Starting when cold
 

Its about 6 degrees out now. The 1450 started (with some effort). The 1650 dont like it. It turns slowly, and eventually runs the battery down. Even in warmer weather its a slow turner but fires easily without choke even.

Any good tricks for starting these engines when it cold out? I think the temps are headed lower. May just wait it out because its going to be warmer soon, but maybe there are some things I could do to help them be more cold starting friendly??

Not sure a lightbulb under the block would do much. And at the moment there isnt the room to get it inside.

When I lived near Ottawa, Canada I put one of those magnetic oil pan heaters on the engine oil pan and another on the bottom of the rear end.
Plus a 60 watt light bulb between the carb and the battery.
Then draped a heavy real canvas tarp over the entire 127.

I find it is easier to start with closed throttle,
and a fully charged battery.

Another thing you could do,I have heard of farmers doing this years ago is take the battery in the house with you at night.

Great suggestion Brian. I also run about .5 oz. of HEET to a gallon of gasoline. Only do this if you have a copper or lined fuel line, as it will dry out a standard rubber fuel line.

Cub Cadet 123

Thinner oil and a larger battery is all I can figure out on mine! Thinking about synthetic oil next time but not sure about it on such an old engine

All of the above are good suggestions, when I was a kid there was an old man who used to call me sometimes to put a large, square, flat pan of hot ashes and coals from his coal stove, under the engine of his truck on cold mornings to help get it started.

As long as you don't risk a fire, anything you can do to get heat to the engine and trans-axle will surly help.

Using jumper cables from your car/truck will also keep the battery from running down when trying to start a cold Cub.

Good luck.

Here's a possible solution. I use a larger version (500 watts) on my boat's diesels. But this is a 50 watt version for small engines. Stick this on the oil pan, plug it in.

https://www.wolverineheater.com/product-p/4.5.htm

they have battery and transaxle versions as well.

I to have to slow cranking blues. My method is I put the throttle up to high. Then I crank the engine a few times and each time it gets more "free". Then I crank the engine open the choke for a revolution or two, close it and release the key and usually I have got her running. Then I immediately bring her Down to an idle and let her warm up for 5-10 min
It seems she is very easy to flood in cold weather. That oil pan heater...does that really work and how would it help the starting issue?

looks like a good idea for easier starting but I think id price one out at a local parts store first. I think you should be able to get one quite a bit cheaper than that.

maybe we should also be polling to see what weight oil we are all running in winter. I used to run straight 30wt year round but that doesn't work AT ALL in the cold. now I'm running 10w30 in winter and wondering about synthetic or lighter oil yet as it still seems thick at cold temps.

iirc the owners manual states for temps below 30 you should run 10w30 and over should be 30 weight. Personally I run synthetic in mine and couldn't be happier.

Although oil and cold temps are a factor here, if the starter doesn't crank very fast I'd be looking at the battery, S/G and the wiring. Yeah, they're hard to start cold.... but a gas motor really should start. If you keep it outside, a lower viscosity oil is a good idea, but I'd be surprised if it makes it spin easier. The K series doesn't have an oil pump, remember? It's not like there is cold oil that has to be pumped, or is being pumped into the engine bearings. I really think there are other issues. Could even be timing, and carb settings. I'd suggest a good look-see of the starting system and a thorough tuning.

I thought it said 5w-30 but maybe I'm wrong? Either way I to run straight 30 at - Rotella specifically.

Not to contradict your fine judgement as you def know your stuff but I think it is a combination of the battery and the oil. I run rotella straight 30 as you recommended to me and my tractor as of November has a new battery and a new porch electric wiring harness and when it's cold she does crank really slow...but after a few revolutions she frees up a bit

http://m.autozone.com/autozone-mobil...-26lg?id=21121The hydro tractors can be a pain to start in the cold cuz of the cold thick fluid the engine oil I dont think plays as much as a roll in it. Maybe this would help with the rearend

I had issues with mine starting last year when it was cold (the 147). I bought the biggest CCA that TSC sold (higher than a lot of other batts. but I forget off hand what the CCA is) and I put it on a maintainer when I am anticipating needing it the next day, usually overnight. I also run 10W 30 conventional oil. It sits in an unheated garage. Knock on wood I've not had any issues with it starting yet. If she won't turn over well in the future I'm going to put on a rear end magnetic heater.

That is very accurate. :beerchug:

Yes! Once I start mine, I immediately open the choke just enough to make the black smoke disappear. About a minute or so, slowly open the throttle.

I've used the Wolverine heaters in the past on my truck and they work ok. Good for the engine with warm oil, but still took a long time to thaw out the antifreeze and warm up the interior. Biggest issue with our CC's is finding a spot to install them. Unfortunately, the only real estate that's big enough on the oil pan is directly over the axle so the engine would need to be pulled to get properly installed.

Today I resorted to holding up my propane torch to the carb inlet and let the engine pull in the hot air (being careful not to set the tractor on fire). This trick along with a jumper cable to my running truck got my 1450 running. Once that one was running, I used it to pullstart my 100 as I can't get the S/G to turn the engine over in the cold.

My cubs are in an unheated barn. I point a salamander heater at the one i'm going to use for about 10 minutes and it will fire right up. It also helps warm up the hydro fluid. It was below 0 this morning and once I started it, the hydro and lift were ready to go.

This sounds like a "hold my beer and watch this" moment.
:beerchug:

I use the seasonal recommendation for crankcase engine oil found in the Operator's Manual . This way I don't second guess myself worrying if the lighter weight crankcase engine oil will thin out too much once the engine temperature maxis out.

Today, I was enthused when the 71 kicked off in the 4* cold weather. I set the choke just under 1/2, and the engine stays running to warm up. I never hold the key switch past 30 seconds for the engine to fire. Has always started faithfully on the third or fourth crank revolution. I would suspect that the cold is what slows down a engine turning over, especially if it is bigger than the 161 Kohler.

Think heat tape would work for keeping your hydro drive transmissions warm. Wrap it around under there, and plug in at night?

Mark,..... boy that's a way to heat up a cold engine. Sounds like something out of a 1930 Popular Mechanic's Cold Weather Tips and Tricks. I have one, by the way.

You guys ought to be back to the future in a darn-right hurry using open flame and burning coals. Hats off to you. :bigeyes:

Magnet heater
 

I have used heaters that have a magnet, about 300 watts, place one on the bottom of the engine oil pan and on the steel differential cover at the lowest point. They are a less fire hazard than using an open flame and burning down the building. Small gas leak and boom. In my 45 years of fire fighting have witnessed this happen too many times.

-27 below yesterday, +38 and raining today, tomorrow -13 degrees and 50 MPH wind.

My normally easy to start 125 required the torpedo heater on it to get going this morning. It was about 10* when I started clearing snow with 30+ mph gusts.

I kept myself nice and warm by dressing warmly and wearing my full face motorcycle helmet. No heat loss thru my head so I stayed comfy :beerchug:

Well I killed the 126 battery yesterday. It was 2 degrees out and went to do the driveway and after about 6 revolutions it was done...so I jumped it and it fired up fine after that. Def think a battery heater or oil heater would be worth the money buy as stated earlier there is a problem installing the oil heater?

-16 and my started, slow cranking but she took off. that is if I remember to have the throttle on and the gas on.

lol

Since we are talking about keeping the oil warm, what about a heated dipstick?. I was thinking about looking into one of those. I know they make them for the big trucks, but I dont know how small they get.

The best thing I have found is using a battery tender/float charger it keeps the battery warm and topped off. But I imagine that using a heater would make an unbelievable difference (so long as you are keeping it out of the wind)

Using a pan heater would work way better than a dipstick heater. A dipstick heater does not have the contact surface area to evenly warm the oil.

Do you clutch when starting the 126? Only turning over the engine vs. the engine and the whole rear end is better.

the op is about QL hydrostats (1450 and 1650)

The heated dipsticks work well in the hydro's tranny,just remove the fill plug and stick it in there,if I put it in the oil dipstick hole the oil is not deep enough and it will smoke.
btdt.
Btw my 125 sits in an unheated lean to and starts everytime and the battery is 3 years old. It is a sears diehard gold.
Started today in 5°full choke and half throttle .
That stack goes woof woof

Yes - there's a safety switch that will not allow the engine to crank without the clutch being depressed

So then the consensus is a battery tender is better than an oil heater? Would the oil pan heater help reduce the slow cranking?

Since the engine is a splash-lube engine, I would think a pressure-lube engine would be harder to start. I say the battery is the weaker link between the two variables.

Part of the issue might be gas. Had to empty the carb bowl on the standalone snowblower - a block of ice in there.

BUT - sounds like consensus is to warm the hydro, and/or the block/carb/engine. Putting it inside would do most of those things

:ThumbsUp::ThumbsUp::ThumbsUp::ThumbsUp:

My 122 started when it was 8 degrees the other morning with just the battery but I had to disengage the clutch to get enough revs to spin the engine. I have a solar maintainer on the battery all the time and use 10-30 oil in the winter along with 93 octane gas.I feel premium fuel helps them fire off better in cold temps,could be wrong though.

I would think that IMO; 3 issues would be most viable.

1. Temp. & effect in reducing the power in cranking in your battery. No matter what if it sits in 0-deg., power voltage is reduced in cranking.

2. Oil that is thicker than corn syrup because of freezing temp's.

3. Moisture in gas because of ethanol (?) left standing it starts condensation.

Thats why I use Startron & Synthetic oil-10/30/30weight.

Bringing in a battery for warmth will help 10 Fold.

Having fluid oil for cranking will be a plus in starting. Take a cup of synthetic oil & leave it outside in 0-deg. & it stays fluid, does NOT start gelling like regular oil.

Nik,

Nik,

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/b...ps8d73832e.jpg

10w-30/sae 30 amsoil in the 105
 

Nik; Found,and use the same Amsoil small engine oil in the 105 with great results.