When do you upgrade your clutch?
 

I'm going to rebuild the clutch in both my 108 and 73 this winter. My question is this to you kind folks, should I look into upgrading any area of these clutches when I have them off? I read all the time how crazy strong these tractors are so I'm wondering if I really need to beef anything up? I'm not going to be entering any pulling contest anytime soon but will have a cart on these pulling some weight or plowing some deep snow. I guess what has me worried is at the end of the day the tractor moves because of one or two little spiral pins. I mean if you think about it that's kind of wacky. I see some of these with stacked rears plowing big snow and that has to be a lot of stress on the little pins connecting up the clutch. Am I just completely off base here? I don't really have a boat load of time so I just want to get these running and play HAHA

A stock clutch is fine, as long as your not tractor pulling with it. It will handle anything you throw at it. The reason the pullers have to beef it up is because they are running anywhere from 30-100HP through the clutch usually at 4000RPM or more. Stick with stock, it'll be fine. :beerchug:

Great that's what I wanted to hear! I have more then enough places to put money into these things so if I can spare some I'm happy :)

I had questioned the same topic about my gear drive garden tractor, once. A problem with a bigger pressure spring, is that now you have added pressure on other clutch components, like the release lever twisting resulting in a prematurely worn throw out bearing. It has been said, operating the clutch/brake pedal is rather a inconvenience as well. The factory main spring has worked just fine in my 71. I have pulled a 2,000 pound yard roller with no slip at all. Maybe a new pilot bushing, teaser spring, clutch disk, true pressure plates, spiral pins, and throw out bearing depending on the condition of the system. The release lever should be inspected for wear as well.

OK cool. That was really my idea then. I had planned to get the plates re-faced, some new discs and depending on what I find replace anything that seems questionable. Heck if you can pull that kind of weight then I'm more then set. I just thought that if I had these apart and there was something simple to upgrade I would but it seems like I'm going to be fine with stock. Very cool indeed :)

Whenever I go into a clutch, I generally replace everything but the shaft and the plates, assuming they are in OK shape. If the tractor's been in regular use most of it's life, the pressure plates should be OK. If it sat outside for years, they may be rusted and need to be surfaced or replaced. Otherwise, spirol pins, throwout, teaser, spacer, shaft bushing, friction disk, all get replaced. I've always used stock parts. The stock clutch will spin tires with chains in dirt and dig a hole before the clutch slips. At least that's my experience. If it's a later model (like my 1000) there is also a flex disk at the reduction gear that needs to be addressed.

The clutch on my 121 was junk so I just bought a complete clutch and shaft from Mid West Super Cub. Had them set it up like stocker. Works good, I'm a happy camper.

I agree with the others, stock is the way to go. It'll spin on pavement with chains and weights under heavy load, its pushed/pulled everything I've thrown at it and kept coming back for more. Good luck! :beerchug:

Never heard of them but that's a nice quality piece of engineering right there! What did that set you back if you don't mind me asking?

You can check here too. http://www.zkbrmachine.com/
I'd at least run the Kevlar disc if it was me.

Let me know is you need help...you have my #

Why spend the money on a Kevlar..... :bigthink: No need. It's not a puller.

How much is a stock disc? A new Kevlar disc is $30. A new stock disc is $45. Don't automatically assume it is more expensive if it is a pulling part. One pulling vendor has probably sold more clutch parts in the last year than Cub Cadet has in the last three years.

I didn't assume it was more expensive because it was a puller clutch. I build and use Kevlar clutches in other applications, and they are more expensive. I admit, I didn't compare price for the cub clutch. Just based it off what I buy. Still, Kevlar isn't as forgiving about its use. I.E. they don't like oil, and at least the ones I use don't tend to have as smooth of engagement as an organic clutch.

The Kevlar disk is only $30. probably less than MTD gets for a stock disk. I make my driveshafts out of 5/8 4140 prehard which is what Midwest use's. its actually pretty cheap compared to MTD price's

Jon

The Kevlar one I have is smooth as silk. My guess is because the spring is set for stock type use rather than puller use. I'm happy with it but I don't run it all that much. :bigthink:

There is more surface area on the Kevlar discs compared to the stock disc. I like the way they work better than stock. The hole in the middle is less than half the diameter of the one on the stock disc. With the center spring I feel like it gives you more control.

I'm glad to hear all this! Like I stated, I assumed the price. I really like the Kevlar clutches I put in all other applications. We use it for various reasons. The Kevlar tends to be much smoother than ceramic, but wont take slip like organic. Glad that so many have good things to say! I had no idea there would be so many in non pulling uses. With all what you guys are saying I believe the next one I get will be Kevlar!

That's for all this great info! I really had no idea there where so many different types of materials used for these disks. Since I have to buy new ones I might give these kevlar ones a shot. Seem to be getting some great feedback. That being said, is there a grade of kevlar material that I should ask/look for to be used in a non-puller? All my tractors will be used for common home use. I might have them pull some heavy loads, but that's about it. One thing that I was looking to work out is the why these tractors kind of jump once you put them into gear and pull off the clutch. With hydros you can kind of ease into it. The only way I can see doing that with a gear style is riding the clutch which is not a great idea. I read that metal disks are out there but they are quite unforgiving when it comes to this. Is kevlar going to give me whiplash when I take my foot off the pedal? Again, since I have to buy new ones anyway I might as well ask some questions ahead of time and get the right ones. Thank you all :)

Thanks Lew :)

There is only one type of Kevlar disc to my knowledge. You should be able to slip it a good deal but without the extended release arm clutch control is more difficult.

I've never had a issue with bone stock clutch in good shape even beating on it

Wow thats some game of tug-o-war!

Ok im pretty sure at this point stock is going to be just fine :-)

It is easy to spin tires-put the tractor to work.

Put a set of ag tires on, add 100 to 150 pounds and them hook a moldboard plow on it. Them go plow some Northwest Ohio soil. This soil will make a tractor that can pull a 5 bottom plow be lucky to pull a 4 bottom plow.

You will have clutch slipage with a stock spring. I'm using a spring from a New Holland/AGCO cultivator. It is a 500 pound rated spring. Stock spring is 200 to 250 pounds. You will have to use a spacer between the driveshaft and inside the spring. Part number for spring is PECP1511A1 (New Holland) and EP1511 (AGCO) . Because of the spring length the spring has to be cut into 2 pieces....you get 2 springs out of it.

Cub Cadet Classics sell a blue spring that has the same tension as my cultivator spring set up. My clutch set up has been my hop up 100 for 4 years.

I aslo use a kevlar clutch disc because the price and it has less slippage.

I aslo replace all the pins and bushing in the clutch driver. I will use a split collar instead of a pin to hols the main spring in place. THe hole in the driveshaft makes a weak spot in the driveshaft.

My clutch set up may be overkill.....I prefer to build it once and not be afraid to push the limits.

My Uncle Dick topic has a clutch rebuild section in it.

Yea that pic was taken after the work had been done loaded tires with about 3 psi in them pulling a 125 with 3 of the four wheels locked up I just started to have fun at that point. I havnt had it slip the clutch yet that day was 3rd gear 3/4 throttle I ran out of traction or engine before anything