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1772 PTO clutch not staying engaged
Read a lot but have not found anything that points to my issue here. And with the snow we now have it needs addressed. I have a 1772, the clutch engagement for the snow blower, mower deck ect only stays engaged in the start position, not in the run. I had to clear the driveway with the switch pressed in the start position and the extra draw killed the battery even though it was running. I have replaced the switch and the relay with no change. The seat switch has been disengaged for 5 years so I do not think that's the issue. This summer this happened sporadically but now its all the time. Im running out of ideas. Any help guys?
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All the start position does is bypass the seat and reverse switches and when released there is a holding circuit that keeps it in until the seat, reverse or switch is turned off. There should not be any extra current that way. Diesels have a small charging system to start with and if the tractor charges at full throttle and discharges when the pto is engaged then I'm thinking your pto is causing the extra current draw and probably starting to fail. If you can, use an ohn meter and check the resistence of the pto and lets us know what it is. Welcome to OCC and congrats on one of the most sought after Cub Cadets.
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(A) There is a Charging System issue. (B) There is a weak (or bad) battery (C) There is some sort of electrical short in the PTO circuit (D) There is an issue with the PTO itself. As far as the PTO not staying engaged, in addition to the previous suggestions, the "Reverse Relay" could also be suspect. |
Thanks for the quick response. I do love this tractor. Iv owned it for 8 years now. I had one of those Home depot 27hp cubs for a week when I found this 1772 for sale up the road at a Kubota Dealer. needless to say I put the home depot one for sale in the front yard that day. Its got the 60" deck, 45" blower and the power angle plow. Plus the snow cab.
Anyway I believe the clutch tested 2.7 ohms does that sound right? I can shoot a video if that helps at all. Its got a new battery and regulator in the last couple months as well. The safety shut offs are wired to the #5 prong in the relay on the left side below the battery. Would not unplugging that eliminate all safety functions? I thought I read somewhere the seat sensor is a normal closed switch, so unplugging that #5 plug on the relay would leave that loop open correct? Wiring is not my forte, cant you tell? I'll change motors and rebuild trannies all day, but wiring just don't sink in this head lol Where is the reverse relay located? btw |
Andy, once the relay is engaged by pushing the switch up to the start position the only thing that will open the relay (and shut the pto off) is the normallyt closed reverse switch (opens when shifter is moved to reverse by the little micro switch you can see in the shifter slot) or the seat switch that is closed when you are sitting in the seat. I just checked the pto on my 1772 and it looks like it is around 4 ohms. I'm thinking your pto is starting to fail. If you have a good meter you can see how many amps it is pulling.
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In order for the Reverse Relay to stay energized (for PTO operation) the hydro lever has to be in neutral or forward positions AND someone has to be sitting in the seat. |
Okay, I just tested mine and it pulls 4.35 amps.
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If that all checks out I wonder if the ignition switch could be the problem because it powers the switch and relay. I would unplug the pto and power it up with a jumper with no attachments hooked up. If that all works it may be time to call Kubota for a new ignition switch.
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I have a NOS coil somewhere. I will try and find it and see what a new one reads (ohms). Worse case you get a motor shop to rewind the coil.
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My reverse switch has never worked since owning this tractor so I would imagine it is disabled as well. But I will check the micro switch in the dash to be safe. One thing I found strange in just tinkering this afternoon is this acted the same with the relay on the left side below the battery not even plugged in. So what's de that tell you?
You guys are a plethora of information, I really do appreciate it. |
Maybe this will help. This is from the Factory Wiring Diagram. It is color correct, enhanced, and simplified.
The 1772 PTO Circuit..... http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w...b.png~original |
1 Attachment(s)
Ahh color coded schematics, now your talking :) I will do some more digging tonight, thanks
Pictures are always good so here is one. I'v got a Cozy Cab for it as well, I just have not put it on yet due to working on this. |
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Good looking super smoker!
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1 - Applying power to the clutch 2 - Applying power to the one side of the relay coil through the safety switches. When you release the clutch switch, it is up to the loop created with the seat switch and rev switch to keep power on the relay coil and thus keep the relay engaged. With the clutch sw held in the start position, I would check and see what you have on BOTH relay coil terminals, should be 12V and ground. If that's not there, follow the wiring to see where you loose the 12 volts through the safety's that keep it engaged. If the safety's are jumped out, check for a good connection. I had safety's that were jumped out and were getting brown in color causing intermittent clutch engagement as well. |
Lots of great info, thanks guys. Have not got back at it with christmas here and all, playing with my kids toys is more fun that working on the tratcor I'm afriad. :)
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Well an afternoon of tinkering I made some headway. Thanks to the snazzy wiring diagram above I was able to bypass the seat and the reverse lockoutouts for the PTO clutch (which have not worked the entire time I have owned this anyway) I doing so the clutch now stays engaged properly but I still have a draw on the system. With the clutch off the system is charging at 12.3v and when the clutch is engaged it pulls it down to 11.9v. I started looking for signs of damage in any wiring and I discovered my plug for the Voltage regulator on the tractor side is melted between 2 of the 3 connections in the top row. does anyone have a part number for the plug by chance? The plug is the connector to the plug shown below.
http://i.ebayimg.com/t/Regulator-Rec...W2G!~~60_1.JPG |
Maybe you could replace both plugs with something like this.
http://www.americanautowire.com/shop...FXPNOgod31wAqA Other option would be to check with a Kubota dealer, I think that is a Kubota part. You may also be able to get one from the sponsors at the top of the page from a 2182 or 1782 that they have parted out |
That happened on my 882 also. I cut the plug out and spliced it.
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According to the parts list I have the 1772 uses a KB-RP201-53710 regulator. http://www.m-and-d.com has them for $ 87.90. You could try ePay as well or go with the repair that Sam mentioned and just replace the connectors.
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