. I always end up drilling two holes 180 degrees from each other thru the pulley and basket to use a 2 point puller to get it off with. I never thought about driving the key back towards the engine.


DWayne,
I was real lucky on how this basket came off. I like your idea to pull the basket. Do you have any pictures. I might need that trick sometime too. If the engine was out I think you could support the basket and drive the crank out with a air hammer too.
Regards,
Chris

Sugarmaker 02-16-2014 10:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cubfan (Post 243775)
Great step by step info and such personal restraint.I just can't tear into one like that and stop myself from doing at least a refurb.I need to learn to stop myself (lol).Thanks for all of the pic.:beerchug:

Cubfan,
Thanks!
Not sure about the restraint. But after meeting with a lot of other cub folks and working on some big tractors too, and getting a little older. I seem to be content with getting them working and then enjoying them in their work clothes. This 86 is going to be nice to have around.
I have a big tractor (AC WD) setting in the garage that has been apart for a year and a half. It takes a long time or lots of energy to restore them. The 147R and equipment that I worked on two years ago is still fresh in my mind. It would have been real easy to pull the engine in this 86. Then I would have had a bigger project! And more money required. This was about $30 and some time.
I was glad things went that well. All the oil and protective layers of grease helped!
Regards,
Chris

Sugarmaker 02-16-2014 10:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by zippy1 (Post 243745)
Retirement keeping you busy Chris?:biggrin2:
Great play by play, you have always had a knack for picture taking.
I'm thinking we need to start calling you Mr. Clean:bigthink: great improvement on the engine area.:beerchug:


Todd,
I have learned from the master! Mr. ZIPPY1! Your restoration work has inspired many of us to get out there and dig in to save another Cub!

I should get another one of those nice seats you recommended for this 86!
By the way this seat pan is on the opposite way from a narrow frame:)

Loving the retirement thing. I was telling Cheryl I don't miss driving in to Erie each weekday. Gives me another hour a day to be on the computer, or enjoying hobbies, or spending time with the grand daughters. But we (you and I) don't talk as much, since I used that 1/2 hour of drive time to chat on the phone with you once in a while.

This 86 still needs some love and attention but can now function again.
Regards,
Chris

mortten 02-16-2014 10:36 AM

That belt is 3/8" wide by 32 5/8" long. I always use some #2 Permatex on the outside of replacement seals.

Sugarmaker 02-16-2014 11:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mortten (Post 243795)
That belt is 3/8" wide by 32 5/8" long. I always use some #2 Permatex on the outside of replacement seals.

mortten,
Well I missed the note on the premtex. Hope it holds as installed dry:) Great suggestion!
Regards,
Chris

Jeff in Pa 02-16-2014 11:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sugarmaker (Post 243782)
DWayne,
I was real lucky on how this basket came off. I like your idea to pull the basket. Do you have any pictures. I might need that trick sometime too. If the engine was out I think you could support the basket and drive the crank out with a air hammer too.
Regards,
Chris

I'll put my pictures up Click all pics for large view

One home made flywheel puller
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v7...h_DCP_4979.jpg

Using longer bolts and two 1/2" sockets with longer bolts makes a great PTO bearing puller
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v7...DCP_4967-1.jpg

Drill and tap 5/16"-18NC into the pulley and pull it off
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v7...h_DCP_5319.jpg

Jeff

drglinski 02-16-2014 11:37 AM

Thanks for taking the time to upload the pictures and write up the post. Looks a lot better.

red56turbo 02-16-2014 11:59 AM

Chris,
Super nice, original 86 you have there. Even the original muffler. Thanks for the pics and nice writeup. Just keep an eye on the seal. I, too like to put some sealer on the new seals when I put them in. If yours went in fairly snug, you should be good to go. Might wanna pull the breather and check/clean it as needed. Sometimes they plug and pressure will build up popping the seals out. Not saying that happened in your case, but an easy check.

Sugarmaker 02-16-2014 08:15 PM

Jeff, and Josh,
Great ideas on the pulling of the bearing and the basket. And I will take off the breather and clean it.
Will keep a eye on the seal.
Thanks.
Regards,
Chris

_DX3_ 02-16-2014 08:39 PM

2 Attachment(s)
Here is a pic of the 128 starter pulley and pto basket I had to drill to pull.
Also the type of puller I used.

Attachment 47379

Attachment 47380

zippy1 02-17-2014 12:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sugarmaker (Post 243787)
Todd,
I have learned from the master! Mr. ZIPPY1! Your restoration work has inspired many of us to get out there and dig in to save another Cub!

I should get another one of those nice seats you recommended for this 86!
By the way this seat pan is on the opposite way from a narrow frame:)

Loving the retirement thing. I was telling Cheryl I don't miss driving in to Erie each weekday. Gives me another hour a day to be on the computer, or enjoying hobbies, or spending time with the grand daughters. But we (you and I) don't talk as much, since I used that 1/2 hour of drive time to chat on the phone with you once in a while.

This 86 still needs some love and attention but can now function again.
Regards,
Chris

You are to kind Chris, and give me to much credit. I just do the best I can with what I've got:biggrin2:
I was worried you would get bored with the retirement thing, but I'm thinking you'll keep busy fixing the little and big tractors. Don't forget, there's a few other ones out back!:beerchug:

Sugarmaker 02-17-2014 07:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by _DX3_ (Post 243923)
Here is a pic of the 128 starter pulley and pto basket I had to drill to pull.
Also the type of puller I used.

Attachment 47379

Attachment 47380


DWayne,
Now that i see your method it looks like a piece of cake to 'pull' one of these baskets. I bent the heck out of one trying to get it off. These should have came with pulling holes in them!

Todd,
Yea I keep walking past that 125 that I have stole parts off of and think it would make a nice mower.
I did bring the 106 home a couple weeks ago. It was the first Cub I bought in about 84. Eric said it started with out being jumped. He had not started it in months.

I found that the 86 needs clutch work. It doesn't fully disengage when pedal is depressed. Must need a spring that is bad? Pretty much normal wear and tear after years of work.

I did get a price on the bearing and collar for the 86's PTO, in stock at local Cub Cadet dealer for $33.

Regards,
Chris

Whizdbiz2 02-18-2014 09:23 AM

Hey, Chris. Thanks for posting that series of pics. Once I get my 86 running I might have to to some PTO work to do, but I hope not. No idea what condition that or the clutch in in. Mine sat for a decade or more needing the exhaust valve replaced. I understand they did use it to mow before deciding to park it and have a friend work on it, work he didn't finish.

Sugarmaker 02-18-2014 08:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Whizdbiz2 (Post 244190)
Hey, Chris. Thanks for posting that series of pics. Once I get my 86 running I might have to to some PTO work to do, but I hope not. No idea what condition that or the clutch in in. Mine sat for a decade or more needing the exhaust valve replaced. I understand they did use it to mow before deciding to park it and have a friend work on it, work he didn't finish.

Your welcome, hope this helps. Engine work (rebuild) should be able to be completed on one of these for under $300. And it will be good for another 30 years. Post some pictures of your 86, would love to see it.
Regards,
Chris

Whizdbiz2 02-20-2014 02:11 PM

Chris, here's mine from an earlier post.

http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...796#post206796

Instead of being in my MIL's barn collecting dust and bird poop, it's in my barn collecting dust, not so much bird poop (the barn cat keeps that under control).

Bill

Sugarmaker 02-22-2014 02:12 PM

Bill,
The Cub looks like a keeper. I see you have some FORD's also.
Regards,
Chris

Whizdbiz2 03-28-2014 09:48 AM

Chris, yes, a couple of workers. The 9N is pretty much dedicated to pulling a manure spreader, have to empty it once or twice a week depending on how much the critters are inside. The 8N is the "do everything else" tractor... mowing and snow plowing mostly. I've had the 9N for about 22 yrs. now and it's getting tired but still starts and does the jobs I need. The other I got at a nearby sale about 4 yrs. ago, had the MIL take me over afterwards and she followed me home, not far but took about an hour.


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