My 982D build
 

Hi everybody. I just wanted to show off some of my recent work, and make a build thread of my latest project. I haven't been a member for very long, but I have been a lurker for some time now, and thought I'd finally share my project with you fine people. As for me, my name is Cory and I am an industrial maintenance technician, at an aluminum die casting facility, owned by MTD. They are our parent, parent company, and I work on Buhler-Prince vertical squeeze cast machines that make a sunstrand look like a log splitter. Anyways, here it is:

I have been into these Cubs for a little while and have always wanted a diesel super. I almost got one a year ago, but the seller got cold feet and the sale fell through. Shortly after that I bought a 1512, and after correcting a few of the P.O.'s fixes, changing filters and fluids, and some basic maintenance things, I used it to mow the yard all last summer with the 50C deck it had come with. The non working hour meter read 12XX hours, and it came with an XMW 3 point, among some other goodies that were sold to offset the cost of the tractor.

A couple of months ago, I picked up an early 2082 for cheap. It had dropped a cylinder, and every piece of plastic was broken, but it had less than 500 hours and came with a 60" Haban deck. The solution became very clear to me, time for my 982D build, so it has begun.

So far, I have gone through most everything, and the plan is to build something that will last me 30+ years. I doubt it will see more than mowing duty, so I don't think that is too far of a stretch. I owe a lot to this forum, and to Sam Mac, who has helped me out with some good ideas through his posts, and with a few parts. I hope to have it done in the next couple of weekes, so I can move on to my 123 project.

I painted the frame with Rustoleum's tractor and implement enamel, and plan on using it for the tins, as well. It is still a little soft, after a few weeks, but I did a few coats. I did not take it down to bare steel, leaving the original paint as a primer. Some of the yellow is showing in a few pics, but that has been addressed.

The front axle was cleaned up, and since the 2082 had low hours, the bushings were in good shape. The heims were not, so they were replaced with some high strength PTFE lined rod ends, from McMaster-Carr. They aren't cheap, but they should last a while.

The orbital valve and cylinder were in great shape, so I extended the column and reused these items, as well. I extended the column with a drilled out 1/2" black pipe coupling, and TIG welded it to the stock valve and a cut-off shaft, donated by the 1512. It also donated a section of it's tube, and that was also TIG welded, using a section of 1.625 OD exhaust tube. I know the stock super's column is longer, but I made this to fit me, and this length is what I found to be the most comfortable.

The rear axle had a leaking seal, so I tore it down, and drilled the case, so the axles can drain back, gave it a thorough cleaning, inside and out, and replaced both axle seals, along with the axle, pump to case, and pump gaskets, as well as all O-rings. I still need a dipstick tube, since the GT's is too short, and the 2082's is too long. I installed it, along with Sam's/XMW's axle brace kit, and will be running a 2000 series driveshaft. Everything in the driveline will be brand new, and should last a little while. I'm still in need of the fan brace, since I don't like how much play is in the fan. Cub should have done this, but I suppose those few extra cents would break the bank. I have also attached the linkage, and have everything shimmed up and used the same PTFE lined ends for the rod. I will need to adjust it to find neutral, but other than that, it's ready.

The brakes got new springs and a very nice, non-riveted set of pads. I have them adjusted, and ready to go.

The tower was painted, and I used an NOS dash. I had to drill the third gauge hole, remove the diesel throttle plaque, and attach it to the new one. I also reused the gauge mount, and painted it the same color as what the engine will be painted, since the chrome was faded. The gauges were sourced from eBay, and can be found by searching for Farmall gauges. They are back lit, and I have used them in the past, with good success. I'm using a voltmeter, water temp, and oil pressure gauge, and I will be making my own wiring harness. For those with a sharp eye, I know the fuses shouldn't be there, and I'm not sure if I'll be using them in my custom harness, but I think it looks better with them there. I will also be using the 82 series steering wheel, with the IH cap, just not that one. I have one that's a tad nicer.

I went through the dual spool valve, replacing the O-rings, but I haven't decided to run it, or a Greene 3 spool valve, and add another cylinder for the rear lift. I can make my own hoses, and will be bending my own hard lines, so I am not limited by anything other than practicality and budget. The lift bar was originally for a super, I cut it down for the GT, and had to weld the cut-off piece back on, for those wondering why it looks like it does. Like I said, this tractor will be used primarily for mowing, but I built my Trac Vac for a Cat 0, and one day I might get a ZTR, so...

As I said, the engine will be painted a charcoal metallic color, and I will be replacing most of the accessories, gaskets, and seals. I already have most of the stuff, and will be doing the glow plug mod, and adding a gear reduction starter. I'm going to go ahead and bite the bullet and order all four motor mounts, since two of mine need replaced, unless someone has a cheaper alternative. I could not find any Kubota specific ones that looked similar. I also THINK I have found a new source for a BRAND NEW upper radiator hose, and will share the details, if it is a match. It looks just like the Cub NLA one! I haven't sourced the insulation yet, so I'm open to ideas. My lower hose is in great shape, since it was likely replaced when the coolant heater was installed, so I'll probably reuse that. The PTO is pretty much brand new, and cost me less than $60! So far, I haven't found anything alarming with the engine, but I haven't done a compression check yet. The rockers didn't require much adjustment, and nothing leads me to believe something is wrong or worn out internally, just some external things showing wear, a few leaks, and some hokey PO stuff like no thermostat and a zip tied air cleaner, due to a broken $8 mounting bracket, to name a few.

The fuel tank was cleaned up, and all bushings, shut-off valve, and gauge is new. I also bought a 25' roll of Goodyear 5/16" fuel hose from Summit Racing, so the fuel lines will be replaced, as well as all filters. I found a tank from a super, but the brackets were long gone, so I'm reusing everything from the 1512, and spacing it up with 1" x 1" square tubing. Is that right? I think it is just a 1" difference, but as I'm typing this, I am starting to wonder.

I plan on running Tru Powers and V61's, loaded and capped with some chrome non-IH hub caps I have. I also have a cool headlight upgrade to share, but not until I get the grill shell painted, assembled, and installed. I also have two sets of decals, one for a 1772, and one for a 982, and will see if a local shop can make my 982D hood decals, as well as a set of 982-4 hood decals, for a future project involving two Case 200 series axles I have.

Well, that's as far as I have got, and I will try to update regularly. I know I'll end up with a lot more money in this than what a 1572 costs, but mine will have the ball bearing axles, 2000 series driveline, red paint and IH emblems/decals, a few custom goodies, and most everything upgraded and/or new. I sold it to her by pricing a new comparable Greene, and then orange tractor. She decided it's better this way. I just hope it will last the 30+ years of mowing I am looking forward to.

Any questions, comments, advice, criticism?

http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/a...1&d=1388119047

You are making nice progress Cory! Looking forward to more pics and updates!:beerchug:

Very COOL build! Wish I knew you were going to extend the steering column Woodward makes a coupling that fits the shaft for the valve.

very nice write up. keep us updated and good luck with the build!

Great job on the build! Please keep the updates and pics coming!

nice progress, keep the pics coming:beerchug:

Sweet a Big Red Smoker No. 2 It's looking great.

I don't own the BRS anymore, but it is close by.

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/b...D/DSC02295.jpg

Thanks guys, I'll do my best with updates. You did tell me about Woodward's coupler, Sam, but I had already drilled the black pipe, and thought I'd save $20. As you can see, I already spent that and some. I think that would be the way to go, along with exhaust band clamps, if a guy ever wanted to easily change the length, or swap out valves. DWayne, I've seen your 982D, and it was the inspiration for mine, along with another. I'd like to see a registry for the 982D, just to see how many there are out there. It's a shame they (CCC) never built one.

Here are some fun facts that I've uncovered: not only were there a bunch of different tunnel covers for the wide and spread frame GT's, there are four different ones for the SGT's. Patton got me fixed up, so no worries there.
If I were to add a separate cylinder for the rear lift, how should I do it? I searched and found squat. Suggestions? I am thinking in frame, with a skinny wide frame cylinder. I'll have to check the cylinder's stroke. Also, am I right about the 1" fender height difference? Okay, you guys get me some answers as I get back to the bat cave. Thanks.

Can't wait to see it finished. :beerchug:

Same here! :beerchug:

I haven't done it yet, but I'd like to separate my rear and front lifts. I think you would be disappointed if you use one small cylinder. It isn't very big= less lifting power. As a matter of fact, even if you use 2 it's still not as much surface area as the short fat one. I haven't measured, but I think you can get the bigger one in. If not, I'd try and find 2, 2" cylinders. At 2" bore, using 2, that would get you just a little more lifting capacity than the single 2.5" bore.

Nice write up Cory. You said the pictures made it look better than it really is. After seeing it person I have to say, it looks super nice and no short-cuts. You're do'n a heck of a nice job. That will be something you'll be able to pass on to you're kids.

Looks like a lot of work going on there it should be well worth it in the end. No reason why you wont be able to get a good long life out of her properly maintained. The heim joints that you used do you have a part number I'd like to check them out for my tractor.

GOOD NEWS! I have sourced a brand new upper radiator hose for our 82 series diesels (782D, 882, 1512, 1572, 1772). It is for a Kubota RTV 500, and the Kubota part number is K7311-85150. There is a bell end on it that will need to be trimmed off, but other than that, it is as close to a match as you're probably ever gonna find. Now I need to figure out a good replacement for the insulation.

60745K461 is the McMaster part number for the power steering rod ends. They are 1/2-20, and the tie rods take the same, or you can use the ones with a threaded stud. They also use 3/8-24, and the hydrostat control linkage uses 5/16-24, in both RH and LH threads. They have a bunch of different flavors, at different prices, but these are what I went with, since they're sealed and super strong.

I've decided not to go with a separate lift cylinder, since I have no practical reason for it and there is no quick and easy way to add one. The skinny one would work, with a rock shaft, but the stroke is too long for direct coupling. There is not enough room to direct couple the larger one, so a rock shaft would need to be used with that one, as well. As for the differences in piston surface areas, the skinny one would move faster, and would have less lifting capability, but the leverage gained from the rock shaft would make up for it.

Good to hear!:beerchug:

Great news! :ThumbsUp:

Thanks for the update Cory.

Cory, for the insulation on the hose I use what we use in the HVAC trade. It is called Armaflex and comes in many sizes, split and un-split. I use the un-split and slide over as long of a piece I can. If you can't find any, pm me your address and I will send you a piece.

Thanks for the info on the heim joints Cory. As far as the separate lift for the rear I used a electric lift on my 1863. I plan on using it for with a front and rear blade for leveling gravel or what ever. Or I can use the rear blade for small jobs without taking the deck off. Its kinda handy.

Time for updates! The big brown truck brought me some 3/8 hydraulic line, ferrules, and nuts, so I got my lines bent up and installed. They're not as pretty as MTD's, but they will do the job. I also sat the freshly painted engine in, on the old mounts, and the dipstick tube was extended with an adapter, since the 2082's was way too tall. I'm going to do some more tonight and tomorrow, but now I'm waiting on the new motor mounts and a large Kubota parts order, among other things.

http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/a...1&d=1388971670

Looking good!:beerchug: Brown truck good!

What Mike said!

What they said! X3

Looking great! :beerchug:

J-mech I separated my front and rear hydraulics on my 1782. I bought a used cylinder like the one it comes with added a valve in the dash, and plumbed it. The added cylinder is mounted directly to the rock shaft in the back. I cut a hole in the frame rail in the back to allow cylinder room and made a box out in the frame with a piece of quarter inch wall square tube with end caps . The setup works great . Though it took time to figure it all out I'm really glad I did it

Looks good:beerchug:

Nothing like a good build project and getting to build them how you want them to be with all the goodies that make you happy.Great job.

Look'n good Cory...:beerchug: Hot coco with marshmallows

Too nice CTRUEX! Really coming together! A complete transformation.

ccguy
Western MA

Thanks guys!!

Yes, hot cocoa was definitely needed today, with near record double digit lows.

I have now painted everything engine related, including the radiator and shroud. I spent a good hour straightening the fins on that, since it looked like the cooling fan might have made contact with it at least once. I found my trusty 90* pick, aka o-ring tool, did a good job on opening the fins back up. Honestly, I would have just bought a new one, but they are EXPENSIVE!

I have to go back to my daytime job tomorrow, so work will cease for the next two days, but that's okay, because I'm still waiting on a few much needed orders from CC and Kubota to arrive. I hope to start on the tins Thursday, and should have the driveshaft welded up and installed by then.

Now a question for you diesel heads: I bought a Kubota glow plug timer kit off of eBay, for $13 (part number 15694-65990). It matches the 1772's, and comes with the lamp and wiring connectors. Is there any advantage to using this over the calibrated key-turning hand? If nothing else, I'll just use the lamp, instead of the oil lamp, which I was going to use for a glow plug lamp.

Looking good Cory! We will hit +6* for the low tonight, it hasn't been that cold here since 1996.:angry:

I don't think I would use the timer for the GP's. I just removed one off of the 1772 I have in the shop now. I also don't like how they run all that amperage through the switch from the draw the plugs pull so I did the GP upgrade. I also run a wire from one of the GP's to an LED in the dash so I know the plugs are getting power. This is the first D640 I've upgraded and I don't see any difference in the plugs from a D600. I'm installing a 3 gauge kit also but I'm going to keep the oil light.

I'd say winter is definitely here!

I had planned on using a solenoid, whether I use the timer, or not. I guess I should ask: how does the timer work, and is it reliable, and does it perform well? Does anyone have a schematic for the timer's internals? Does it need to see a load? I doubt I'll ever sell this tractor, or have anyone else sit on it, but I've decided to keep the neutral safety switch, and I'm trying to make it as fool proof and ergonomic as possible. Like I said, if nothing else, I'll get a new glow plug lamp out of this deal, and now I'm thinking about a T fitting so I can also keep the oil pressure "dummy" light.

on my 1782 I took the wire that ran to the glow plugs, and made it trigger a ford solenoid, so the glow plugs actually get 12volts now, they were getting 9V. the glow plug timer still works the same, so I don't think it senses the load. not sure if its the same on yours or not, but it starts Much better now! Also the dash light for glow plugs still works.

Now we're getting somewhere. I see the ignition switch is the same, so do you still turn the key switch to the left? I assume the purpose of the timer is to control how long the glow plugs are activated, and it must do this based on ambient temperature. ??? Is there a thermostat in the module? Is it generally "spot on", or does the cycle need to be repeated again? It sounds like this may be a good way to keep from counting. I always have trouble with that, letting go of the key to count on my right hand when I get to six. :biggrin2: I'll be using a starter solenoid from a 1650 that I parted, along with the newer NGK plugs, but it will work the same way yours does, and yes, the timers are the same.

On mine the timer was wired in parallel to the plugs and does not see the current. I'm thinking they did this so people would keep the plugs energized long enough to start.

Here is a good link for Orange tractor stuff, lots of good info here.
http://www.orangetractortalks.com/20...ators-manuals/

Great work and an excellent idea. I've been keeping an eye or craiglist for a Super with this same type of project with my 882.

Okay, I feel a bit silly now. :bash2: I think I have a better understanding of this, since reading the owner's manual of the 1772 and looking at the wiring diagram for the 1782 (couldn't find one for the 1772, I have asked Roland for it). What you guys are saying also makes more sense to me. It seems the timer is not "smart", and only lights the lamp after a fixed amount of time. The cycle needs to be repeated a second time in cold temps, per the owner's manual. So...I was a bit off in my assumption of how it works. I suppose it is no different than the set up originally installed on the other diesels, like my 1512, just a lamp instead of the coil, with the advantage of less amp draw, but no indication of the plugs getting power, until the lamp lights. A LED wired in parallel would show power going to the plugs, but I would still need to count, and the voltmeter should also indicate the plugs heating. I think I will end up installing the timer and lamp. On the off chance I'd let someone else use her, I could just say "turn the key backwards until the red light comes on, and then start it", instead of :BlahBlah:. Ergonomics! Thanks to everyone for their help on this subject, I promise we'll get back to making progress later today. Spoiler alert: I got the new driveshaft shortened and welded, and Sam's fan support should be showing up today.

There is no diagram of the timer for the 1772 in the 772-9085a schematic manual I think it was a field fix because on mine it doesn't look like it was done at the factory. I would think that there is a service bulletin out there somewhere.

This is all I found.

http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/a...1&d=1389283728


The 1782's diagram shows the #50 terminal on the key switch, the starter solenoid trigger, going to both the solenoid and the timer module. I'm not sure why, perhaps it is what turns the lamp off? Does this sound right? Hopefully the kit will arrive soon. I do plan on drawing a diagram before building my harness, for ease of making the harness, and so nobody goes gray trying to figure out an electrical problem in the future.